Bike Tie Downs

fallenarch

THE SLOW RIDER
Registered
I was trying to figure out how to trailer the bike without putting pressure on the suspension. This is what I came up with, what do you think? I bought a TrackSide wheel chock at Cyclegear for $69. I will screw this down to the trailer. Then I got a 1/2" threaded rod from Home Depot and some cargo hooks. This goes through the rear axle to tie the bike down without adding pressure on the suspension. I put the bike on a Uhaul trailer in an attempt to go to the fall bash and it was pretty secure. Unfortunately the trailer had bad bearings and we didn't make it. I added PVC spacers on each side to get the hooks away from the bike. You can pull the straps as tight as you want as it is not putting pressure on the shock. Total cost was about $75.

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That's along the same line as these. If you haven't seen a Pit Bull in person they are the last stand you'll ever need. Bullet proof.

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Yup! I have three Pitbull stands and they are indestructible. But the trailer one is great if you own the trailer! Looking at a trailer too but not sure the GMC Arcadia will pull too much. The load capacity on it is only 5000 lbs!
 
Arch, you're Acadia would definitely pull a small enclosed trailer, and for sure an open trailer... A 6x12 is probably only in the 1500 lb range empty..

I just so happen to have one of those pit bull stands for sale in the classifieds that's just perfect for you :)
 
Save it for when you can...It's the trailer capital of the world down in south GA. I don't know how all the different manufacturers ended up down there, but there are lots of them to choose from.
 
Without weight on the suspension, the bike pogo's up and down and can flat spot
the bearings on long hauls.
 
What? I've got tens of thousands of miles hauling with the pit bulls...I don't know what you are talking about...flat spotting bearings?

Without weight on the suspension, the bike pogo's up and down and can flat spot
the bearings on long hauls.
 
The bike is sitting on the suspension with full weight. What are you talking about?
 
Without weight on the suspension, the bike pogo's up and down and can flat spot
the bearings on long hauls.

Going to have to call BS on that one! Sorry Buddy. The bike is actually more stable because the unsprung weight is tied down to the trailer and the sprung weight is free to bounce up and down on the suspension as it would if you were riding the bike. When you tie the bike down and tighten the tie straps you reduce the suspension movement. Also, if there is still movement in the suspension the bike will loosen up the tie downs eventually.
 
arch, pretty cool and inventive approach! :thumbsup: However, I would be concerned that tie downs so low have poor leverage against the bike "wanting" to move around as opposed to tie downs attached to the bike at a higher point, and this may cause a potential issue if you hit a really bad bump or a pothole on the road. To compensate for such deficiency, you have to tighten tie downs harder to achieve a few times more force than you would ordinarily achieve with regular approach. So, use properly rated tie downs. Notice that in case of using Pit Bull stand in similar way, the role of tie downs is performed by metal tubes - a lot stronger and non-stretchable material.

I wouldn't be concerned about the suspension when utilizing traditional method to tie the bike down - just don't over tighten the tie downs. Half way through suspension travel is OK. Bad things happen when people ratchet it up and completely compress the suspension. I have many thousands of miles on the trailer, and never a problem with suspension.

Neat approach nevertheless! Probably quicker than with regular tie downs, too.

Also, consider extra tie downs to cover 'single point of failure' scenario. You don't want to be wondering doing highway speed, possibly in the dark - what's going on with your bike. Also, the white tubes on either side of the rods - if they are plastic, try to replace with metal.

Also, I would use another washer along with a locking washer between the hook and the nut: hook, then washer, then locking washer, and then nut.

Is the tie down goes straight down (ideal scenario), or away from the hook?

Really cool idea! I should think about it.
 
I actually talked to a certified Ohlins service rep and he confirmed that putting that pressure on the seals for long periods was a bad idea as it can damage fork internals. I have actually known this for some time as I can recall people blowing out fork seals just transporting a dirt bike to our local track (about a 1-2 hour drive) when I was younger. I see so many people ignoring this I sort of thought it was BS, until I confirmed it with an Ohlins technician. The bike was remarkably stable. I can't say it was as secure from a tip over as it would be with regular ties, but it was more than stable enough for a trailer ride. I think the Pitbull solution is much more stable however and is the better way to go if you can afford it or if you have your own trailer.

I have seen on this forum damage to the handle bars of a Hayabusa from being strapped down too aggressively. And I would really hate to travel for a day getting to a riding spot only to find out I popped a fork seal in route. Obviously I can't tell you this tie down method is perfect, I only used it once and even then it never got far as there was a problem with the trailer. As for the nut, I use 2 nuts together to tighten them against each other on either side. The other nuts can move as this is not a problem once the bike is tied down.
 
Going to have to call BS on that one! Sorry Buddy. The bike is actually more stable because the unsprung weight is tied down to the trailer and the sprung weight is free to bounce up and down on the suspension as it would if you were riding the bike. When you tie the bike down and tighten the tie straps you reduce the suspension movement. Also, if there is still movement in the suspension the bike will loosen up the tie downs eventually.

The wheels are not rotating, how is it just like riding ???
 
Arch, when I would haul my bike in my open trailer, I did the fronts like you envision above, except I used a tie down to go around the wheel itself to help keep it from bouncing out of the front stand (also a backup in case the bolts failed holding the stand to the trailer. It worked well.

For the rears I just used tie downs and compressed the suspension a little bit. However, I also had a blown rear shock this fall (which MAY have contributed). But, now I've got the Pit Bull rear mounts as above and I really like them takes all the pressure off the suspension (oh, and you don't need the front tied down at all)..problem solved.
 
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