Brake and Clutch Lines Removal Aftermarket Lines Installation

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Brake and Clutch Lines Removal
Aftermarket Lines Installation

Stainless steel braided lines supposedly do not flex as much as old rubber lines do. This maintains brake pressure and prevents brake fade. In my experience, I have not noticed a bit of difference in braking performance by changing to high performance lines. There is not a great deal of weight loss to be had by upgrading lines either. Unless combined with other brake upgrades, stainless steel lines are mainly for appearance, in my opinion.
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The idea behind routing your lines is to avoid situations that will cause abrasion. Rout the new lines so there will be as close to 0 contact against any moving or vibrating parts as possible. Aftermarket lines are quite stiff but there are a few points where the lines should be anchored to be certain that they do not catch on anything. Rubber lined metal clamps can be purchased at Home Depot in the hardware drawers. 1/4 inch clamps work well for Stainless steel lines.
lineclampswgt.jpg


Aftermarket brake line fittings usually have a finish on them. The finish may be protected from scratching during installation by lining sockets and wrenches with a layer of electrical tape.

Aftermarket lines may have aluminum banjo bolts that are light weight but far inferior in strength to the OEM banjo bolts. Care should be taken to not over-tighten aluminum banjo bolts. Galfer recommends torquing aluminum banjo bolts to a maximum of 12-15 foot pounds. Stainless steel banjo bolts are recommended to be torqued to a maximum of 17-20 foot pounds. I have found 15 foot pounds to work well to seal the gaskets with stainless steel banjo bolts. When Tightening aluminum banjo bolts, I would suggest torquing no more than 10 foot pounds to avoid stripping the threads. Aluminum banjo bolts must be observed closely for leaks and snugged up a little if necessary.

Brake fluid can be harmful to painted or unfinished metal and plastic. Take precautions to avoid contact with anything outside of the brake system. Always wipe up drips and wash thoroughly with water soon afterward.

When removing the old lines, you will want to hold the the fitting low after removal to drain the excess fluid. Hold the fittings high to contain any last drips inside the hose while removing the line.

The fairings, horn and triple tree guard have been removed in the photos that follow.

The fender may be covered with plastic to protect it from brake fluid drips.

Drain the front brake system completely of fluid (see GenII Front and Rear Brake Fluid, Clutch Fluid Bleed/Drain concluding paragraphs and steps 1-8).

Place the bike on a rear stand so that remaining fluid will run out vertically.


Tools:
electrical tape
drip pan
12mm wrench
8mm wrench
rag
3mm hex tool
10mm wrench
flat screwdriver
zipties
ziptie mounting plates
14mm socket
torque wrench
new brake fluid
14mm wrench
adhesive backed foam weather stripping

Front Brake Line Removal
1. Place a drip pan under the right front brake caliper. Remove banjo bolt and three washers from the banjo fitting using a 12mm wrench. A small amount of fluid will drain.
rmvbanjobolt.jpg


The banjo bolt and washers are arranged as shown. Bolt hex/washer/fitting/washer/fitting/washer/to caliper housing.
rtbanjoorder.jpg


2. Repeat step 1 to remove the banjo fitting from the left front brake caliper. a small
amount of fluid will drain.
lftbnjoorder.jpg


The banjo bolt for the left front caliper is arranged as shown. Brake caliper housing to/washer/banjo fitting/washer/banjo bolt hex.
leftbanjoorder.jpg


3. Use an 8mm wrench to remove the screw that fastens the front brake line retainer to
the fork clamps.
hosertnrtpltree.jpg


4. Use a 12mm wrench to remove the banjo bolt and two washers from the front brake
master cylinder. There should be no fluid that will drain but it is wise to put a rag under the fitting just in case.
MCbajobolt.jpg


5. Using a 3mm hex wrench, remove the three bolts marked with a red dots. (the rear
bolt that fastens the rock guard may be left on). Allow the fender to sit loose on top of the front tire.
ffendrbolts.jpg


6. Locate the brake line retainer on the right side of the fender.
hosertnebrakt.jpg


Remove the brake line retainer using a 10mm wrench placed on the hex head of the screw which is located on the inside of the fender.
10mm4hoseretainwer.jpg


This is an opposite side view of the hose retainer with the screw.
tpsdbrklnscrw.jpg


7. Use a flat screwdriver to remove the plastic ring hose retainer from the top back of
the fender. This type of retainer is designed so that only half of the plug which fastens it can fit through the hole in the fender it is fastened to. Place the screwdriver blade inside the fender and press one half of the fastener inward while pressing it up through the hole in the fender at the same time.
tpbrklnrtrrmldetail.jpg


This photo shows how the top break line retainer fastener plug is configured.

