Boosted Cycle Performance wiring solutions

Boosted Cycle Perf

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Its no secret that our bikes are plagued by two issues. Weak cooling systems, and weak charging, and electrical systems. Weather its adding more horsepower, or going crazy with all the high tech electronics and lights put un-needed strees on an already weak electrical system.

Realizing this "shortcoming", and being an electrician by trade, 7 years ago I came up with a unique solution, and to this day its still running and working today on my shop bike. My current set up includes voltage sucking HIDs, a Bosch 044 fuel pump, water pump for the ultra plenum, microtech secondary fuel controller, data logger, electronic gauges, and and AMS-1000 boost controller. This system has allowed my to put over 20k miles without ever having starting or charging issues, even in the last 3 years in the hot summer Texas heat.

This system as been since been implemented on most of my costumers turbo builds. Essentially what this system does is take all those current, and voltage consuming electronics, and rerouting them so when they're operating at they're peak power consumption, all that electrical load gets channeled to the battery instead of being sucked through the small gauged factory wiring that most modify just to get things to work.

The last few years Ive been asked if this is a kit I can sell, but it has always been something that's custom to each bike. Well again recently with more interest building Ive decided to move forward and make a plug and play kit. I have prototypes started for two types. Ones for full blown turbo bikes, and the others for guys that want to run lights, stereos, charge phones, gps ect.

While the pictures posted are of custom installs, the systems I have in prototype are scaled down to one panel you mount on the subframe with the relays, and power block. Most of the connections are plug and play, youll just need to run the wires to the new power block.

So the long story short is, is this something you guys would like to see come in to production? Im just a one man crew, so im looking to gauge weather this is something you guys could use.
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Lastly the over all benefit of this system is typically higher, more constant voltage voltage for your hids, fuel pump (which means steady pressure) water pump, boost controllers, stereos ect. This takes the strain off the alternator (or generator as some call it) and allows it to charge at a steady rate while allowing maximum power when needed. If you've ever experienced ignition breaking up, slow start ups after sprinted rides, dim lights, or low fuel pressure at idle, this will help fix those issues.
Thanks guys! I know it's probably hard to grasp how I can make that a plug and play system, but it's based off my very first design that's still in use on my personal bike.

I'm very surprised how many pm's I've gotten looking for these kits, so it's something I think I'll move forward on. They won't be done for Christmas busa1, otherwise I'd hook you guys up!
Holiday Group Buy perhaps.....:whistle:

I agree here. I just spent 3 days cleaning up all the CRAP the previous owner of my bike had. My undertail doesn't look as pretty, but she is close. Lol

I am TOTALY in for one of these set ups as long as the price isn't out f this world. Lol
Why would you package be better then this one? FUZEBLOCKS.COM

Simple. That block that you show has a constant power side, and a switched side. So for items like the fuel, high beam, water pump, would be constantly running as soon as you turn the key on. Where as my system the ecu still primes the fuel pump, before start, and then turns it back on as soon as the engine is running. You also have full control of the high beam from the regular handlebar switch. With the box you posted, if you wired your high beams through it, you would have to add an additional switch somewhere to turn it on. Same thing goes if you have a second fan wired to it, you would still need to add a switch otherwise it would be constantly running once the bikes turned on.

The other issue I see is it will only accept up to 12 gauge wire. On my systems, fuel pump always gets 10 gauge wires to ensure the best possible current flow.
Whats the cost of your kit going to be? roughly any idea?

I'm still working out what cost would be, as the kit will use oem type plugs to interface for the headlights, and fuel pump, as well as I'm sourcing smaller relays, and terminal boards that will be up to the task.

This picture is of the very first system I made on my personal bike. I didn't get crazy and used crimp on connectors just because I didn't want to have a ton of time in to it if it didn't work as I planned. But it's been great, and worked flawlessly for 20k miles, and 7 years of abuse.


The kit will come with everything mounted to a plate that bolts to your factory sub frame like the one shown. But the configuration goes as follows in that pic. The left 3 terminals are switched positives, the center 2 are constant positives, and the right 3 are negatives. Even though there is only 3 switched terminals, you can double up 2 connectors on the top row, and add one additional on the bottom row, so that's a total of 9 switched outlets in a clean, and easily accessible location. There's also a fuse block that goes on that panel too.

If I had to toss out a number, for just the simple hid/headlight/accessory version of the harness would be around $200. And the turbo/race harness would be about $300. But that's just tossing a number out.