bleeding Gen2 Brembo Brakes (ABS)

el stumpo

Registered
so I want to bleed the brakes on a 2013 ABS. As you can see from the picture, it looks like the bleeder valve faces inside the wheel. Is there an easy way to get to the valve? I usually use a mitivac - suggestions? Anything to know about it being ABS?

Thanks

2013-Suzuki-Hayabusa-brembo brake.jpg
 
If you really must do it then unbolt the calipers and use an old brake pad or similar thickness plate between the caliper pads to simulate the discs....then bleed as normal.
The dealer I go to uses a reverse pump system and manages to do it with the calipers in place but ends up with hands ripped to bits.
 
Pete, why are you bleeding the brakes?

Fluid is a bit discolored and on Gen1, it was a piece of cake. So I wanted to do this. Likewise want to change the clutch fluid.

Rear brake has too much play in it - from what I've read on the board, maybe the dealer didn't know what they were doing when they did the ABS recall :/
 
If you really must do it then unbolt the calipers and use an old brake pad or similar thickness plate between the caliper pads to simulate the discs....then bleed as normal.
The dealer I go to uses a reverse pump system and manages to do it with the calipers in place but ends up with hands ripped to bits.

That's not a bad idea - I have an old brake rotor I could use, although I won't be pumping the brakes. Gotta love the mitivac!
 
Best of luck Peter. Don't ask me how many times I've changed the fluid in the '08 :whistle:
 
Can someone post details of how to bleed the ABS Brembo system? Heard you require to connect the system to the computer to effectively bleed...
 
Bleeding a ABS system is not very different from non ABS . Key things to remember . Keep anything magnetic away from ABS pick up sensors at the wheels .
Be glad its not a linked Honda Brake system . That is no fun . FYI brake fluid absorbs water = corrosion to braking system . If its changing color its breaking down .


Enjoy reading at your leisure. Most automotive professionals agree that glycol-based brake fluid, (DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5.1) should be flushed, or changed, every 1–2 years under non-racing conditions.

Brake Fluid
 
If you vacuum bleed there is no need to put anything between the pads when you remove the caliper. Just did one Sunday as a matter of facts. No computer or any tricks. Just a mighty vac.
 
el stumpo I have the same problem and searching for an updated service manual for the ABS part with no luck up till now , please let me know if you figure this out
 
If they are that much of a PITA to get to, why not replace the Banjo Bolt with a banjo Bleeder? I just did this at my master cylinder (Double Bleeder bolt) to assure myself I was getting all the air out at the high point. I sleep better now!

LighTech Anodized Banjo Bolts - Nissin Single Banjo Bolt with Bleeder - OPPRACING Products

That looks like the best suggestion in this thread! Bleeding from the highest point of the caliper and no clearance issues at all.

Looks like everyone with ABS sensor equipped busa's should get a pair of Banjo bolts w/built in bleeders to bleed and flush the front brake lines.
 
If they are that much of a PITA to get to, why not replace the Banjo Bolt with a banjo Bleeder? I just did this at my master cylinder (Double Bleeder bolt) to assure myself I was getting all the air out at the high point. I sleep better now!

LighTech Anodized Banjo Bolts - Nissin Single Banjo Bolt with Bleeder - OPPRACING Products

This sounds interesting, but does it pick up the fluid from the calipers? Or is it just to remove air? I can't see it picking up fluid from the calipers when the master cylinder is right there...
 
I believe the poster above was suggesting to install a banjo bolt w/built in bleeder, on the caliper.
 
I believe the poster above was suggesting to install a banjo bolt w/built in bleeder, on the caliper.

Not sure as he says "I just did this at my master cylinder" and "assure myself I was getting all the air out at the high point." But maybe I just misunderstood.
 
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