Aftermarket Front Break line Installation
I used Galfer Brake lines. Other brands may have a slightly different design. Before starting, make sure the aftermarket banjo bolts thread smoothly into the master cylinder and calipers. If they do not, you may wish to thread the bolts through a nut of the proper thread pitch (I found that one or two of my banjo bolts had threads that were a little rough, possibly from the anodizing process).

8. Assemble the double banjo bolt, three washers and front brake line banjo fittings as
shown. Note Galfer marks the ends of the brake lines that connect to the master cylinder with labels. The fitting closest to the master cylinder is straight and the fitting closest to the bolt hex is curved twelve degrees.
bnjowshrftngsqnc.jpg


9. Loosely thread the banjo bolt into the master cylinder.
frbrkmcbanjos.jpg


10. Assemble the right caliper fitting as shown with a washer on either side.
lwrbanjsorder.jpg


11. Loosely thread the banjo bolt into the right caliper. Repeat step 10 for the fitting to the left front brake caliper.
threadbanjofr.jpg


12. Snug up all three front brake banjo bolts finger tight so that they can be moved but will still stay put by themselves. Position the brake line fittings so that the lines are free and do not contact any other parts.

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The right fitting will be best situated so that it butts against the stop molded into the right caliper housing. I would actually like to angle the fitting outward more if it was possible so that the line was held farther from the fender.

lftlineftgangle.jpg

Angling the left fitting outward keeps the hose away from the fender and it also makes the brake line somewhat more visible for aesthetic purposes.

routfrbrkmcJPG.jpg

Angling the lines from the master cylinder as shown worked best for me because I have the triple tree cover and horn removed permanently. If these parts are not removed from the bike, the lines will probably have to touch somewhere.

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The lines do not touch the dash, throttle cables or steering damper.

rtlnfndrclrnce.jpg

The lines are also free of the forks and fender on the right.

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The left line also clears the fork and fender.

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Galfer has a special vinyl protective sleeve over the lines where they are likely to touch the triple tree.

frbrklinefsnrs.jpg

The Galfer kit also includes a brake line retainer that mounts to the triple tree where the OEM brake line retainer was located. I did not use the Galfer retainer for my setup but I made my own out of zipties and a ziptie mounting plate.

13. If any fairings or meter panel pieces were removed, install them. Turn the steering from lock to lock to test for brake line clearance. It is optimum that the brake lines do not touch anything throughout the entire steering radius. However, it should be noted that the OEM throttle cables touch the lower meter panel when the steering is turned hard to the left (at least they do on my GenII). There has been no recall to correct that. If the aftermarket lines touch a little bit in a turn or if they gently rest against the horn, I think that is probably okay. If they are binding or abrading, obviously their position will need to be adjusted somehow.

14. When acceptable brake line clearance is achieved, use a 14mm socket and torque wrench all 3 front brake line banjo bolts according to the brake line manufacturers specifications. Fill the front brake system with new brake fluid and bleed it thoroughly of air (see GenII Front and Rear Brake Fluid, Clutch Fluid Bleed/Drain, steps steps 1-12 and the final remarks under Draining Brake and Clutch Fluid).

Rear Brake Line Removal
Drain the rear brake system of all fluid (see GenII Front and Rear Brake Fluid, Clutch Fluid Bleed/Drain, steps 13-21 and the concluding remarks on Draining Brake and Clutch Fluid ).

15. Use an 8mm wrench to remove the rear brake line retainer from the swing arm.
Rbrklnrtnr.jpg


16. Use a 12mm wrench to remove the banjo bolt from the rear brake master cylinder.
Wrap a rag around the fitting while removing the banjo bolt so that no fluid runs on painted surfaces surrounding the rear master cylinder.
MCbnjormv.jpg


17. Use a 12mm wrench to remove the banjo bolt from the rear brake caliper. Remove
the rear brake line.
rmvrrclprbnjo.jpg


Aftermarket Rear Brake Line Install
18. Arrange the banjo bolt with one washer on each side of the fitting that will go to the rear brake master cylinder. Be sure that the bolt you use has the proper thread. The rear brake master cylinder on the Hayabusa has finer thread than the rear brake caliper.
brkswtchordr.jpg

You may use a rear brake light pressure switch as shown in this picture rather than a banjo bolt. The pressure switch and washers are placed the same as would an ordinary banjo bolt.

