Air Shifter Help Gen 2 Help

sjg34

Registered
I thought I had my air shifter working and went to the track and it wouldn't shift.
My setup was a boost by smith horn harness plugged plugged into the GPS plug with the woolich quick shifter and race tools active. First pass it worked perfect then it the following passes it wouldn't make the shifts consistently . I just pulled the woolich quick shifter from the circuit and loaded an old bin file with the quick shifter option and took it down the road and it still will not shift. I can hear the ignition cut at lower rps but on the street it won't make the shift. The quick shifter is set for a resistor setup. What are you guys using resistor or dsm with the boost by smith harness? Is anyone using a the woolich quick shifter option or are you just using ecu editor? I have another points race this weekend and I would like to get this working
 
I use DSM and you don't need a harness. Ditch the horn. Hook the hot wire from the horn connector to the shifter solenoid. Hook the ground wire from the horn to the solenoid AND to the DSM input on the ECU. Reflash with ECU Editor appropriately. This works great all the bikes I've set up.
 
I have an auto shift function that provides a ground. I guess I will need a relay or something to make it work. Do you run an auto shift?
 
I use DSM and you don't need a harness. Ditch the horn. Hook the hot wire from the horn connector to the shifter solenoid. Hook the ground wire from the horn to the solenoid AND to the DSM input on the ECU. Reflash with ECU Editor appropriately. This works great all the bikes I've set up.
no gps plugin reqtired using dsm?
 
No GPS. It is as simple as I described.

I have an autoshift - just tie the ground trigger from that to the same wire going to ECU and solenoid ground. No relay required for that. The horn is switched ground trigger, the autoshift should be switched ground trigger, and the ECU needs a ground trigger so it is all direct wired. The power from the horn is continuous hot when the ignition is on but the solenoid has no ground until you push the horn or autoshift triggers.
 
I used Dennis's way it worked awesome. I dropped off the ecu to the tuner he put the kill time on it and works perfect.

It's really simple. I asked him a few times but if your good at wiring you'll be done in no time. Im far from a electrical whiz.
 
Help
I had the air shifter and auto shift work perfectly the first pass and then every pass there after it has progressively gotten worse. Today I changed over to the DMS mode and it will not shift at high rpm either. I can verify the ignition is being killed. I have 70ms kill time and i am only killing the ignition. Do i need to kill the fuel also? I don't know what could have changed from the first pass when it was perfect. Does anyone have any suggestions? could the problem be in the solenoid?
 
I've been thinking about getting another co2 shifter(had a Cycle-Tek on my old turbo bike,should've never sold it)with the auto shift this time and see MPS has one.Is it a SOB to get all hooked up(come with detailed instructions,diagrams,etc.?)or can/should not the sharpest tool in the shed like myself take a stab at it?I'm pretty much on my own out here since my builder moved back to Phoenix last year and don't want to screw stuff up.
 
.give it a try. It wasn't that bad. My issue was I didn't get one of the fitting tight.
 
You can get a good price on a shifter kit from Dynotunenitrous.com Best price by far from what I've found.

Talk to Dan and he will set you up with what you need, not just a standard kit. Tell him Dennis from Iowa sent you.

Hook it up and flash like I describe above ... it is easy.

You will have to modify the clevis slightly to fit over the shift lever. You will want to drill out the mounting hole on the top of the cylinder so that a 5/16 bolt fits through that you put into the engine mounting bolt.
 
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