Any Dodge Mechanic--Please help.

NCBusa2001

Registered
Ok, I'm at wits end and need help from the board.

Here's the story in short. I have a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 crew cab 4X4 4.7L short bed with 52,000 miles. I drive farily hard but nothing extreme. It's been off road but I've never been "4 wheeling" per say with this truck.

Driving along one sunny day about 50-60mph and the abs light and the brake light come on. I can feel the truck hesitate for a split second every so often but still doing fine overall. A few miles later, closer to home, the engine light comes on and the speedodometer starts going crazy, but still doing fine as far as driving. I drop the kids off and head to the Dodge place.

They pull the codes and come back with a intermittent signal to the read speed sensor. They pull it out and it has been "chewed up" as the put it. They replace it, $200 later, and I get my truck back. Drive to the beach within 100 miles of getting my truck back. Along the way the abs and brake light come back on. I figured the connection or something had come loose so we continue the drive. Well I was riding the busa and Kim was technically driving the support vehicle.

On the drive back the lights stay on fairly constantly, but would go off if the car was turned off and back on. Get to the same dealership and give them the story. They pull the sensor and it was "clogged" with metal fragments. They tell me that they need to change the fluid to get the fragments out. Only cost me $350 to do it. I kind of feel the foreplay to the rape about to happen, but say OK.

I get a call this morning at work (before coffee) stating that there is a problem and they need $1300 (or more) to fix it. So I go down after work to see for myself.

On the right side of the picure the bearing hold down (cant remember the name) is chewed up on the side facing the ring gear. The "round piece" has a lot of play in it and appears to have caused the "chewing".

What the Dodge people are telling me is that the "clutches" are bad (round stacked discs on the inside of the ring gear). The "round piece" is a retainer that should never be loose and that a piece is broken "in there".

They have told me that I need to replace the whole carrier, which includes all the "guts" inside the differential. With the exception of the ring gear and pinion gear. They also want to replace all the bearings (due to the metal dust possibly being on them).

The have stated that the carrier could not be taken apart and that Chrysler doesn't even make a tool to work on it. Nor do they sell any individual parts for it (like the "round piece") They also stated that the "chewed" bearing hold down does not need to be replaced.

Now to my question.

Is what they are telling me true and what are my possible options.

I appreciate anyone chiming in on this that has any experience in this area. I'm fairly decent at doing my own mechanic work but I don't trust myself on a truck I still owe $20,000 on.

Bless y'all, Chris

truckrear2.jpg
 
not a Mopar man... but see if aftermarket stuff is available, a tuffer ring n' pinion set, some Timkin or similar beefier bearings, you dont need this hassle again from that stock shid.
 
RSD, thanks I was actually going to look for a Jegs catalog. I just find it hard to believe that they don't offer inividual parts for the carrier. It would make sense only to replace what actually broke.

Diesel, will do.

Hopefully someone here is into Mopar. Chris
 
Every large town has at least one guy that everyone knows is the best at third members or transmissions or engines or ?, anyway in San Diego it is John @ Border Parts 619 461 0171. If he cant help you no one can.
 
hey bra i just changed my rams ring and pinion from 3.93 to the 4.10 all new bearings and all. 800 dollars included wheel bearings and seals. find a gear shop in the area and get a quote for a ring and pinion job on your ram. then have it towed there if need be you will still save money. if it aint under warrenty never use the dealer. they will stick ya everytime. they always have the highest shop rates and lowest quality of work. i prefer the small shops with old guys working there. they tend to be more picky in how the job gets done.

imo hope this helps a bit
 
Chris,Take it to Springlake to "Competition Auto" ask for Carl, he's the best mechanic in I've ever seen and the owner of the shop, he also owns a ram 4x4 and knows the diffs very well as he has changed the gears himself. He's ASE certified master technician and knows his sheat! Take it to him and tell him that Tony sent you, I used to work there before I got my present gig. He'll treat you right and gaurantees his work.NJ.:;):
 
This should be covered under your drivetrain's 5 year, 60,000 mile warrenty, unless trucks don't get the same deal as cars.
 
It is true that if you have a rear that is limited slip you can not get individual parts for that carrier, it is a whole assembly. As for the comments about the dealer being the worst place to take your car, I have worked for Chrysler Dodge Jeep Toyota Chevrolet dealers for the past 13 years and I can tell you that parts have been sold out of here to plenty of after market shops that for instance a 200.00 wheel from us became a 450.00 dollar wheel there. So you may pay 70.00 an hour as opposed to 90.00 an hour but watch what you pay for everythong else. And as for thge worst service, We have fixed plenty of stuff that has come from an aftermarket shop that they screwed up. So my point is make sure where ever you take your car make sure it is a good shop not one trying to take your money. After market as well as some dealers will rip you off but not ALL.
 
gd4gvn... i must agree its 6 of 1 and 1/2 dozen of the other. you can get the shaft at either. i just got used to finding a trust worthy mech for a cheeper rate and order my own parts. and thats if i dont/cant do it myself. i gotta say i have used dealer mechs on a personal basis and saved cash and got some kick butt work done.
 
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