A bit late in the thread, but...
You don't need to remove fairings just to change the oil. If you are changing the oil filter, then yes, the right one and the underbelly needs to be removed.
I've never used a torque wrench around the bike, except maybe for internal engine parts. It's so easy to develop a feel of the force you are applying by hands within 1lb - 150 lb range. Then you adjust it according to the lever length, i.e. if it's 1 ft long lever - then whatever force you apply is the exact lb x ft torque. If the length of the lever is 2/3 of 1 ft, then you can apply roughly 30% more effort.
So, in the case of a drain plug with 16 lb ft of torque, if you use 1/2 ft wrench (to be more accurate what matters is the distance between the point where you apply the pressure with your hand and the other end of the wrench), you can apply 32lb of force when tightening. So, playing it safe, in such a case I use about 20 lb of force, and then I give another notch or two paying attention to my effort.
I understand that this approach is not for everyone. However, I think it's important to have a general feel. What if you mistakenly set your torque wrench to the wrong setting? Or, what if you missed a click? Are you going to apply the effort until you hear the click or a ratcheting sound. Could be too late. Besides, it's simply impractical to use torque wrench all the time.
Another small point. Torque setting is a very imprecise requirement (internal engine torques being an exception to a degree). It's laughable to read that Suzuki says the drain plug torque should be 16.5 lb ft. Real life torque could be anywhere from 10 - 20, and it's going to be just fine. They should say 16.5 +/- 3, or something similar. I am not sure a typical torque wrench would be acccurate within 0.5 ft lb.
