Bov and turbo questions

I live an hour away from new orleans. I have heard good things about johnny and was considering taking the bike there. The place i was set on is stedman motorsports ive hear they do good work and would set the fmu and do a small check over. I also had a rich condition which could have made the plugs "wet". I brought to a local shop and the basically "handed me a tool" lol, i am new to turbos and did a good bit of research and found out that that a motor can go boom easily if not tuned correctly. I just sent my begi off to be converted to the new valve design. I have heard that the shim can be broken. Im thinking the Scavenge pump will cure those issues as ive heard its cured others peoples compressor drip issues like mine. Ive seen race bikes with a scavenge system so i figure it couldnt hurt right?
My bike isnt a race bike but i will be doing upgrades down the road,
 
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You said that you had some oil on your spark plugs. I advise you to keep a check on those plugs because if the oil keeps getting on your plugs then you could have burnt as piston. The turbo will not put oil in the combustion chamber. So double check that before you start buying other stuff that could be the main problem

The plugs were "wet". I ssumed it was oil since the turbo has a slight drip out the compressor. I also had a rich condition which could have contributed to the plugs being wet. When starting up it will smoke a bit and has a little blow by, when warmed up no blow by or smoke when warme up, i only seen smoke once when warmed up and i ran it hard for a few seconds and a puff of amoke came out when i let off. Wheb yousay a turbo cannot put oil into the combustion chamber do you mean directly? I have checked the drain line for kinks and i cannot find any. I know thats a common factor for leaky turbos. I think the oil is back flowing back into the turbo since it is below the oil level sight glass. Ive read that most of the time when a turbo seal is out it will smoke continually. I will post a update when i get everything together. Thanks for all the help i really appreciate it.
 
One good way to check to turbo is to loosen up the fitting at the bottom of the turbo. There should be two bolts holding it on if oil comes out right away then the oil is sitting in there from the oil level in the engine. If you don't get any oil leakage the the seals in the turbo are bad. I just recently replaced the seals, bearings, and shim in my turbo and what a relief it is now. I got the upgrade seal kit from G-pop Shop.
 
Jay Stedman knows turbos I bout one of his kits. Conrad Long and I just got our bikes tuned by him about three weeks ago you should definitely go to Stedman motorsports. Tell jay that Richard Jackson said some good things about his work. Good luck
 
One good way to check to turbo is to loosen up the fitting at the bottom of the turbo. There should be two bolts holding it on if oil comes out right away then the oil is sitting in there from the oil level in the engine. If you don't get any oil leakage the the seals in the turbo are bad. I just recently replaced the seals, bearings, and shim in my turbo and what a relief it is now. I got the upgrade seal kit from G-pop Shop.

I loosened the oil return line fitting from the bottom of the turbo (had two bolts) and oil immediately came flowing out the return line. I was surprised how much oil actually came out. I am going to be buying a Bigcc scavenge pump Friday and I have heard this has solved similar issues, I'm thinking that should do the trick. I have a ITS turbocharger (innovative turbo systems) but I cannot seem to find any info on it. I've heard they are out of business. I will be pulling turbo off to fix a exhaust leak i will checks for any numbers to tell me what kinda turbo it is so I can do a rebuild. I have looked with it on and no luck. I was having some surging issues and killing on me. Is your bike for turbo charged or n/a? How long did yours take to tune?
 
I have a SRP Stage 1 Turbo kit. I have a Gen1. Its got a ECU tune and it took about 35 mins to tune but it wasn't that far off and also jay Stedman knows turbos. He will get it right and get it safe.
 
Do yo run a pc? I was told to get a pc5 with a 3 bar map. I will try to get that before the tune. Does your bike run like stock? Do you run a scavenge pump?
 
I do not run a PC and it runs like stock and no I don't need or run a scavenge pump. The ECU tune is the best way to go. My bike is also a street bike and I ride it a lot. Also my gas mileage is a little bit better than a stock bike even though I have almost 300 HP lol...
 
Just got back from the tuner and got some bad news, the turbo is bad. Time to start looking for turbos. Thanks everyone for help.
 
I talked with Jay Stedman last week and he told me that they are using turbonetics turbos now and they are suppose to spool up faster than the t3t4s I didn't get a price on it though
 
I talked with Jay Stedman last week and he told me that they are using turbonetics turbos now and they are suppose to spool up faster than the t3t4s I didn't get a price on it though

Ive heard that turbonetics were good turbos. Im in between garrett and turbonetics. Im trieng to figure out if i want a journal bearing or ball bearing. I know the bb turbos need a little more tlc, not sure if its worth the 1200 or so bucks though. Jay is a good guy and explained a few things to me and checked my bike out. Great experience i will go back. I might get in touch with him on a price for a turbonetics installed. Just hard cuz i line 10hrs away and installing a kit takes time.
 
You shouldn't need a whole kit. If you need anything extra it will probably be a header. And that shouldn't take no more than an hour or two for an experience technition
 
Try Comp turbo in CA , there is one of the ITS guys there and they can rebuild yours if needed

Not unusal to have the oil level at the turbo , if you use a rear stand or park with the front down its not uncommon to get some smoke on startup, the turbo seal is not a positive seal like a water pump, its a piston ring type and if you have oil against it with the shaft not rotating it will seep into the turbo at either end
 
Try Comp turbo in CA , there is one of the ITS guys there and they can rebuild yours if needed

Not unusal to have the oil level at the turbo , if you use a rear stand or park with the front down its not uncommon to get some smoke on startup, the turbo seal is not a positive seal like a water pump, its a piston ring type and if you have oil against it with the shaft not rotating it will seep into the turbo at either end

I will check comp turbo for a turbo rebuild. I'm not sure why I said kit I meant the turbo unit itself. I do not put the bike on a rear stand or with the front down. I will get a scavenge pump with check valves to try and stop the leaking on start up.
 
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