Another why is my tire doing this thread

GXR1147

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To start off with, the tire is a pilot power 3. Items replaced today and haven't ridden on the new one yet. Always checked tire pressure before riding and when I'm not riding it, it sits on front and rear stands. Pressure was always set to 38 psi. I'm not even sure if that's a proper place for it to be, that's just what I did. I also weigh in at 230 lbs. road conditions are usually twisties by it's been to Canada and back on highways. And it's a turbo bike, so it's been on the long straights to stretch its legs once or twice (only to the speed limit of course). Forks were redone about 2 years ago when the seals needed to be done. I'm not sure to what extent the guy who redid them went. But fresh fluid at the minimum at the time. Unfortunately he has sense passed so I can't ask him. I am also completely ignorant when it comes to suspension. I just get on it and ride it. The flat spot in the center I'm sure is from the highway riding. The rest, I'm clueless. What do you guys think?

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Do both sides of the tire look the same? I had a similar problem on my gen1, used the string method to align it, and new tires , problem solved. Not sure if it was the tire or the alignment.
 
Yeah, same on both side. This is a gen 1 as well. I guess I should have mentioned it's not lowered or stretched either.
 
You are too heavy for proper sag on stock fork springs.
38psi is fine on the highway.
36 and even 34 is good for railing corners.
36/36psi cold is a good spot for all around riding.
Keep in mind the psi will rise 2-4 as the tires warm up.
Add 1 psi to the rear for a passenger.
Lots of highway, 38psi cold.
To each their own opinion, but my personal opinion has been, from many sets of Pilots, and on different bikes, that they are finicky tires, in terms of, small psi changes make a big difference in their handling, based on how you are riding at the time, highway or corners.
Otherwise, the front tire is cupped from improper suspension setting.
And, as said, you can't get proper sag on stock springs at your weight.
You need your forks rebuilt with springs for your weight.
Then, have the bike's suspension sag set.
You the rider sit on it, your body weight, and in any gear your wear, weight.
It is adjusted to function at it's best.
Handling will be night and day better, less brake dive, better tire contact with the road, shorter brake stops resulting, as well as traction is improved.
It's also much smoother, and less tiring.
There is no bandaid or alternative either.
 
Did you just call me fat? Lol

Unfortunately the guy I would see about it has passed. So I gotta find someone/where else to address this. Thanks for the insight. What weight are factory springs good till? So just springs and settings will cure this issue then?
 
I know, I'm kidding. Just sucks to have to go through all that after everything that I just did to it over the winter.
 
Nice wheel rim, I'm jealous lol.
You said "I am also completely ignorant when it comes to suspension. I just get on it and ride it."..... Well it's time you learned because it is NOT difficult to check and set suspension sag and settings.
There is so much good info on the subject, and it's so satisfying to set up your own bike instead of giving it to someone else and hoping they know what they are doing.
So give it a go, it's a step by step process, hey, if I can do it anyone can!
Here's a Kiwi that can help you fill in the blanks..
 
Stock fork springs aren't good for much over 200lbs.
I don't know what you wear for gear, but full leathers, boots, and helmet weigh roughly 20-25lbs, so add that to your 230lbs, if you haven't already.
Stock rear spring will be ok, as it's sag will be set with the front, they are always set together. If the front sag is perfect and the rear is off, or vice versa, the whole ride suffers. Anyone who knows what they're doing knows that anyway.
So yeah, all you need is fork springs for your weight, and proper front and rear suspension sag.
If you want to get good at cornering, you will need to adjust the sag on the road side.
Which is the equivalent of turning the small knobs on the tops and bottoms of the forks and rear shock, with a small flat blade screw driver. Counting clicks of half turns and turns left and right. Adjusting the compression and rebound. The preload should be fine from the initial setup.
It is actually all very simple.
Have whoever sets the sag for you explain what they are doing, it'll help seeing it.
Search here for "Jinkster attacks suspension", he shows sag setup on a gen1 Busa, which is basically the same as most sportbikes.
You can also watch suspension
Did you just call me fat? Lol

Unfortunately the guy I would see about it has passed. So I gotta find someone/where else to address this. Thanks for the insight. What weight are factory springs good till? So just springs and settings will cure this issue then?

Stock springs aren't much good if you're over 200lbs
Yep, new fork springs and proper sag is what you need.
Once you learn how to set sag, you can get an idea fine tuning on the road side.
You can also tell what adjustment needs made based on tire appearance.
 
Nice wheel rim, I'm jealous lol.

Thanks. They are made by RK Excel. Called the "super sport" iirc. Found a company listing them on eBay for $1500 with a "call for more discounted prices" line in the ad. He gave me another $100 and still free shipping. I have no complaints until it's time to clean em. A lot more surfaces then the factory wheels.
 
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