Bike Has No Electrical Power, PLEASE HELP!

I restored everything back to stock after I tried installing the XTRE Box and the bike still has no power. Here is my observations:

-Battery has 12.2 V
-One Post of starter relay has 12.2V
-Gauge cluster, headlight, and fuel pump don't come on when key is turned to on (Kill switch is in Run mode, bike in neutral, and kickstand up), Nothing comes on as it normally would
-Many of the pins on the ignition harness and cluster have 12.2V when the bike is keyed on yet the cluster doesn't light up
-Not even the clock is on; I was able to get it to go on for short bursts by touching some of the ignition harness pins with a test light, but it would go off. Touching these pins also caused the gauge cluster needles to jump up and the backlights to come on.
-No fuses are visually blown

I don't have a diagram to verify which pins are which on the harnesses for the ignition and gauge cluster so if anyone has the 2008 Wiring Diagram please post it or email it to me.

I am so confused at this point and have no idea.

Any ideas? How can I test the ECU? How do I test the relays? The only thing I did from the time it ran to when it started acting up was install the XTRE mod and I cut the correct wire for it(green/black wire); I have since removed that and restored everything 100% back to stock.

PLEASE HELP GUYS! :bowdown: :beerchug:
 
Theres a fuse by the battery on the left side as you side on the bike check this first mine has blown as well
 
Theres a fuse by the battery on the left side as you side on the bike check this first mine has blown as well

The 30amp one on the start relay? That one seems to be fine. Is there any other fusebox/panel other than the one under the left front plastic panel?

Also I've noticed a few people have been having cluster issues; Would a bad gauge cluster cause my symptoms?
 
Original thread for reviewing purposes

Since using a multimeter gets short bursts of power I'm going with a ground fault of some sort. If your multimeter has a toner built in I would start toning out each wire to make sure it doesn't have a short in it. Start from the battery ground then test any wire you spliced or moved for the TRE install. Use a marker or something so you know which ones toned out. This is a time consuming process but I think that's the only way you'll be able to tell for sure.

Somebody will a wiring diagram can probably limit this down to just a few grounding wires that would kill power to the whole bike.
 
Original thread for reviewing purposes

Since using a multimeter gets short bursts of power I'm going with a ground fault of some sort. If your multimeter has a toner built in I would start toning out each wire to make sure it doesn't have a short in it. Start from the battery ground then test any wire you spliced or moved for the TRE install. Use a marker or something so you know which ones toned out. This is a time consuming process but I think that's the only way you'll be able to tell for sure.

Somebody will a wiring diagram can probably limit this down to just a few grounding wires that would kill power to the whole bike.

I'm really not an expert in electrical testing/diagnosis....can you please explain what toning is and how I can do it?
 
I don't think this is going to be a fuse problem since a multimeter completes the circuit for a short period of time. If a fuse was blown you still wouldn't get a completed circuit when using the multimeter so you wouldn't get the short periods of power.

The 30amp one on the start relay? That one seems to be fine. Is there any other fusebox/panel other than the one under the left front plastic panel?

Also I've noticed a few people have been having cluster issues; Would a bad gauge cluster cause my symptoms?
 
I'm really not an expert in electrical testing/diagnosis....can you please explain what toning is and how I can do it?

I will try my best and toning may not be the right word or even spelling of the word. What I mean is on most multimeters there is a little symbol that looks like a cell phone signal, 3 bars with the bar on the far left being the smallest and the bars to the right of that are getting bigger. This is usually found in the ohms (upside down horseshoe) section of the multimeter

When the multimeter is set to this it will make a steady sound (a tone) when the circuit is completed. So if you touch the two probes together coming from the multimeter it should make a sound.

The first wire I would check would be the negative cable coming off the battery going to the frame. Disconnect the wire from the batter and then touch one probe to that wire and then touch the other probe to the other end of the wire. If everything is good you should get a tone telling you that you made a circuit. If you don't get a sound then you know something is wrong.

I wouldn't do this to the ECU or anything like that because there is a very small current going through the wire. Just test from one end of a wire or plug to the other end of the wire or plug.
 

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Here's a youtube video of what I'm talking about that may help you understand better.
 
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What other grounds are there other than the main battery ground? I'm not seeing any in the open.... I am so frustrated with this whole sitaution and I can just see it being something dumb.
 
I don't know off the top of my head. I would need to go through the service manual and find them but there are probably a few grounds through out the bike. I would check any wire or plug that you touched during the installation process since that is what caused the problem.
 
Nope.....tomorrow after work I will dig in some more. I hate how it can be so many things.....right now my mind is saying it could be a: bad ground, bad relay, defective gauge cluster, or fried ECU.
 
What do you mean a similar problem?

When i installed the xtre my bike didnt start i verifyed all the xtre connections and one wasnt fully connected then the bike start normaly.Now im having the temp gauge problem that rise to high then to normal i read that could be the xtre, and i will have to by pass the xtre :banghead: to see if is really an xtre malfunction.Good luck with your bike :thumbsup:
 
Take a piece of heavy gauge wire or even a jumper cable and hook to the ground side of the battery then the other end to a good solid ground on the bike. This will tell you if the problem is in the ground circuit.
 
High Def Picture of 08/09 Wiring Diagram

Endless,

I did a google image search and found a better image of the wiring diagram found in the service manual that I believe is correct for your bike. Maybe another member can verify the wiring diagram is correct for your bike before you get to far though.

I took a quick look at it and it appears all B/W (Black with White stripe) are negative (ground) wires. What I would start to do is leave one probe of your multimeter attached to the bike on the wire coming from the battery terminal with the fuse attached to it. Leave the probe attached to the bike side of the fuse and not the terminal side of the fuse in case there is a problem with that fuse.

With your multimeter set to continuity start testing every b/w wire you see in that diagram. Maybe start with the tail light and work clockwise. You will need to turn the ignition to the one position for this to work on some of the wires. Also, any where you see a "cut" in the wiring diagram make sure you test the bike side of that wire and not the switch side because the switch is killing the circuit if it is engage.

Hopefully this will help some more in testing your power problem.
 
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I restored everything back to stock after I tried installing the XTRE Box and the bike still has no power....
This begs the question, "TRIED" installing the XTRE. Why exactly did you end up wanting to remove the XTRE? Next remember the kiss method, this is more than likely something very simple and probably lies in the same area as the install/removal of the XTRE. Now, go back over every wire, bolt, & nut you touched to install your XTRE. Make sure all connections are good/secure and back in there original state, BEFORE you go any further...

Answers to some of these questions could help us solve your problem... :thumbsup:
 
This begs the question, "TRIED" installing the XTRE. Why exactly did you end up wanting to remove the XTRE? Next remember the kiss method, this is more than likely something very simple and probably lies in the same area as the install/removal of the XTRE. Now, go back over every wire, bolt, & nut you touched to install your XTRE. Make sure all connections are good/secure and back in there original state, BEFORE you go any further...

Answers to some of these questions could help us solve your problem... :thumbsup:

I have gone over everything I touched to install it multiple times before I started looking into it further and I didn't find anything....I thought the same thing and expected it to be something simple.

By "Tried" I mean I plugged it in at the GPS plug, spliced it into the Green/Black ECU wire like the instructions. I connected the red XTRE power wire directly to the red positive battery terminal and that was it. It's a simple install so that's what is so puzzling.......I like to consider myself very mechanically inclined, but when it comes to electrical diagnosis I don't know much.
 
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