Any rifle nuts, please explain. Bolt gun versus Pump?
- Thread starter twotonevert
- Start date
Thanks for the link Blanca. 
Just make sure a 'new style mag with plastic floor plate' will work in your gun.
The 'old style with metal plate' is sold out. I just don't know if the only difference between two styles is the floor plate. There may be an old style and new style rifle as well. Numrich has parts for guns you would not think of. They will know as well so call and ask. I think based on serial number they will be able to tell you if it will work.
The 'old style with metal plate' is sold out. I just don't know if the only difference between two styles is the floor plate. There may be an old style and new style rifle as well. Numrich has parts for guns you would not think of. They will know as well so call and ask. I think based on serial number they will be able to tell you if it will work.
masterblaster
Registered
Thx for the link BB, I think I will revive my fist shotgun, a Model 1200 Win 12 ga Pump, just plain wore out.
For reaching out at coyotes hiding behind block walls or engine blocks 
@2K yds.
@2K yds.
masterblaster
Registered
2k yards is too far, inhumane, best to let them get closer 800 yards or less then kill the whole pack quickly. Ensure none of them get away to come back and mess with your sheep and chickens. Remember the farther they are away the more likely the rest will get away after the first shot, even with a 50. Now if you have a 4 deuce (109 today) that kind of range is perfect.
I actually have a friend that's pretty good with the little tactical M-4 out to 800 yds. , but that's definitely not what it's made for
masterblaster
Registered
M4 shorty? I would not go past 500 with a lot of confidence (energy at poi drops pretty fast past 600 with 556), now with my DPMS AR 308 shorty, yeah I would have all their pelts out to 800, with enough ammo, same with the M1A-L. You might surmise, I am pretty humane and cautious, I don't like seeing any animal suffer needlessly, missed a deer during bow season 37 years ago, still feel bad about it.
I actually have a friend that's pretty good with the little tactical M-4 out to 800 yds. , but that's definitely not what it's made for
Saying your rifle kicks a lot has me wondering if the breach is tight in the stock. My brothers 30-06 kicked like a mule and left bruises on my shoulder. My 30-06 would give you a good hit but not bruise you. After looking at both rifles we noticed my brother breach was moving a little. After some custom wood work we were able to tighten it up and it no longer hurts. By the way both rifles are spring field 1903's
Hmm, I am not sure, I would have to take it to a gunsmith to have it checked out.
I think he's talking about the reciever is loose in the stock. An S/A '03 is an old WWI bolt gun and get sloppy in the stock. Reciever is loose, when fired it slams back into stock and stock slams into shoulder giving a 'double punch' to shooter. The slop can only be just a few hundredths or thousandths but is noticeable. This is usually fixed with fiberglass in a process called glass bedding where reciever is removed from stock, stock is filled in key areas with fiberglass resin and reciever is placed back into stock. Upon drying there will be no more slop or movement.
Your guns a pump with a separate wood rear stock screwed to back of reciever. It may wiggle but will not be loose.
The breech of a weapon is the chamber area where round goes into. This is a fixed metal area which does not move. It may wear out over time but it will not move or become loose.,
Your guns a pump with a separate wood rear stock screwed to back of reciever. It may wiggle but will not be loose.
The breech of a weapon is the chamber area where round goes into. This is a fixed metal area which does not move. It may wear out over time but it will not move or become loose.,
Yes Blanca you are correct. The breach may be loose in the stock and it doesn't take much to cause a problem. Although Blanca does make a good point about your rifle being a pump action and my connect differently.
Also if you find a little slop in the stock / breach area you may also want to check to make sure your barrel is not touching any part of your stock. This is called a floating barrel. If there is one point of your stock touching the barrel it acts like a radiator and cools that part of the barrel faster. As the barrel heats and cools unevenly it causes the barrel to warps slightly in the direction of the cooled area. After the barrel cools down it becomes straight. This won't hurt the rifle but it will make it all but impossible to zero. This can be checked by running a dollar bill between the stock and barrel all the back to the breach, any spot that catches should be inspected to ensure it doesn't touch.
Of douse this is from my competition shooting days. I hope this also helps other members here.
Thanks again Blanca for explaining better than I.
Also if you find a little slop in the stock / breach area you may also want to check to make sure your barrel is not touching any part of your stock. This is called a floating barrel. If there is one point of your stock touching the barrel it acts like a radiator and cools that part of the barrel faster. As the barrel heats and cools unevenly it causes the barrel to warps slightly in the direction of the cooled area. After the barrel cools down it becomes straight. This won't hurt the rifle but it will make it all but impossible to zero. This can be checked by running a dollar bill between the stock and barrel all the back to the breach, any spot that catches should be inspected to ensure it doesn't touch.
Of douse this is from my competition shooting days. I hope this also helps other members here.
Thanks again Blanca for explaining better than I.
Similar threads
