adding teeth, taking teeth aWAY QUESTION?
- Thread starter Two
- Start date
No map, nothing in the engine has changed. SpeedoHealer, yes.
^^this^^
in case you missed it, more knowledge in this similar thread: https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gene...dding-teeth-taking-teeth-away-whats-deal.html
Adox
Registered
HAYABUSA GEAR RATIO - SPEED IN GEARS
Gearing 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th
16/39 77 104 132 157 178 194
16/40 75 101 129 153 173 189
16/41 73 99 126 150 169 184
16/42 72 97 123 146 165 180
16/43 70 95 120 143 161 176
17/39 82 111 141 167 189 206
17/40 80 108 137 163 184 201
17/41 78 105 134 159 180 196
17/42 76 103 131 155 176 191
17/43 74 100 128 152 171 187
18/39 87 117 149 177 200 218
18/40 85 114 145 173 195 212
18/41 83 112 142 168 190 207
18/42 81 109 138 164 186 202
18/43 79 106 135 161 182 198
19/39 92 124 157 187 211 230
19/40 89 121 153 182 206 224
19/41 87 118 150 178 201 219
19/42 85 115 146 173 196 214
19/43 83 112 143 170 192 209
Gearing 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th
16/39 77 104 132 157 178 194
16/40 75 101 129 153 173 189
16/41 73 99 126 150 169 184
16/42 72 97 123 146 165 180
16/43 70 95 120 143 161 176
17/39 82 111 141 167 189 206
17/40 80 108 137 163 184 201
17/41 78 105 134 159 180 196
17/42 76 103 131 155 176 191
17/43 74 100 128 152 171 187
18/39 87 117 149 177 200 218
18/40 85 114 145 173 195 212
18/41 83 112 142 168 190 207
18/42 81 109 138 164 186 202
18/43 79 106 135 161 182 198
19/39 92 124 157 187 211 230
19/40 89 121 153 182 206 224
19/41 87 118 150 178 201 219
19/42 85 115 146 173 196 214
19/43 83 112 143 170 192 209
rockethead
Registered
So what's the stock gearing? Isn't it 17/40??
No and No. Depending on the change you could actually somewhat correct the speedo depending on the bike and where it was to begin with, but that's my whole point ; the Gen I is absoluetly gonna be off 3% to 10% from the factory. So if you want to correct your speedo buy something to do that with, but you've been dealing with an inaccurate one from the word go, so it's not necessary that you fix it now, but it might be something you wish to do.
rockethead
Registered
it looks pretty straight forward, i plan on doing it myself when my new (to me ) wheels come in... do you have the service manual? download it for free man, I don't have the link but I found it on here , do a search...
and when changing rear sprocket you should swap front one too. no sense in replacing the chain and rear when the front is still wore out. gonna wear out new chain/rear sprocket faster...
and when changing rear sprocket you should swap front one too. no sense in replacing the chain and rear when the front is still wore out. gonna wear out new chain/rear sprocket faster...
No it's not hard. You need a rear stand, a torque wrench(rear axle is 72.5 ft lbs) a dremel or grinder to remove the master link, as well as a chain press tool to seperate it and reinstall the new masterlink(a C clamp can be used). An impact wrench really helps when trying to remove the nut on the front sprocket(or a long 1/2"drive breaker bar), and it is a right hand thread. Break it loose first, before removing the chain, you need something to keep the sprocket from turning. The gen2 front sprocket nut and rear axle nut are both 36mm, I don't remember what the gen1 is. You'll also need a 10mm and a 12mm wrench, or two 12mm's, can't remember that either, for adjusting the chain slack. Also an 8mm or 10mm socket to remove the bolts from the front sprocket cover, and a 14mm for the rear sprocket nuts. If you have stock or dual mufflers, there's one nut where the pipe attaches to the header, and the one on the passenger peg.
Post your location, you may be near one of us who have the tools and would gladly walk you through it for free. It's a good thing to know how to do. If you don't have the tools needed, they are worth buying as they will pay for themselves and still save you alot in the long run as opposed to continuing to pay a shop. The service manual is a free download here, and the whole job is very simple.
This is also only a reference. Real world factors such as available hp/trq, wind, elevation, ect. all need to be considered. Just because you have a certain gearing doesn't mean the coresponding speeds are going to be what the bike will do.
No it's not hard. You need a rear stand, a torque wrench(rear axle is 72.5 ft lbs) a dremel or grinder to remove the master link, as well as a chain press tool to seperate it and reinstall the new masterlink(a C clamp can be used). An impact wrench really helps when trying to remove the nut on the front sprocket(or a long 1/2"drive breaker bar), and it is a right hand thread. Break it loose first, before removing the chain, you need something to keep the sprocket from turning. The gen2 front sprocket nut and rear axle nut are both 36mm, I don't remember what the gen1 is. You'll also need a 10mm and a 12mm wrench, or two 12mm's, can't remember that either, for adjusting the chain slack. Also an 8mm or 10mm socket to remove the bolts from the front sprocket cover, and a 14mm for the rear sprocket nuts. If you have stock or dual mufflers, there's one nut where the pipe attaches to the header, and the one on the passenger peg.
Post your location, you may be near one of us who have the tools and would gladly walk you through it for free. It's a good thing to know how to do. If you don't have the tools needed, they are worth buying as they will pay for themselves and still save you alot in the long run as opposed to continuing to pay a shop. The service manual is a free download here, and the whole job is very simple.
Nice write up sixpack577, thanks
Sure man, your welcome.
RJB
Registered
i got a question for you since we are talking about gearing
i have 16/43 for drag racing
but i now have a extra rim for racing
so what gear could i put out back to get close to stock without changing the front 16
so all i have to do is change out the back tire for street and track
i have 16/43 for drag racing
but i now have a extra rim for racing
so what gear could i put out back to get close to stock without changing the front 16
so all i have to do is change out the back tire for street and track
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