Another Water Injection Question Thread

GXR1147

GXR1147

Registered
so its time to get a little more out of my RCC stage 1 (currently 235hp @ 7.5lbs on stock motor with .080" spacer, cam gears , head studs). So I'm looking at water injection kits. Snow, AEM, RCC etc. initially I was just going to go with the RCC kit but the price is what made start to look around. I've been eyeing the snow stage 2 kit at the moment but wanted to see what everyone else was running and I was hoping to see how/where people are mounting everything up. From what I can gather on the intrawebs, every pump on the market now is of a larger size than what was available a few years ago, with bypass pumps being better then switched pumps. Looking for pros and cons, do's and don'ts and any other information that I can get. I like drama free installs and results when ever possible.
Thanks
 
RCC is pricey but set up well. Pump is good and the controller is set to come on at boost. Super nice set up. I installed this myself.
Save and get an intercooler problem solved permanently.
 
Have a look here for more info, the pump size is ideal for the bike.
https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/waterinjection.html
Basically the pump that everybody else (i don't know what size and type pump RCC offers) uses is big and heavy for a bike.
In my mind water injection is not a substitute for an intercooler but a way to heavily increase the fuel's octane rating and/or increase timing advance thus i use both on my bike, something really helpful if the fuel quality where you live is not a given thing.
 
I'm basically wanting to break the 300hp mark. For simplicity I figured injection would be the best best route. Is an air to air intercooler suitable (if I can find one for a reasonable price) or does it not do enough and have to be air to water? Also not really interested in blocking the radiator as I currently dont have any temp issues and in not looking to create one if I can avoid it.
 
You will be able to break 300 rear wheel with a properly setup water injection kit and pump fuel. RB racing setups come with a Hobbs switch - which means that when the trigger pressure is reached, the system will dump its full load right away. This is old school. RCC's kit comes with a progressive controller - you set both the low and high boost pressures, so when it initially triggers, it will spray progressively and reach its final full volume at the top pressure. No Hobbs switch is used or required. The pump itself is high pressure and small enough to fit in the side of the tail on both Gen 1 and Gen 2 Busas. At $750, it is only slightly higher than RB's kit and has better components. Hell, we used Hobb's switches back in the 80s, definitely not the way to go.

Take a look:

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/threads/rcc-water-methanol-injection-kits-from-powerhouse.186371/
 
GXR1147 said:
I'm basically wanting to break the 300hp mark. For simplicity I figured injection would be the best best route. Is an air to air intercooler suitable (if I can find one for a reasonable price) or does it not do enough and have to be air to water? Also not really interested in blocking the radiator as I currently dont have any temp issues and in not looking to create one if I can avoid it.
Click to expand...

I have your set up on my gen 1 and decided to go with the AEM kit to make around 300hp. I like their controller. I currently am using a kit similar to cooling mist stage 1 http://www.coolingmist.com/product-page/stage-1-snowmobile-methanol-injection-kit and has worked well the past 4 years at 257hp. I am going to try to integrate the AEM controller into my setup. Maybe have to get the pump too. For a water container I use a camelpak bladder and it works great!
 
IMG_6512.JPG
I'm using an AEM system it's progressive and fully adjustable,my pump is on a plate I've made that fits on the rear wing under fairing! It all "just fits" and I use there 1 gallon tank too
 
My first water injection setup was a boost driven mist into the Turbo inlet
cost me like $50.. higher boost = higher spray volume
 
IMG_4507.JPG
I see I'm not the only one with the "lack-a-space" issue on our dash areas. I completely trust the quality of the RCC kit. But if I can do the same thing for around $300 less and no one else is having quality issues...I have a hard time spending the extra money. the snow and AEM kits are also progressive also W/the AEM pump being a bypass style as well, I think the snow pump was switched but not 100% sure. I like that snows controller is also a boost gauge as well which would allow me to not need to find a space for it and just put in place of my current one. I'm already trying to find another location to mount it so I can get rid of the tiger racing plate sense I moved the LCD 200. Even if I went with the snow or AEM kit I would still want to use the larger RCC tank. Screwy, did you try to see if the AEM pump will fit under the tail fairing at all? I was thinking in the void towards the rear, past the brake reservoir area.
 
It is totally unnecessary to mount the Aem controller in the dash area, it can reside under the passenger seat. Once it is set up, there is no need to mess with it. I have seen customers mount AMS1000 boost controllers on the triple tree- again, not something you mess with once set, and also not a good idea. Here is why: not only do you have the wiring twisting back and forth every time you turn the steering, but you also subject that component to constant shock and vibration. I have seen failures because of this. You have more room in the tail, and it is a better environment. BTW, the high pressure pump in the RCC water injection kit fits very nicely under the tail on the right side of the bike on both Gens.
 
Totally agree makes no logical sense to mount a BC or any controller up there other then an AMS 2000 selector switch which allows me to change boost levels and tunes with the flip of a switch. otherwise you risk vibration issues and it simply getting wet or ripped off by some sugar who will just replace the wires.

POWERHOUSE said:
It is totally unnecessary to mount the Aem controller in the dash area, it can reside under the passenger seat. Once it is set up, there is no need to mess with it. I have seen customers mount AMS1000 boost controllers on the triple tree- again, not something you mess with once set, and also not a good idea. Here is why: not only do you have the wiring twisting back and forth every time you turn the steering, but you also subject that component to constant shock and vibration. I have seen failures because of this. You have more room in the tail, and it is a better environment. BTW, the high pressure pump in the RCC water injection kit fits very nicely under the tail on the right side of the bike on both Gens.
Click to expand...
 
Frank, some where someone told me that gen 1 ECMs (mines an 06) have the ability to run a second map in them from the factory. If that is true, are you able to run a failsafe set up like AEM's off the ECM directly? Like it's an unused pin off the ECM that would just need a pin installed in the harness plug.
 
GXR1147 said:
Who's pump is that you have mounted? Cooling mist?
That RCC pump fits nicely. The cost of that RCC kit is the killer though.
Click to expand...
Yes its an older style cooling mist pump. I think AEM used it or something like it in an older kit they sold. The new ones in either kit are thinner.
 
You still need something to read O2, the stock ecu won't do it. In over thirty years on turbo bikes, I can tell you that in my experience things happen very quickly on turbos, especially Busas. I wouldn't put much faith in any failsafe device with the idea that it is somehow going to save the day.
By the time that setup reacts to a critical lean condition and sends a signal to pull timing and dump fuel, the damage will already be done, IMHO.
 
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