Brake line/pad install

[gaw]

Have an '03 busa.

Thinking of installing new stainless steel lines, both front and rear, also clutch line, and pads.

What specific tools do I need?
Do I need to remove front wheel?
How difficult is it to bleed and re-fill lines?
I have heli-bars, do I need to get longer lines, both brake and clutch?

Thanks

gary

 

[Glyn]

Sounds like good mods,

You'll  need a socket for the banjo bolts, a wrench for the bleeders, ( remove or lift the tank for the clutch line) some hose for the used fluid to drain into a container. ( coffee can or something) maybe pliers to lift the tabs on the swingarm pinching the stock line in place.

Drain old fluid, ( don't get any on your paint, makes a great paint remover ).
Remove lines and pads. ( should be able to leave wheels on, a stand helps though)
Compress pistons a little into calipers to fit new pads over discs ( again, don't spill brake fluid)
Install new pads, with a little dab of grease on the points of contact with the calipers ( NOT ON THE PAD CONTACT AREA OR BRAKE DISK!!!!!!!!)
Install new lines USING NEW CRUSH WASHERS. These are one time use only, so dont tighten them until you are sure of your brake line positioning!
Final adjust line positions,
Tighten everything up
BLEED CAREFULLY and repeat bleeding until you have no air in the system ( a pair of extra hands can help with this)
Break in new pads gently at first, then increasing pressure and heat. Let them "bed in"

Use new fluid, and check very carefully for leaks.


Happy stopping!




( yes, I know, it is not as good as BT's posts, but you should get the idea)

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[bacharles]

Yeah, what Glyn said for the most part. I find it real easy to do the bike while on the stands. If you've got a rear stand, then the rear brake pads can be changed by just lying yourself on the ground and pulling the little black dust cover off and removing the pads. If you have a front stand, then I find it easier to just remove the front wheel and I don't have any tight areas to work in. You don't necessarily have to remove the front wheel, but it makes it easier and more accessible with the front wheel off. And as far as the heli bars are concerned, YES!, you definitely need to make sure the lines are at least 3 inches longer than stock for the front brake and clutch lines. What you need to be concerned about is the main brake line that goes to the right caliper because the distance with the heli bars installed will give you more distance between the caliper and master cylinder. The crossover line distance to the left caliper will still be the same. Use the same frame of reference when it comes to the clutch line. I think 3" longer than stock should be pretty good. The idea is not to get too much. You don't want to leave the possibility of the lines kinking or possibly getting hung up on something. That's my .02, so take it for what it's worth.


Brian

 

[GMbusa]

It's easy to do, just watch what your doing and don't go overboard on tightening the banjo fittings.