anyone try one of thease??

R

ranman

busaless but lovin the weather
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i have been rideing since june here in az. and no heating problems unless i sit in trafic for a long time. then it starts to get hot.
so i wondered if anyone used one of thease??
http://www.1320straightliners.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=temp

info
Fan Temp Switch Relocator is a billet relocator for the radiator fan temperature switch. It relocates the temperture switch to the lower right radiator hose, It turns the fan on sooner and leaves it run longer. This little piece is a big help in city driving. The relocator also includes a block off plug for the original sensor hole in the left side of the radiator.

RCC0037_1.jpg
 
It could do more harm (by draining your batteryt) than do good if you're sitting in stop, go traffic and engine temps isn't high enough to kick on your fan.
At idle (rmp less than 2k) your bike is only pulling from your battery with no help from your stator (generator). Depending on how long your sitting in stop and go traffic,if your bike stalled (for whatever reason)during that time she probably won't crank over, due to a weak battery.

Just my .02
 
For anyone deciding to get one, I would suggest changing out all ofyour lights (turn signal,brakes, etc) with LED type and a HID for lower wattage consumption.
 
Never heard of that before. I forget how exactly but a few years ago I've read on Suzukihayabusa.org that Motorhead aka (Dennis Clayton)  and a few other top named turbo owners use another method to keep their Busa running cooler constantly.
 
that temp switch relocator is used by the turbo crowd. There are two reasons, 1. it gives them more clearance 2. Helps to kick the fan/fans on a little sooner. I wouldn't be so worried about draining your battery. Sure, if you kept your brake light on, high beam on, turned all your blinkers on, and your fan staying on, then over some time it would run way low on volts. The relocation of the switch just allows the ECU to see the coolant temp hit the off/on mark sooner and also see the temp sooner to shut it back off. You haven't increased or decreased any v use.
 
Just put one on my bike.
Haven't rode it on a hot day yet, but I had to for clearance like Commuta_Busa said.
 
Jinkster says its caused by the intake air temp sensor in the air box leaning the fuel mix! There was a post on it. You need to move it to the outside of the airbox. Makes sense. I like! the remote switch tied in to the sensor wire to the relay, so you can run it when you want! works for me.
 
Commuta_Busa @ Oct. 10 2007 said:
that temp switch relocator is used by the turbo crowd. There are two reasons, 1. it gives them more clearance 2. Helps to kick the fan/fans on a little sooner. I wouldn't be so worried about draining your battery. Sure, if you kept your brake light on, high beam on, turned all your blinkers on, and your fan staying on, then over some time it would run way low on volts. The relocation of the switch just allows the ECU to see the coolant temp hit the off/on mark sooner and also see the temp sooner to shut it back off. You haven't increased or decreased any v use.
Click to expand...
Key word...... fan staying on!


I can say from experience my cooling fan basically stayed running (off and on)when I got caught in high traffic in downtown D.C. during the Ride the Wall event in 2002. After several minutes of sitting in stop and go traffic (slow moving), my temp gauge was damn near redlining (Busa's do run hotter than most bikes). To help keep the bike cool,I turned it off after several minutes of sitting and when the traffic started to move again my bike turned over kinda slow (like the battery was weak)when I started her up, but luckily she fired up. I believe if I was running a cooling fan that would have activated sooner and longer, it probably would have ran continuously the whole time surely weaking the battery to the point it wouldn't have started. Some will say it was probably a overheated starter, possibly, but I will disagree. Reason,,,, same situation the following yr with ICE BLUE, LED's brake and turn signal lights and HID no problems. To test my upgrades, I cut her off and she fired back up with no hesitation like the previous yr. I wouldn't have done the test if my road dawgs weren't rolling with me. My point, if you're going to do this mod and may come to a point to be sitting in high traffic take the necessary steps I suggested to avoid being the cause of stopped traffic.


my .02
 
The only time I have an overheating problem in traffic is when the idle is set too low. It doesn't flow the coolant through the system fast enough to be effective at idle.
 
1. I modded my A.I.T.S. (air intake temperature sensor)
by relocating it.

2. I use "engine ice" and 2 capfulls of redline "water wetter"

3. I live in south florida...never missed a bike week or biketoberfest...idled in steamy hot traffic for hours every time i go...(it's almost un-avoidable)...and have never seen my temp needle pass the 1/2 way mark let alone get anywhere's near the red "over-heating" zone.

easy as 1.,2.,3.
 
This thread has gotten a little muddy... The product mentioned in the start of this thread is to relocate the fan temp switch away from the rad. The AITS switch is attached to the intake box... they serve to different purposes.
 
Mine is bone stock. Idled in sturgis traffic this year. Fan running constantly (at first it was cycling on/off, then just stayed on), temp guage never went higher than just above the half way mark on the guage.
 
The reason your bike turned over slowly when it was real hot was the heat itself. Heat radiated to your starter and slowed it's performance. Plus, a hot motor is harder to start up than a cool one.

The relocation mod is a good one.
 
Commuta_Busa @ Oct. 11 2007 said:
This thread has gotten a little muddy... The product mentioned in the start of this thread is to relocate the fan temp switch away from the rad. The AITS switch is attached to the intake box... they serve to different purposes.
Click to expand...
well?...to be more concise...my point is this...


The fan coming on is sort of a "last ditch/fail-safe" sorta gizmo..in others words?...it's the anchor man in the fight against quelling rising engine temp situations..and if it's affects fail?...the king dies.

and to me?..that's a poor basket to place all of ones eggs in...if there's a persistant over-heating problem/situation there are other...more effective...up front...measures to take rather than abusing your last line of defense (and your electrical system) against over-heating your busa's engine.

Typically?...the guys with the big bore kits have the most challenges with quelling idle heat...many of them run engine ice, water wetter and dual fans.

but i haven't seen a stock bored busa need any more than some high quality coolant "engine ice" and a couple cap fulls of water wetter wouldn't cure...especially with the iats relocation mod (for those big city summertime traffic jamb situations)

but imho?...taxing the electrical system ain't the way to go.

I might also note that muzzy fan replacements are a great way to go as well...while i haven't had need to do it yet?...blade fer blade?..i hear they do move a whole lot more air through the rad. bringing the temps down quicker...thereby saving the electrical system a little extra work.

L8R, Bill.
cool.gif
 
JINKSTER @ Oct. 10 2007 said:
2. I use "engine ice" and 2 capfulls of redline "water wetter"

3. I live in south florida...never missed a bike week or biketoberfest...idled in steamy hot traffic for hours every time i go...(it's almost un-avoidable)...and have never seen my temp needle pass the 1/2 way mark let alone get anywhere's near the red "over-heating" zone.

easy as 1.,2.,3.
Click to expand...
+1

I did the same as your #2 and added a muzzy fan and never been above 1/2. and i'm in Florida also (Tampa Area) and i've been on it for hours at idle/near idle speeds with no issues.

And let me tell you, when the muzzy fan kicks in you feel the heat blowing out. it moves alot more air. and it's cheep, don't remeber exactly, but only cost $25 or something close to that.
 
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