battery charging problem

[samurai95407]

I tested the voltage on the battery while the bike was at idle and it was charging ok but when I gave it gas the voltmeter showed that the battery was lossing voltage,which might be part of the problem why when I ride it just die's on me and when I try to start it,it starting just spin's instead of crankin,if any one can point me into the right direction on how to fix this it would be much appreciated

 

[Wag]

Stator cover?

--Wag--

 

[turbobusa2000]

Not enough info on the charging issue, but from what you descibed with the starter just spinning, your starter clutch may be shot.

 

[samurai95407]

thank you, checkin out the starter clutch will be a good place too start,I also think that maybe the used generater I bought off ebay might be nogood

 

[thepushercg]

you can test the stator with a volt meter to make sure.
it will read in ac voltage on the three legs comning out,around 70 volts each. from there it goes to the rectifier and converts to dc voltage. test it where it plugs in under the tank going back to the rectifier.

 

[samurai95407]

thank you,I thought of testing the stator but wasn't sure of the normal voltage output and which one of the three wires to test,but tommarow am gona bring the bike to the shop to test it out

 

[mat_rock]

What causes the voltage to drop when riding faster?

as the speed goes higher, the voltage drops.
But the lowest is 13.2V.

mine idles at 14.2-14.5v

at speeds below 100KMH, it is 13.9V
as i go faster than 100KMH, it drops gradually to 13.2V (lowest).

 

[Bumblebee]

Most likely the rectifier....

 

[Berlin Germany]

@Yunus

at a gen1 ?
then

look for the connectors under the tank

and the conns at the rectifier LH in the tail

three times i found this crap and every time the batt got ~13,9 volt at iddle and 12,9-13,2 at >3 000 rpm

btw.
at my former ´00 i had only the issue at the rect. - as a test i only changed its connector pair and got best voltage ~ 14.2 - so the rectifier and his function itself luckily was fine.

 

[Ronan]

@Yunus

at a gen1 ?
then

look for the connectors under the tank

View attachment 1627314

and the conns at the rectifier LH in the tail

View attachment 1627315

three times i found this crap and every time the batt got ~13,9 volt at iddle and 12,9-13,2 at >3 000 rpm

btw.
at my former ´00 i had only the issue at the rect. - as a test i only changed its connector pair and got best voltage ~ 14.2 - so the rectifier and his function itself luckily was fine.

I had the same issue a few years ago. I prefered welding the wires instead of replacing the connector.

 

[Berlin Germany]

I had the same issue a few years ago. I prefered welding the wires instead of replacing the connector.

at the rect. ? okay ,
but using a new, complete 6-way conn.-pair (with 6mm wide plugs inside) on the controller is, in my opinion , much more elegant.

did you check the 3 yellow wire triple conn. under the tank also? (see my 1st pic above)

at the last busa, a ´99, with a not batt. loading generator issue,
i had to remove all 3 yellow wires too - from the conn. under the tank to the conn. of the rect. - conn.
and
pay all attention to the size of the yellow wire´s dia - it is a 2.5² mm - thinner it will be a "wire-heating" and after a short while its insulation will "burn" from flexibility to stiffness - the insulation become hard and is in biggest danger to break.

caused by all that fuggly crap i strongly recommend to check these 2 conns once every year !

at least at all from year of construction ´99-´07 (gen1) !

whether this issue might be found at the gen2 too i have no clue - but at minimum i would check as well at all gen2 the triple conn. (yellow wires) under the tank.

 

[Ronan]

at the rect. ? okay ,
but using a new, complete 6-way conn.-pair (with 6mm wide plugs inside) on the controller is, in my opinion , much more elegant.

did you check the 3 yellow wire triple conn. under the tank also? (see my 1st pic above)

at the last busa, a ´99, with a not batt. loading generator issue,
i had to remove all 3 yellow wires too - from the conn. under the tank to the conn. of the rect. - conn.
and
pay all attention to the size of the yellow wire´s dia - it is a 2.5² mm - thinner it will be a "wire-heating" and after a short while its insulation will "burn" from flexibility to stiffness - the insulation become hard and is in biggest danger to break.

caused by all that fuggly crap i strongly recommend to check these 2 conns once every year !

at least at all from year of construction ´99-´07 (gen1) !

whether this issue might be found at the gen2 too i have no clue - but at minimum i would check as well at all gen2 the triple conn. (yellow wires) under the tank.

Thé connector close to thé regulator was well. It was the first one(under the tank) from the alternator with the 3 Yellow wires. It had burnt like in your 1st picture. There IS a risk with it. So, I welded the wires.

 

[Berlin Germany]

@Ronan

did you also check the 3 very short wires from the triple conn. to the main harness?

some 4 months ago i had that issue too and i had to built a new three wire (2.5² each) harness from reg. to under the tank because these 3 wires were burnt "free" as like as the others the whole length from triple conn. to intrance to the harness. blank copper wires - what a mess and what a big danger to get a short circuit there !

see pic of triple conn. at the main harness

havin a new one i cut the old off

 

[ufukthegixxer]

What causes the voltage to drop when riding faster?

as the speed goes higher, the voltage drops.
But the lowest is 13.2V.

mine idles at 14.2-14.5v

at speeds below 100KMH, it is 13.9V
as i go faster than 100KMH, it drops gradually to 13.2V (lowest).

Isn't it normal to drop voltage when rpm increases?
In theory, to limit power dissipation , when rpm increases rectifier voltage increases and current have to decrease, otherwise rectifier will burn up. That current drop will lead charging voltage drop too.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

Isn't it normal to drop voltage when rpm increases?

Hello there in Turkey!

At high RPM when the AC power reaches its peak and DC voltage is around 14.5 (verify), the rectifier sends excess power to ground so that it does not go any higher. What you are talking about is partially correct, excess power is dissipated or wasted, but not enough to make the voltage go down. At high RPM the voltage remains the same and the regulation stops it from going any higher.

As was said above when RPM goes up and voltage goes down, that indicates there is a problem. One the regulator can be burned up. Also a short circuit in the stator due to burnt insulation can drop the power. Three burnt wiring or connections are likely to accompany these problems.

 

[ufukthegixxer]

Hello there in Turkey!

At high RPM when the AC power reaches its peak and DC voltage is around 14.5 (verify), the rectifier sends excess power to ground so that it does not go any higher. What you are talking about is partially correct, excess power is dissipated or wasted, but not enough to make the voltage go down. At high RPM the voltage remains the same and the regulation stops it from going any higher.

As was said above when RPM goes up and voltage goes down, that indicates there is a problem. One the regulator can be burned up. Also a short circuit in the stator due to burnt insulation can drop the power. Three burnt wiring or connections are likely to accompany these problems.

Hello,
ah yes, its shunt regulator,voltage should not drop.
Thanks for reminding.

 

[Ronan]

Hello there in Turkey!

At high RPM when the AC power reaches its peak and DC voltage is around 14.5 (verify), the rectifier sends excess power to ground so that it does not go any higher. What you are talking about is partially correct, excess power is dissipated or wasted, but not enough to make the voltage go down. At high RPM the voltage remains the same and the regulation stops it from going any higher.

As was said above when RPM goes up and voltage goes down, that indicates there is a problem. One the regulator can be burned up. Also a short circuit in the stator due to burnt insulation can drop the power. Three burnt wiring or connections are likely to accompany these problems.

75/5000



That's why I drilled the plastic cover in front of the regulator to cool it better