Battery Failure so bad, it won't keep running


#1
Guys, do these batteries fail so completely, that even if you jumped it, it stopped as soon as jumper is removed? OK, I'm pretty certain that the battery is dead, but usually (historically), if I was able to get it started, at least I could ride it home. Today, my 2000 Busa quit. OK, I really didn't tend to the battery all winter, but it started fine when I left the house. After 40 miles or so, it quit at a stop sign. Probably not the best thing to do, but I jumped it with a truck (I'm going to get slammed for this :laugh:. It started, ran fine until I took the cable off, then nothing. Do you guys think the battery is so completely dead, it won't even keep it running after it was started again? I tried it twice, both times it started fine. As soon as the jumper came off, it died. I had to get this thing off the side of the road and ended up putting it in the truck. Usually, even if I could bump start it or whatever down a hill, it would still keep the engine running until I got it home. Thanks for any clarifying information. I've had this bike for ten years, and have put 2 or 3 batteries in it, but never has it failed such that I couldn't find a way ti start it, and take it home. (Only 18K miles on it). It has never had any other failures.
 

jwest

Registered
#3
Autozone and alot of places test batteries for free,better to test than spend on a new battery and find its not the problem,ive found batteries can do weird things,i had a battery get me 1 hour from my house then strand me when i shut bike off,all guages fired up fine ,found battery was good but the CCA (cold cranking amps) were bad..and that battery was only 1 yr old...new battery solved problem...and get a battery tender for storage,cheap and saves getting new battery
 

Busa1166

Donating Member
Registered
#4
:welcome: test the volts and amps on the battery. If it's dead charge it and see if it starts then check the charging system.. It is possible that a bad battery may not let it run after jumping it. Hitting the motorcycle with that much amperage not a good idea either... I think :dunno: maybe someone with more know how post up for ya
 

twotonevert

Member of P.E.A.
Moderator
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#5
It either does not have water in it or has a bad cell. You are better off just replacing. Oh and I dont think jumping from a car battery is bad if the car is not running.
 
#6
Thanks guys. Yeah, I believe I got myself into that situation because I did not pay enough attention to the battery during the winter months. There must have been just enough juice to start it once or twice, then failed completely. It's just weird that it would not keep running (as other bike have in the past). Busa, a different animal :). I really want to get the new lithium technology. I've read the posts, Ballistic vs. Shoria (forgive spelling). Do you guys have positive / negative opinions on the Lithium batteries. Thanks for your inputs!
 

rubbersidedown

BUSA-RIDIN'-BASTID
Donating Member
Registered
#7
It either does not have water in it or has a bad cell. You are better off just replacing. Oh and I dont think jumping from a car battery is bad if the car is not running.
If you have too,yo have to. You can damage voltage regulators etc. But I agree with 2tone.

RSD.
 

rubbersidedown

BUSA-RIDIN'-BASTID
Donating Member
Registered
#8
Battery tenders. Go with M/C specific one,not car type. 900mA is plenty to keep a battery healthy for months. 30 bucks will save you hundreds. I've had 60-70 bikes over the years,bought maybe 3 batteries(usually toast when I bought bike).

RSD.
 

1busa

Registered
#9
Ive dealt with a similar issue with a bad battery on a previous bike and let me tell you its a ticking time bomb. Not worth the stress and worry of if it will start and will I wind up stranded somewhere. Just go to Advance Autoparts pay the $65 and get a new battery and be done with it :whistle:
 

1busa

Registered
#11
I heard great things about the Ballistic lithium. No muss no fuss, super light and I was told that they hold their charge 4 years with no charger needed. Cold Cranking Amps are also higher than most other batteries. The only thing to watch 4 when dealing with lithiums is to not let them sit in below 40 degree temperatures
 
#13
Yes, a new battery is shall be! I don't want to take any chances with that old thing leaving me walking again (the battery, not the Busa!) I just have to decide on which of the Lithium batteries to get. Ballistic or Shorai. Thanks for your inputs. Being able to pick your collective brains is a wonderful resource. :)
 

majestic12

Hunting Kawasakis
Donating Member
Registered
#14
My buddy had the same thing happen to him on his Honda Shadow. New battery and cleaned terminals helped.

As far as jumping the bike goes. If you are using those thin gauge walmart special cables I think the line loss thru those tiny cables and poorly crimped ends will be enough to protect you even from a deep cycle.
 
#15
Well I wasn't using cheap cables from walmart, but I could hardly get the clamps on the battery terminals, so the positive clamp was barely on there. I'm hoping I didn't do any damage. I'm still waiting for the new Lithium battery, so I sure hope it fires up when I put it in. I don't even think the old battery will take a charge at all, because now it won't even light the parking brake light. I'm just surprised that it started the bike Sunday morning, then it crapped out completely. I would never make a habit of jumping the Busa with a Ford Ranger, that was just a last ditch attempt to get it started, to ride it home. As "dadofthree" puts it; "Batteries fail all kinds of ways". I guess I just got the unique failure combination where the battery just kept draining as I drove it, and would not accept a charge from the charging system. So far, I've not seen any evidence of failure, of these new Lithium batteries. No one speaks ill of them that I know of.
 
#16
If a bike dies after jumping, wouldn't that lead to being suspicious of the stator or rectifier? Seems more likely to be a dead stator which then drained the battery, but who knows...
 
#18
If a bike dies after jumping, wouldn't that lead to being suspicious of the stator or rectifier? Seems more likely to be a dead stator which then drained the battery, but who knows...
Argilbertson, that's what I'm afraid of. How much of a pain is it to replace the stator? This whole thing bothers me because; I kind of new the battery might be no good, because it sat all winter, and I didn't do anything to maintain it (like a dummy). So, it really bothers me that it would not keep running after jumping as you point out. Let's say I put the new battery in, if it starts, can I check to see while it's running across the battery, if the stator is putting out? It should read a higher voltage than just the battery itself, right?
 
#19
I got the Shorai lithium-iron back around October last year. Haven't had any issue with it, but it's a new battery. Shorai has a FAQ page on their website
Rusheriv, I like those Shorais, it's smaller so they send like little foam (whatever material) to take up the space, right? I think I read somewhere that the Ballistic Batteries may not exactly fit, and required some mods to the frame :crowbar: I don't want any part of altering the frame to put a new battery in. Did you get the standard, or the next tier, Duration?
 
#20
From my understanding, if you put a multimeter across the battery and start it, you should see the voltage drop on starter load, then 13+ volts as the stator goes into charge mode...not sure what rpm you should be getting what output at, but there should be. More than the 12.6 the battery should show...someone correct me if I'm wrong...
 

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