Any tips on Fork Seal replacement??????

PsychoJoe

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My 05 Limited just started pouring oil out of left fork ,right is OK anyone know of this happening so early got 6500k also how hard is it to do the job on the inverted forks ,I have done the regular type before,do I need all the special tools in manual or can it be done with some make shift tools as I normally do??? Any infro is appreciated
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I did not ask for help how to ride Dumb A$$, I ask for a little insight on fork seal replacemet ,but I will get it done without any help from A$$ holes like you.
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You download the service manual on the site yet?
You can look through it.
Do you wheelie a lot?
Not being a smarta$$, but that will shorten the life of them.
 
Yea some ,but I dont set down hard ,My old bike did not have any trouble with seals and it was up alot, and I have got the manual but just wondered if all the tools are really needed. Missed your ride other day was gone .



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Yea some ,but I dont set down hard ,My old bike did not have any trouble with seals and it was up alot, and I have got the manual but just wondered if all the tools are really needed.
Can't say for sure if all the tools are needed, as I haven't done the seals yet.
If you need any help let me know and I'll give you a hand.
Your gonna have to teach me how to wheelie whenever we ride.
Out of the whopping 2 or 3 times I intenionally wheelied, I set her down real hard. Surprised I never tore anything up.
 
I'm not that good ,thanks for the offer to help when I get it apart though your welcome to see whats what.
 
I appreciate it ,cant find your # on here ,I thought I added it to contacts,I did find it ,check you later
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I did not ask for help how to ride Dumb A55, I ask for a little insight on fork seal replacemet ,but I will get it done without any help from A55 holes like you.
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Ease up on the hostility champ.

If your bike is still under warranty it should be covered no prob. Try not to give the dealer any idea other than you ride it like an old lady goin' to church. Do not admit to wheelies or straping the front down to trailer the bike.

Ive changed seals before and its not all that much fun unless you have the tools required for the job ( shaft holder, seal driver, front stand, etc. Then you have to realign everything. If you can get it covered your're better off.
 
I appreciate the Infro, only one thing I'm kind of particular on who wrenches on my bike so I try to get some insight on it and do it myself if you know what I mean.
 
Mines just started leaking as well at 23k miles, I dont wheelie the bike so I really don'nt know why it started leaking... oh well time for some Ohlins springs
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Thats what I was thinking since I may want to go ahead and do it myself ,good time to upgrade the springs ,got any cost on the springs and are you going tio do the valves as well?
 
If I'm not mistaken, the Ohlins springs cost somewhere around 100 bucks
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for the pair, I could be wrong... I was thinking of doing the work myself ONLY if I could get access to the right tools
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, if not I'll just have to cough up the extra $$$
 
I got the fork off tonight took about one hour and I had the seal out. I did not use any special tools but it was a little tricky but with a good vise it can be done. Oil that came out looks like 10WT or less. I think I will go back with 15WT.Also now I dont have to worry about someone else having my bike apart in some dirty shop.I dont know why I got the extended warranty when the shops I have seen around here are not who I want working on my bike.
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JUST IN CASE ANYONE IS INTERESTED IN FORK SEAL SHORTCUT
Hemroid now you too know the answer ,you dont need all them tools! Just a little muscle.

I just used a strap around the frame behind the steering head used my 3/4 ton chain hoist supported from main beam in my garage that helped alot.

Then I went by the service manual when you get to the part to take the cap bolt loose instead of all those special tools ,I uesd a pin that fits in the hole in spring spacer .

I placed it tight in my vise pointing up then I laid the fork straight out with pin in hole then I pushed and compressed the spring while reaching the the other end and pulled the cap bolt out and parked the lock nut over the side of the spacer.

Be careful it will stay there by itself I then took it off the pin held in vise and slide a small screwdriver all the way through both holes this will insure it not to jump off ,now you can break loose the lock nut and remove the cap bolt.

Now you still have a lot of presure on spring ,carefully take the screwdriver out and go back to the pin held in vise insert back in hole and compress again and let the lock nut go back in tube and release all the presure.

Now its back to the book fork tube will now come apart and you can change the seals .. You dont have to take the inner rod damper out to change the oil and the seals.. But if you want to go that far it would be best to buy the tool to reach down the tube to get it apart.

To go back just do the reverse order its a little bit tricky getting the lock nut parked on the spacer but not too bad ,dont forget to gauge the correct mm of thread showing before putting cap bolt on.

My fork oil was clean and I just made sure I got all the oil out and I measued what did come out ,putting back correct amount 16.2 / 16.9 OZ I just measured this out and put back 16.5 OZ and made sure all the air was bled out.

It was not a hard job but you must be careful not to mark or mar any of the parts ..Hope this helps someone who wants to do it their self.



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