Adams Air Shifter Brackets Thoughts

[sjg34]

I just installed the Adams air shifter bracket and it fits nice. It took me a while to get everything adjusted the way I want and I still need to clearance the side stand switch but this is nice. It appears the loads will be applied correctly and I will not have issues with the shift rod bending as I have witnessed on other setups.

 

[Dennis]

The horizontal setups look nice, but I've never had a problem with the much more simple vertical mounting.

 

[mjl3truck]

So you are using the Woolich pressure switch then.
Curious to see how it works out. Nels at 2WDW says they are great but my Danos works fine too and I don't want to pony up the $$ for Woolich yet

 

[sjg34]

I have the woolich and the danos. I started with the danos and later bought the woolich with the hopes racetools would help with the stock wheel base. I was better off without race tools but to be fair I didn't put much effort to get it dialed in. Just finished the air circuit and will start the electrical after I complete a leak check. Not sure how I will make it work yet but I suspect I will go back to the danos to get resistor option and drop back to ECU editor as the main program. I bought the switch swapper from boost by Smith and I will modify it to add a 3 position switch, solid state relay, and an RPM switch and maybe a blocking diode. My thought is I can have the horn button functional in the first position, manual air shift in the second, and auto shift with the option to manually activate the air RAM in the third position.

 

[Dennis]

What is the purpose of Danos or Woolich pressure switch? I just use ECU Editor and DSM input to ECU to activate the kill and the shift. I had mixed results with the resistor method.

If you plan to use an RPM switch as an autoshift I would be curious to see how it works and to know which one you use. My experience is that some switches don't latch on long enough to complete the 1-2 shift.

 

[sjg34]

The pressure switch is just a left over item from prior to the air shifter. I am trying to keep it active so when I ride on the street I have the option of the quickshifter. As far as the RPM I bought a raptor shift light. My thought is if it doesn't have a long enough pulse I will add a capacitor to the circuit. I will let you know what it take to make it work in the next week or so

 

[Dennis]

I think the Raptor is what my buddy has. It works fine as an autoshift.

What would be the purpose of the rpm switch?

 

[sjg34]

The raptor shift light has the RPM switch built in no additional rpm switch in my circuit. Does your buddy have any issues with the 1-2 shift?

 

[sjg34]

A friend put one of these in his bike over the weekend. He will test it this weekend at the track
http://goo.gl/DzLmIy

 

[Dennis]

I won't get a delay box because all the classes I run in don't allow them, plus it is one more thing to deal with. Also, I don't have a slider which is needed to effectively use one.

My buddy has no issues with the 1-2 shift, but it did take a bit to figure out the settings. He bought the bike with the light already on it so we didn't realize it was hooked up to the RPM signal that is probably a crank sensor, not an ignition pulse, so the light has to be programmed as a 2 cylinder instead of the usual 1 cylinder.

 

[sjg34]

Digital delay makes a dedicated auto shift box, no delay box. It looks promising. You can change the shift rpm per gear, ignition cut time, and many other options.

 

[sjg34]

Getting off the original topic but I thought I would share the staging feature of the raptor shift light

 

[Dennis]

My Boost By Smith auto-shift has a staging/shift light but I leave it under the dash because I don't want any lights flashing to distract me, especially on the pro tree. The Raptor does adjust easily.