Burnt... smoky black with a lil white on them off memory...
Another 01 with staring troubles
- Thread starter Krudd93
- Start date
Berlin Germany
Registered
test the compression at all 4
just to be able to exclude this source of error
it should be around 174-232 psi, max difference 3 psi
and please open full the throttle when testing.
who doesn´t breathe can´t compress.
and,
the so-called choke is a pure increase in the idle gas - the throttle flaps are opened a tiny bit.
the amount of fuel the motor gets more by this (TPS) is also a tiny bit more than pure idle.
so i think this can´t make your sparks black / get sooty.
gingerly (?) question : is the exhaust mounted? for me - the sound is a bit of a motor without exhaust.
just to be able to exclude this source of error
it should be around 174-232 psi, max difference 3 psi
and please open full the throttle when testing.
who doesn´t breathe can´t compress.
and,
the so-called choke is a pure increase in the idle gas - the throttle flaps are opened a tiny bit.
the amount of fuel the motor gets more by this (TPS) is also a tiny bit more than pure idle.
so i think this can´t make your sparks black / get sooty.
gingerly (?) question : is the exhaust mounted? for me - the sound is a bit of a motor without exhaust.
Kiwi Rider
Registered
In my opinion fwiw, the plugs are fouled, OR... a fueling issue (over fueling) is causing them to foul.
The first thing to do is check fuel is fresh and plenty of it, and check oil level in engine is NOT over full.
Next do a compression test.
Then if compression is good and even across all cylinders, fit brand new plugs,
Next test spark strength and color (blue) at plug tips.
Next test fuel pressure and supply to injectors.
Next test injector pulse is ok on all 4 injectors.
Next test spray pattern at all 4 injectors.
Next test for excessive voltage drop under starting current load (battery load test)
Add jump pack to battery to be sure of good spark and fast cranking speed.
And providing all the above checks out ok . . start the engine.
If running rough or poorley, test sensors etc . . . .
It's near on impossible to accurately diagnose a starting/running fault such as this just by watching a 14 second vid of one and a half starting attempts.
If I could have that bike in my workshop within 30 minutes I could have a pretty good idea of what is causing the issue you have. But I don't and I can't have your bike to look at.
So what I mean to say is, you either get it to a good mechanic experienced in bikes like the Busa, or . . you may get lucky and you get it started and it never faults again . . . long shot but hey, who knows?
The first thing to do is check fuel is fresh and plenty of it, and check oil level in engine is NOT over full.
Next do a compression test.
Then if compression is good and even across all cylinders, fit brand new plugs,
Next test spark strength and color (blue) at plug tips.
Next test fuel pressure and supply to injectors.
Next test injector pulse is ok on all 4 injectors.
Next test spray pattern at all 4 injectors.
Next test for excessive voltage drop under starting current load (battery load test)
Add jump pack to battery to be sure of good spark and fast cranking speed.
And providing all the above checks out ok . . start the engine.
If running rough or poorley, test sensors etc . . . .
It's near on impossible to accurately diagnose a starting/running fault such as this just by watching a 14 second vid of one and a half starting attempts.
If I could have that bike in my workshop within 30 minutes I could have a pretty good idea of what is causing the issue you have. But I don't and I can't have your bike to look at.
So what I mean to say is, you either get it to a good mechanic experienced in bikes like the Busa, or . . you may get lucky and you get it started and it never faults again . . . long shot but hey, who knows?
Q
I'm currently having the same issue with my spark plug fouling but my starting is not the same as yours I've done everything kiwi has listed and narrow mind down to the fuel pump regulator I'm getting 62 PSI to the fuel rail instead of the 44 PSI. Hopefully you'll get it figured out soon
Exactly That is a fast idle only not a choke. The Busa is fuel injected and does not use a choke. Using that is like twisting the throttle when trying to start it. You're just dumping more fuel in the system then is needed and risk flooding it. It does sound like it's cranking a little slow, how old is your battery?
Lol thanks... brought new plugs an going to check injectors an change fuel pump filter after I do all of that an see..well off to the shop is next... it does start just ruff an after a ride it's really bad... sorry for the short vid.
Exhaust is mointed..... an I'm getting killed on the choke thing smh... use to lawnmowerterms lol... ok have to find someone to do compression test...test the compression at all 4
just to be able to exclude this source of error
it should be around 174-232 psi, max difference 3 psi
and please open full the throttle when testing.
who doesn´t breathe can´t compress.
and,
the so-called choke is a pure increase in the idle gas - the throttle flaps are opened a tiny bit.
the amount of fuel the motor gets more by this (TPS) is also a tiny bit more than pure idle.
so i think this can´t make your sparks black / get sooty.
gingerly (?) question : is the exhaust mounted? for me - the sound is a bit of a motor without exhaust.
Just bought battery last season...
Vanishing Point
Registered
Last time you did sync tb's
Is TPS in middle clock dash , Can see if you put it in dealer mode ( paperclip trick)
Charge the battery full , in rest voltage after 12H , it must be 12,79 V or over
Put Voltmeter on when you start and see how many Volts dropping
I will post a picture from Long shaft type ( green label startermotor 03-07 upgrade kit
Pic TPS setting
Is TPS in middle clock dash , Can see if you put it in dealer mode ( paperclip trick)
Charge the battery full , in rest voltage after 12H , it must be 12,79 V or over
Put Voltmeter on when you start and see how many Volts dropping
I will post a picture from Long shaft type ( green label startermotor 03-07 upgrade kit
Pic TPS setting
Check with your local autoparts store. Most of them have tool rental and should have a compression tester kit.
Like Vanishing Point said. Check your battery voltage. You may have a bad cell.
Voltage was good on the battery got that checked..pulled fuel pump no rust an changed strainer... will do compression next then injectors....smh this poop is crazy.. then starter...
Did battery an voltage was good.
Mr Brown
Registered
Not sure how your battery voltage was good if you needed a new stator, but glad it's running good!
Thanks for reporting back.
Right..bs mechanics!! That's why I didnt go back...2nd time I got shammed info...
I charge the battery before I took it...so I'm guessing they just check the battery... I read another post on here about the c11 code an he exactly what i did still had the starting issue...buttttt he spent 2k an I spent 145... but he found out it was the stator after that fact, so that made think an it was right.... not even a full spin an its on.. Next mission block off plates the dyno tube an I'm done!!
Mr Brown
Registered
Learn to do what you can yourself, that way you know it's not a bs story.
Trust me I am...did the stator.. rectifier will be here tuesday.... I'm handy an like to learn an I learned the best is using your hands.... still have more tools to get..volt meter is on of them... but really appreciate every bodies input... now looking up how to do block off plates....
Mr Brown
Registered
Block offs are fairly simple. The stator is straightforward, get a cover gasket. Remember it's magnetic and watch your fingers putting the new one in.
The stator I did this morning...just went for quick ride about an hr ago...perfect ride... I changed the cover last season so I was familiar with that...an a new gasket.. blocks offs look simple but I keep hear about a pair valve so that's the info I'm looking for not really an good vids so far...
Similar threads
