And tightening the oil filter?

AJAY

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I recall that the factory manual specs for you to tighten the oil filter TWO FULL TURNS after the gasket touches. This is wayyy more than you do for a normal auto oil filter (typically 1.25 to 1.5 turns). Last time I changed mine I had a hard time doing it without the end cap wrench.

I bought the wrench last year, but now I can't find the d@mned thing.

Seems too tight anyway. I once had a filter fail on my old jeep from over tightening, so two turns makes me paranoid.

Your experience?
 
Hand tight! K&N makes good oil filters too, and they come with the nut built onto the end for tightening with a wrench(just snug). That nut also has a hole through it so you can safety wire the filter, that way it can't back off.
 
I just did my change and I went hand tight.

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I follow what it says on the filter (K&N in my case, and I think it specifies torque and not how many turns), and I do use the wrench to tighten it. You are right on not overtightening it.

I'd say hand tight is not tight enough. I think it was something like 6 lbxft. Just start the engine and check for leaks - if no leaks you are good to go. Just check one more time after a ride, and that does it.
 
I have always hand tightened my oil filters on all my bikes. I have yet to run into one that has leaked.
 
I have always hand tightened my oil filters on all my bikes. I have yet to run into one that has leaked.

I do the same, I usually just tighten to where I can cant turn it anymore bare handed. I never had a problem on my 05, but I will continually check for leaks for the next week or so.
 
Agree with the hand tightening. I just wonder why Suzuki specifies TWO full turns. That seems really excessive to me!
 
I hand tighten mine and then go a 1/4 turn past with a wrench. Never had a problem so far


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2 turns after it touches done it this way for some 20 yrs now

do it to a POS k&n and it will leak

think it is too tighy check out the torque spec on a Kawi.


PS I ONLY USE OEM PERIOD
 
Pretty sure K&N specs are 3/4 turn past first gasket contact which is about what I do.
I worked in the pit at a quick lube place called Grease Monkey here many years ago and they always had us do same, between 3/4 to 1 turn past first gasket contact. After three years and 1000s of filters later I never had a problem. I've done same on all my bikes all my life.
 
I hand tighten it, then about a 1/2 turn with a wrench.
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If you look at the oem filter you will see it has a big kooshy O-Ring seal. Many of the aftermarket ones have a flat rubber seal.

I do two turns from contact on the oems and follow the manufacturers instructions for anything else.
 
Hand tighten the filter also..Have done it for years that way..Also hand tighten the oil filter also on all my vehicles..Hardly ever have to use a oil filter wrench to take them oof..Have had great luck that way..
 
I oil up the o-ring and screw it on hand tight. Never had an issue comes right back off the next change without a lot of effort or grunting.
 
Purolator filter as per a thread here ... use 2x from the very first touch of the gasket. Kinda freaky though as it is really tight ... certainly more than hand tight. Interesting thread though ... Question "Does the oil pressure on the filter go up at higher engine RPMs?" I hand tighten the filter on my truck but follow the book on the Busa (2 turns past gasket touch).
 
I'm wondering if the 2 full turns is specific to Suzuki's design of the ring seal at the edge of the can and that this might not apply at all to a different brand of oil filter. Specifically, the design of o-ring and other seals is not a trivial matter. Look at the specs in Machinery's Handbook (the machinist's "bible"). The groove dimensions and squish band are quite specific. Maybe the seal is different on the Suzuki filter compared to other filters (material, dimensions). But given the experiences posted here, I think it would be safe to just use whatever the manufacturer of the FILTER specifies, Zook factory manual be d@mend!
 
Look at my previous post. "Big kooshy o-ring" on OEM Looks different than the others I have seen. I believe the manufacturer knows best for their product so I follow what they say exactly and you have a case if it goes wrong. Their engineers design to their standards and publish to that design standard. Not an engineer but the weapons maintainer in me has me follow the technical data. If Fram says 1 1/2, K&N says 1 1/2 then do so. Suzuki says 2 so I do it exactly and have no worries.
 
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