19. Connect the the rear brake line to the rear brake master cylinder using a 14mm wrench to tighten the aftermarket banjo bolt. Install the fitting so that the stem is between the stops on the back of the master cylinder.
rrMCbnjotq.jpg


20. Arrange the rear brake caliper banjo bolt with a washer on each side of the fitting. Be sure that you are using the banjo bolt with the larger thread which is specifically for the Hayabusa rear brake caliper. Install the fitting to the rear brake caliper so that the stem is between the stops on the caliper housing.
clprbnjoordr.jpg


21. Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench both rear brake banjo bolts according to the brake line manufacturers specifications. If a rear brake light pressure switch is used on the master cylinder, it will not be possible to use a torque wrench on it. You will have to estimate the torque and use an ordinary wrench. Fill the front brake system with new brake fluid and bleed it thoroughly of air (see GenII Front and Rear Brake Fluid, Clutch Fluid Bleed/Drain, steps steps 1-12 and the final remarks under Draining Brake and Clutch Fluid).
rrbnjotq.jpg


Clutch Line Removal
Drain all fluid from the clutch system (See GenII Front and Rear Brake Fluid, Clutch Fluid Bleed/Drain, steps 22-32 and concluding remarks on Draining Brake and Clutch Fluid).

22. Place a drip pan under the clutch slave cylinder.
P1100509.jpg


23. Use a 12mm wrench to loosen the banjo bolt on the clutch slave cylinder. Allow any remaining clutch fluid to drain out.
P1100508.jpg


The banjo bolts, gaskets and the brake line fitting are properly arranged as shown with one gasket on each side of the fitting.
P1100511.jpg


24. Use a 10mm wrench to remove the clutch line retainer from the frame.
P1100512.jpg


The clutch line retainer comes off of the rubber grommet on the solid portion of the clutch line.
P1100513.jpg


25. Use a 12mm wrench to remove the banjo bolt from the clutch master cylinder.
P1100517.jpg


26. There is a second clutch line retainer located on the exterior of the steering pivot above the triple tree. Use a 10mm wrench to remove it and then remove the clutch line.
P1100520.jpg
 
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After Market Clutch Line Installation
27. The aftermarket gaskets, banjo bolt and banjo fitting to the clutch master cylinder are arrange as shown with a gasket on both sides of the fitting. Thread the banjo bolt into the master cylinder finger tight.
cltchmcbanjo.jpg


28. Route the clutch line to the clutch slave cylinder as shown.
linesleft-1.jpg


clchMCBanjo.jpg

Master cylinder to frame.

trpltreeholdwn.jpg

I used the location of the OEM clutch line retainer above the triple tree to fasten a retainer made of a zip tie mount. A small zip tie was used to hold the clutch line in place.

TcblsTrpltree.jpg

A second zip tie was placed around the throttle cables and the clutch line.

clchlinefastners.jpg

A small piece of adhesive backed foam weather stripping was placed in the metal bracket that the OEM solid portion of the clutch line is retained in. The bracket was used to hold the aftermarket line.

The Clutch line was then routed on the inside of the frame and down to the clutch slave cylinder.

28. The banjo bolt, gaskets and fitting to the clutch slave cylinder are arranged as shown below. One gasket is placed on each side of the clutch line fitting. Thread the banjo bolt into the clutch slave cylinder finger tight.
bnjoordrclutch.jpg


29. Make sure that the fitting on each end of the line is routed as you want it. Turn the steering from lock to lock and make sure the line does not bind or catch on anything. Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten each banjo bolt according to the clutch line manufacturer’s specification.
cltchslvlinedtl.jpg


tqbanjobolt.jpg


linesMCfttgs-1.jpg

Installed front brake and clutch lines

Weight Comparison

OEMbrklinwgt.jpg

OEM rear brake line and hardware, 5.60 oz.

rrbrkwgt.jpg

Galfer rear brake line, rear brake light pressure sensor switch and hardware, 3.80 oz

Rcalbnjowgt.jpg

One Galfer stainless steel rear banjo bolt and gaskets and weighs .55 oz

Rbrkswtchwgt.jpg

A rear brake light pressure switch and gaskets weighs 1.00 oz.

