Bad rear brake...

LeeFL2

Registered
Installed rear EBC HH Pads and steel braid line today.

Was having trouble with the rear brake...30% stopping power even after bleeding it over and over.

When I got the bike, 2 months ago ( 2006 7800miles) fluid was brown, like burnt. I replaced fluid removed and cleaned pads and reassembled and bled it good. Still 20-30% stopping power.
That is what triggered me to buy the EBC pads and the Galfer steel line.

Installed today and even though it brakes better(50%stop power), it still takes a lot of pressure to get the wheel to lock up.

What gives?
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Mine doesn't lock up the wheel without great pressure either and I have also done the steel lines and ebc pads.  It is a heavy bike with weak rear brake.
 
Check the adjusting nut for the rear brake pedal, mine has vibrated loose before and will give the feel that you spoke of. HH pads take awhile to seat in, but your problem sounds like it is something else.
 
(Cblast @ Jul. 01 2007,20:05) Mine doesn't lock up the wheel without great pressure either and I have also done the steel lines and ebc pads.  It is a heavy bike with weak rear brake.

No sheet! Weak must be the word for it...

I can't believe it!

I have a 800 lbs cruiser (2006 Yamaha, Stratoliner) and it has phenomenal rear brakes. Lock on demand at the slightest pressure.

This sucks bad...

I ride well and don't over use my rear at all, but it is good to have that stopping power on demand.
 
Did you bleed the inner bleeder valve on the rear caliper? There's two bleeder screws on the rear caliper.
 
(GSXcite @ Jul. 01 2007,20:07) Check the adjusting nut for the rear brake pedal, mine has vibrated loose before and will give the feel that you spoke of. HH pads take awhile to seat in, but your problem sounds like it is something else.
I have it adjusted good. The travel and lever position is perfect. I wonder if the Master Cylinder has damage due to contaminated/burnt fluid by last owner.

Seems that he used the rear brake way more than he should have.

Some people don't deserve to have these bikes! LOL
 
(GMbusa @ Jul. 01 2007,20:19) Did you bleed the inner bleeder valve on the rear caliper?  There's two bleeder screws on the rear caliper.
Yes, I bled both of them and theMaster Cylinder.
Did this by putting pressure on the brake and slightly cracking that bolt on top of the M-cyl.
 
From what I heard, the rear brake is supposed to be real good...

Who has a strong rear brake out there???
 
Mine locks with just a little pressure on the pedal!
 
I rarely use mine except to hold station at Intersections but I have to agree that it is practically useless for stopping!

Anybody ever use the Braketech Axis Rotors on a Busa?
 
(bigoltool @ Jul. 01 2007,20:47) I rarely use mine except to hold station at Intersections but I have to agree that it is practically useless for stopping!

Anybody ever use the Braketech Axis Rotors on a Busa?
Nope on the Axis. I have here of guys running them but they always seem to come back to the HH's.

But, you got a point there!

Why are you even concerning yourself with this rear brake? Mainly, the only time I will use the rear brake is when holding at a line or for corner-braking and settling the suspension.

But,,, SERIOUSLY,,, if don't know what you are doing regarding the latter, I don't recommend it.
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I got the same problem.... Bled the damn thing over and over and over and still got less than stock stopping power with SS lines and EBC pads... It wasn't like this at the beginning, but haven't figured it out yet either...
 
Honestly, I'll tell you,, I installed my braided lines and got the same thing.

You have to adjust the screw and plunger on the master cylinder,, adjusting it down into its travel. The one thing you have to pay attention to is that if you go too far,,, you will activate your rear brake light because that switch is on that same set up. So, if you adjust down too far, you will have a rear brake light that won't turn off.

It is a fine line, but it can be adjusted right. Just take your time.

Again, you really shouldn't be using the rear brake, whilst moving, ESPECIALLY IF NOT TRAVELING IN A STRAIGHT LINE,,, unless you know what you are doing.

One word - Highside!
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After I installed my HH pads front and rear, the fronts don't work worth a darn either until you get some heat in them, and the rear is even harder to get heat built up. So what I do is ride the rear brake a little for the first few blocks when starting out and it seems to firm up the stopping power. I also do the same on the front as well.
 
When you bled it, did you let the brake arm travel all the way down?
 
(GMbusa @ Jul. 02 2007,13:36) When you bled it, did you let the brake arm travel all the way down?
Yep, I'm an ace mechanic, so I know these things pretty well.

I am thinking that there is some bypass in the master cylinder...

Must say that I force seated them today and they are working much better!

Not super easy to lock up but will lock up if asked to.
 
I don't get people who say not to use the rear brake.
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IT is there to be USED. Along with front and engine breaks.

Granted, you should know what you are doing not only in the rear brake department, but in all aspects of motorcycle operation.

I use my rear all the time and use it lightly at that. Let's say 20% front and 80% rear.

When downshifting and using front and rear together, you can scrub speed faster than any other way.
 
(LeeFL2 @ Jul. 02 2007,13:46)
(GMbusa @ Jul. 02 2007,13:36) When you bled it, did you let the brake arm travel all the way down?
Yep, I'm an ace mechanic, so I know these things pretty well.

I am thinking that there is some bypass in the master cylinder...

Must say that I force seated them today and they are working much better!

Not super easy to lock up but will lock up if asked to.
Should be able to lock em up.
 
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