Anybody use a 100% "no-fling" chain lube?




fallenarch

THE SLOW RIDER
Registered
The chain is a necessary evil in the sportbike world. IMO it will be for years to come. A shaft I believe could be made to handle extreme HP like a turbo Busa but it has drawbacks. The effect of a rotating shaft turned 90 degrees just feels odd.A chain drive bikes suspension crushes underload,while shaftdrive riders report the opposite. When you see shaftdrive employed in MotoGp or at the strip,I'll jump onboard. :thumbsup:
For hassle free maintenance,you can't beat it. I'm sure there are SD bikes out there with a ton of clicks on them still running the 80 or 90 weight the rolled outa the factory with.Maybe Yamaha was on to something,I use them as an' example I know. The Euro version Virago had an' enclosed chain final drive.(many other manufactures dabbled in the idea as well. Maybe they were on to something. A chain with all its benefits encased in a quart of oil. Then...there's that one "other thing"...
SD is fugly. :laugh: Sorry Bro.
Rubb.

View attachment 1624050
The biggest drawback of a shaft drive is weight and the draw it takes on the power you have to deliver to the back wheel. That's why you don't see them on sport bikes. Older shaft drives displayed a climbing behavior but BMW's telelever system is very stable under acceleration. A chain "pulls" the rear sprocket on the top side of the swing are which is why bikes with chains squat under acceleration. This is a negative impact for handling but improves traction by shifting the weight bias to the rear. In fact, the reason sportbikes have forks and chains is because their negatives are actually advantages when controlled. The squatting bike can accelerate faster and a diving front end makes a bike turn in faster.

I could imagine a carbon fiber swingarm with a CF drive shaft one day, but I'm not sure there is a good reason for the added cost/complexity as a chain is an elegantly simple solution with being messy as it's only real drawback. I could see CF belts replacing the train drive though. Chains are heavy and draw a lot of power to roll.
 

Mr Brown

Registered
are you sure?


cheers
ken
I‘m sure. I’ve seen drag bikes launch and their top row pulls tight but the bottom row droops low. Sprocket size may effect this a bit.
The swingarm pivot also has an effect on this, some bikes squat in a different way than others. Some of the early ZX6 models (the ZZR ones) look completely different, like the wheelbase is getting longer and the bottom of the chain gets tight.
 

WuzzaCBXRider

Donating Member
Registered
The swingarm pivot also has an effect on this, some bikes squat in a different way than others. Some of the early ZX6 models (the ZZR ones) look completely different, like the wheelbase is getting longer and the bottom of the chain gets tight.
That effect must almost feel like the mid 60s BMW I’ve ridden. The jacking effect was really something in the twisties with on/off throttle applications. For the record I’ve found that Maxima chain wax works the best for me however, I’ve not tried any ’new and improved’ chain lube. Maybe when I get a new chain.
 

Red05

Donating Member
Registered
I use WD40 or GM Super Lube before every ride. Keeping the bike on a rear stand makes it so easy (I remember having to roll the bike and spray at the same time). Close to 300k miles on about 10 bikes with no excessive chain or sprocket wear. Experience is much more reliable than the sometimes rude opinions I've been given about this method lol.
 

Berlin Germany

Registered
I'm bored with cleaning the fling or fly off from chain lube. (...)
you cannot prevent this completely with no chain lubrication.
my only recommendation would be an automatic chain oiler from "rockoil" called "scott-oiler" - the oil is generally so easy to wipe off the rim that it is max. 2 minutes to wipe clean again.
it can also be adjusted so fine that the number of oil drops on the rim is very low.
i have been using this scott-oiler with great success for over twenty years (at my fj1200 & hayabusa)
and all my "patients" follow my recommendation and are actually happy with it.

by the way, the chains and rear sprockets easily last 2-3 times longer with the automatic oiler - only the front sprocket needs to be replaced after ca. 30,000 km - his teeth bend backwards - audible through clicks when pushing the bike backwards .
at 2nd - the tension control of the chain decreases to once per 4,000 miles i guess
and
you save lots of cans of spray (for oiling after every 300-400 miles)

better than the oiler is only your chain-box(?)
but how to get it to the busa´s swing arm?

for turbo´s (no vacuum available) scott has an oiler with integrated pump.
my buddy uses this pumped oil(er) for his ´01 turbo and he is happy with it.
 

rubbersidedown

TURBO-BUSA-RIDIN'-BASTID
Donating Member
Registered
you cannot prevent this completely with no chain lubrication.
my only recommendation would be an automatic chain oiler from "rockoil" called "scott-oiler" - the oil is generally so easy to wipe off the rim that it is max. 2 minutes to wipe clean again.
it can also be adjusted so fine that the number of oil drops on the rim is very low.
i have been using this scott-oiler with great success for over twenty years (at my fj1200 & hayabusa)
and all my "patients" follow my recommendation and are actually happy with it.

by the way, the chains and rear sprockets easily last 2-3 times longer with the automatic oiler - only the front sprocket needs to be replaced after ca. 30,000 km - his teeth bend backwards - audible through clicks when pushing the bike backwards .
at 2nd - the tension control of the chain decreases to once per 4,000 miles i guess
and
you save lots of cans of spray (for oiling after every 300-400 miles)

better than the oiler is only your chain-box(?)
but how to get it to the busa´s swing arm?

for turbo´s (no vacuum available) scott has an oiler with integrated pump.
my buddy uses this pumped oil(er) for his ´01 turbo and he is happy with it.
:thumbsup: I've considered one for years. I thought I could wire it thru the kick stand safety switch. Stand down=no oil Stand up=oil flow
Easy right?
The oil line would have to be mounted to my swingarm with some trick mounting because I have air-ride suspension. Sometimes the top of the tire is 1 inch from the fender,sometimes 4-5 inches.
I set it at 4 different pressures.
No air for a solid pull off the line.
Then air for street riding.
Then more air again for carrying pillion.
More air again if she's fat. :laugh:
Rubb.
 
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