My rear Galfer brake setup with rear brake light pressure switch nets a 1.80 oz weight savings compare to OEM.


oemclchlnwght.jpg

The OEM clutch line and harware weighs 6.80 oz.

galferclchwght.jpg

The Galfer clutch line along with the zip ties and mounting plate weighs 5.85 oz.

A .95 oz weight reduction compared to the OEM clutch line.

oembrklnwght.jpg

OEM front brake lines and hardware, 11.75 oz.

frontglfrlineswhgtJPG.jpg

Galfer front brake lines, 8.65 oz.

brklnrtnrgalfr.jpg

Galfer front brake line retainer, .25 oz.

zptimnt4clchln.jpg

Ziptie mount and ties, .05 oz.

Weight reduction with Galfer front brake lines and zipties compared to OEM front brake lines, 3.30 oz.

Weight reduction with OEM front and rear brake lines and OEM clutch line replaced with Galfer lines + rear brake light pressure sensor switch and zip ties, 6.05 oz
 
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Replacing a fairly new, stock, brake line with an aftermarket might not show a lot of difference in performance. It could also be that a person is not using the brakes hard enough to notice the difference. Guys using their bikes at the track, or for people with older bikes, the lines are DEFINITELY an upgrade, for more than just asthetics
 
Must admit, I have only 4K miles on the busa so the OEM lines are prolly plenty firm to maintain pressure. I do not max brake often enough to tell the dif perhaps but have had the back tire squirm or lift at least twice both with and without the brake line upgrade. The OEM brakes on the GenII are just fine IMHO. They get it done. Yes, you can squeeze the lever to the grip but for me that was never necessary.
 
Excellent write up and thanks for the effort. SS lines are a popular upgrade and this will help many DIY orgsters! I have to take exception however to your contention that SS lines don't improve the brakes as it is my experience that it is a big difference in brake feel, if not absolute power. The truth is that stock Busas have enough power for street use but the feel is greatly lacking. SS lines helps significantly in feel and a radial MC even more. Also for those of you out there wanting better brakes, a properly setup suspension will improve braking as much as anything. As for the clutch, this is IMHO not a useful upgrade for typical street riding. I definitely don't think weight is of any importance in the decision to go SS. Still, good work on the how to, wish more people take time to post stuff like this:thumbsup:
 
Yeah when I first got my Gen1 I bled them out and put in new fluid, they still felt spongy. I then added EBC HH pads, Speigler SS lines and Braking Wave Rotors, better but still not the improvement I thought. Put in a new master cylinder rebuild thinking it might do the trick, still wasnt feeling confident. Wasnt untill I installed a Brembo MC and Brembo calipers did I notice a leaps and bounds difference in my braking capability :thumbsup: So I can see how you might have an opinion towards SS lines not being effective. However I think if your looking for that stop on a dime capability with a bike the size of a busa your gonna have to do more than just SS lines. Not to say they wont contribute towards your braking but couldnt hurt either :whistle:
 
As for the clutch, this is IMHO not a useful upgrade for typical street riding.
I would agree. It does not seem as though the clutch system creates nearly as much pressure as the brake system. I'm sure the OEM rubber lines are just as effective as SS. The SS clutch line is just to complete the look. Go with a second color on the clutch to add a little more bling.

I then added EBC HH pads, Speigler SS lines and Braking Wave Rotors HAve been waiting since July on my Galfer wave rotor for the rear wheel of my ZX-14. Have EBC HH sintered pads on that bike and they a little better feel for track riding. Fine for street. I also have a Spiegler clutch line on that bike. Spiegler is almost identical to Galfer and Spiegler has that nifty (even if not very well explained) line grabber for twisting the banjo fittings for perfect alignment. I think MAYBE you can do that banjo twist on any line regardless of brand but I never tried. Hate to twist and braek a banjo if the line was not designed to turn like the Spiegler lines are. ....Anyway, a slightly out of flush fit with banjo to master cylinder is no big deal once you get the bolt threaded...it will tighten up flush as anything.

