Best Way To Lift Front End.

BusaBenny

Registered
Hey guys. I'm to change out my steering stem bearing and I'm stumped as to how to lift the lift end of the bike off the ground. Obviously I can't use a front stand and I don't have a garage beam to hang it from. What are your guys thoughts?

The only thing I can think of Is using a rear stand and putting a jack under the motor near the oil plug. Thanks
 
Hey guys.

I'm to change out my steering stem bearing
and I'm stumped as to how to lift the lift end of the bike off the ground .

Obviously I can't use a front stand
and I don't have a garage beam to hang it from .

What are your thoughts ?

The only thing I can think of is using a rear stand
and putting a jack under the motor near the oil plug .

Thanks .

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Check with Chrisjp. I am pretty sure he had a pretty cool way he did it.
 
Well just to mention here. You need to hammer the races out of the neck also,,,
If you rear stand is wide,, i would strap the rear pegs brackets down to the stand for stability.
Then with some one to help you,, then jack up the front , as well be around while you do the job.
Are you using OEM bearings, or allballs?
If Allballs, the tapered DO not get torqued, like the oems. They are a feel as you tighten them.
 
Chris did his fork seals,, but that would work also,, Jack Stands, and 1/2 rod through the swingarm pitment bolt,
Much more stable then the rear stand
Check with Chrisjp. I am pretty sure he had a pretty cool way he did it.
 
With the rod through the swingarm pivot you still need to be able to tie the rear end down. A lift is best option there, otherwise need to be creative...
 
So rod through the swingarm seems to be the more popular choice for the back. I can do that. I have the stuff. I was thinking for the front I'd have the jack under the motor near the oil drain plug. I'd have my front stand that goes under the lower triple. I'd take the wheels, fender, calipers, forks, upper tree off and go as far as I can. Then jack the jack up to the same height that it sits with the front stand under it. I'd then remove the front stand and drop the lower triple. Install the new races and bearing and then repeat the process backwards. Thoughts?
 
Two ladders and a 4x4. Lift on a front and rear stand. Fuel tank off and ratchet strap under each side of the frame, tighten straps over 4x4, remove front stand, your front hangs. I wouldn't lift under the oil pan unless you can do it ONLY around the edges. They do make brackets that will do that with a floor jack.
 
Block of wood on a jack, under the headers, they can support it.
I'de tie the bike to something to help prevent tipping to either side.
The rod through frame on jackstands works good too, but it would be better to leave it on just the rear stand. As the front will be supported under the engine. You need wider front to rear spacing if you're going to support the front under the engine.
Not the best way, but doeable.
 
I would love a Bursig stand or a abba lift but can't afford one right now. I was thinking the same thing as you six pack.
 
Oem Ball bearings are torqued to 32.5 ft lbs, on the first castle nut, then backed off by 1/4 to 1/5 a turn.
Then the second castle nut is torqued to 58 ft lbs
If you use tapered aftermarket bearings, it is all different
The first castle nut gets snugged up, and then backed off,
and only the second castle nut gets torqued
The all balls are all about the feel of the stem, If a race isn't seated correctly you will have problems.
The OEM when you torque them helps and makes sure the races are down. The tapered bearing can be damaged if torqued to much
Gixerhp- I got all ball racing. What part doesn't get torqued? I'm a little confused. Thanks.
 
My $.02. The rod through swingarm pivot works great. The jack under the oil pan will not lift evenly though and you risk tipping bike. Remove rear wheel after it's on jack stands. Unbolt front end and then push down on rear to lift front off steering stem. Some muscle might be required at front as well to lift. I had mine suspended from garage door brackets with tie-downs once it was in air.
 
Update

Thank you guys for your help. I ended up using the rear stand, a threaded rod with jack stands through the swingarm, and a jack under the motor and headers. For the jack stand I used a piece of wood to make up the difference between the motor and the r77 headers, and a piece of wood to cross over the Headers and the middle piece of wood. It was very stable. I used the front and rear stand till I got all the parts off except the lower triple. Then I transferred the weight to the jack. I replaced everything and then transferred the weight back to the front stand. It was not ideal but it worked. Thanks.
 
Update

Thank you guys for your help. I ended up using the rear stand, a threaded rod with jack stands through the swingarm, and a jack under the motor and headers. For the jack stand I used a piece of wood to make up the difference between the motor and the r77 headers, and a piece of wood to cross over the Headers and the middle piece of wood. It was very stable. I used the front and rear stand till I got all the parts off except the lower triple. Then I transferred the weight to the jack. I replaced everything and then transferred the weight back to the front stand. It was not ideal but it worked. Thanks.
:thumbsup:
 
I recently sold a table lift and got a Abba skylight to replace it. Best thing i've done. It makes lifting the bike so easy. I've never had a method to lift the front wheel until now. Worth the money. I waited until a bike show was on and got a deal on it.

Andy.
 
I take off the wind screen and use a car engine lift and tie down straps you can rent at autozone or buy at harbor freight
 
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