I really like my Goodridge brake lines I have on my 14. They are a bit thinner and the banjo bolts are very light weight aluminum. Going to Goodridge lines will actually create a significant weight loss. The Goodridge rear brake line for the ZX-14 (which is a lot longer than it is on the busa) with banjo and washers weighs 2.15 oz. By switching front and rear lines to Goodridge, I saved 1 and a quarter pounds on the 14. Goodridge does not make a clutch line AFAIK.

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The Goodridge stuff is pretty good. I actually am a Speigler fan over the Galfer and don't try twisting the Galfers :whistle: I think people are used to good sport bike brakes and get on the Busa and they are surprised by both the weight of the bike and the fact that it does not have brakes that are competition ready. You can stop a Busa but it takes a hand full of lever and all 4 fingers. I'm going Brembo as soon as I can use just 2 fingers and stop on a dime.
 
You can stop a Busa but it takes a hand full of lever and all 4 fingers. I'm going Brembo as soon as I can use just 2 fingers and stop on a dime.

Yes you are right about that! I even went as far as installing a shorty lever after I did the Brembo conversion, no more than 2 fingers are needed to stop her whenever I want to. Initially I was concerned about using the full lever after feeling how hard those calipers bite, didnt want to get overzealous and grab a hand full of brake too fast so with the shorty the "less is more" approach did the trick :whistle:
 
You see the biggest difference between the lines when your on the track. The reason is on the track your always using your brakes to there full potential and this causes the fluid to heat up. When that happens the factory rubber lines will expand and you lose alot of your braking force in the line expanding instead of closing the caliper. Stainless lines make it so the line can not expand when the fluid gets hot making a big difference. I mean I have seen a couple videos of cars and bikes on the track that the fluid gets to boiling temps.
 
WC, dadofthree.

on the track your always using your brakes to there full potential and this causes the fluid to heat up. When that happens the factory rubber lines will expand and you lose alot of your braking force in the line expanding instead of closing the caliper.

Thanks for that detailed explanaition, bdb. It never occurred to me that fluid temp would affect the resilience of OEM lines. Makes total sense.

On that point, I had no problems with the Goodridge kevlar lines at the couple track days I have attended. The kevlar has no steel braided reinforcement but it would take quite a lot of heat before it softened up. Not as much as steel though. I really can't say how kevlar compares to SS in that regard. I can tell you I locked the front wheel in an emergency braking track situation (went off in the grass--no fall, thank God) with the kevlars. I was doing ~70mph after a few hot laps. That was with the 14 but still goes to show the kevlar prolly handles high temp pretty good and also is light weight.
 
You see the biggest difference between the lines when your on the track. The reason is on the track your always using your brakes to there full potential and this causes the fluid to heat up. When that happens the factory rubber lines will expand and you lose alot of your braking force in the line expanding instead of closing the caliper. Stainless lines make it so the line can not expand when the fluid gets hot making a big difference. I mean I have seen a couple videos of cars and bikes on the track that the fluid gets to boiling temps.

+1, even a hot day makes a difference in how stock lines feel...spongey and fading.
 
Great write-up!!

But IMO, when it comes to SS lines, they are all pretty much the same. Anything is better than OEM.
Since i've installed SS lines on my bikes (Gafler & CoreMoto), i only use 1 or 2 fingers to brake.

For street use, SS lines, pads and fluid can make the world of difference.
Track use: SS lines, fluid, pads, and MC is the way to go.

Again, kick ass write up!!

Almost forgot, another good habit is to clean the pistons. During the summer months, i usually do this once a month. I remove the pads from the caliper and get an old toothbrush and hot soap & water. Give the inside of the caliper and the pistons a through cleaning. Dry it off with compressed air and re-install everything.
 
I went to the best pads I could fine and noticed a little difference. I changed the fluid and it was a night and day difference. I saw someone on here that said he changed his every oil change and I thought he was crazy but now I see the light. I'm only going to do mine every winter now
 
Thanks, fellas. You are very welcome newman. Thank you for your kind words.

Is fluid a factor? I know so many people who have not changed fluid in bikes that are 5 years old!! Is there a superior fluid?


Like what was said before, fresh fluid is a night n day difference.

I usually use the Valvoline that i find at AutoZone.

As for changing brake fluid every oil change, if you change your oil once a year, cool. Or if you race on a regular basis, then i understand. But for street riding, that's a waste of $$$. I do mine once a year.
 
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