A Little Help With Rear Wheel Spacers, Etc

VetteNBusa

VetteNBusa

Registered
EDIT - 2005 if that matters

Hi all,
Last week, I replaced the rear rotor.
1. Torqued the bolts to spec w/blue Loctite. All torqued in a star pattern.
2. Changed the pads.
3. Bled the caliper.
4. Spacer with flange on the left, without flange on the right.
5. Installed the wheel and chain

No spare parts.

Here's where it wasn't as smooth -
The wheel spun easily with the lug not yet torqued but "snug". Once I got close to torque spec, the wheel got harder to spin. Dis-assembled and re-assembled - wheel spun more freely but not like before.
About 4 re-assemblies later making sure all was installed correctly to eliminate each possible cause.

Pads touching rotor - clear.
Chain slack - clear.
All spacers correct - clear

On the last assembly, I got close to torque on the lug and heard a loud "snap." Nothing hit the garage floor or walls so safe to say, it had to be internal (I think bearings went)

Ordered the service manual after scouring the web for images that might tell me if I'm missing a spacer or washer, etc. - no good images found.

Can someone PLEASE post some good, close-up pics of a stock rear wheel installed on a Gen 1. I am looking for both sides to see what I missed or if something fell off while riding. I have almost 100k on it and already have the bearing for replacement. I just want to see if there are any other missing parts? I would appreciate any help from experience like this you can share.

Thanks in advance all!
 
(2) - One on each side of the outside of the swing arm, meaning: under the lug nut and on the outside of the axle which is flat on the sides. "Adjustment blocks"
(2) - One on the outside rotor (no flange) and one on the outside of the sprocket (flange)
 
There are three spacers: one on each side of the wheel, between the wheel and the inside of the swingarm, and one between the wheel and the inside of the sprocket carrier - that is probably the one you left out.
 
You may have something there - only mystery is that I had no spare parts. But I will check the garage again. I'm pretty anal about managing the parts and keep them all together as I dismantle things.
The sprocket did not come off the wheel... funny tho, I actually tried to remove it but the dampners were replaced a few weeks ago and they sprocket is holding onto the rim for dear life! :D

I'll take some pix tonight and post up...
 
Have it apart right now and all the spacers are there. At the mechanic buddy shop now. Will update soon. Going ahead and doing the bearings. Keep your fingers crossed. So far no damaged or missing parts. Thanks guys!
 
Hey guys. Thanks for the assist. Viewing this on my phone and can’t UL pics but will do tomorrow once at the office. Seems like All is assembled but maybe the new rotors and pads are rubbing more than I’m used to. This is th first rear rotor in almost 100k miles.
Took it for test 5 miles and seems ok-ish. I’m commuting about 40 miles each way tomorrow and will update.
 
Good luck and let us know. A missing spacer almost made me a greasy spot last year.
 
Wheel parts 5.jpg
Wheel parts 4.jpg
Wheel parts 3.jpg
Wheel parts 2.jpg
Wheel parts.jpg


Thank guys - the good wishes and reminder to be confident paid off (my buddy said the same thing when I left the shop last night). Survived the commute and pictures are promised. The bike ran ok - smelled a little pad smell when I landed, but I think that's to be expected from new pads and rotor. My next thought is going to be check the wheel and caliper alignment. I'm ok with it, but its just "that little something" that I really want to check.

Here's the pix after I arrived this morning - about an hour on the freeway.

Wheel parts 7.jpg
Wheel parts 6.jpg


I hope this is helpful to someone else someday. I had the toughest time finding something I could relate to my situation.

Wheel parts 5.jpg
 
Agreed Flat... I'll try bleeding them again so they aren't so tight. Really have no other options to why they are...
 
When you pushed the pistons back for the new pads did they retract easily? When the bike is on stands does the brake apply then release the instant you release the lever?
 
So... after I initially installed the pads, I pushed the pistons back (after wiping grime off and applied a little grease) - They was "average" resistance. Not really hard or easy if that makes sense. Once the wheel (lug not not torqued) was back on and after bleeding, the wheel turned easily and the rear brake worked perfectly. The pads making contact with the rotor started after nearing the torque spec of the lug. The wheel would turn maybe a quarter rotation whereas before would go at least more than one rotation. That was the mystery that started this thread.

Any ideas? I'm open to suggestions...
 
Where did you put the grease? What kind? The rubber used in brakes isn't compatible with most oils and greases, they make it swell up.

On the binding up,, is it possible a bearing somehow got partially pulled out and the snap you heard when tightening it down was the bearing getting pulled back into place?
 
Caliper grease - just thin around the outside of the pistons.
I went ahead and replaced the three bearings last night. As for the snap - it could have been that the axle was cockeyed a hair and when I torqued down the nut, it snapped into place between the two flat spots. We checked all the pieces and the wheel last night and there was no damage.
 
Last edited:
Is the Gen 1 and Gen 2 different as far as which way the spacers are fitted ?
On the B King and Gen2 the spacers are opposite way round to the above pics by VetteNBusa.
 
SOLVED! Thank you all for your help.

Here's the fix (and food for thought for the future) - It's parts of the process for the Chain Adjustment
1. Loosen the lug nut
2. Loosen the torque arm nuts
3. Adjust the wheel - make sure it's aligned (check the adjustment blocks)
4. Tighten lug nut to spec
5. Check wheel spin/clearance
6. Tighten torque arm nuts to spec
Problem solved.

SUSPECTED CAUSE: When I removed the wheel, it dinged the caliper as I removed it and moved the caliper millimeters... literally.
After the new rotor and pads went on and I reinstalled the wheel, caliper was out of position and when I reassembled it, it was slightly off alignment but once the lug nut was tightened, that misalignment increased. Hope this experience can help someone else and it a good reminder to me that I should expand my area of suspicion when working on these types of issues.

I don't expect to smell pad odor tomorrow. Thanks for the support again everyone!


IMG_4775.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

GSXcite
rear wheel question
Replies
5
Views
719
MO-BUSA
MO-BUSA
Amelio
help with rear axle spacer placement.
Replies
1
Views
2,000
kromdom
kromdom
Mythos
Gen2 Hayabusa Rear Wheel Removal
Replies
18
Views
8,879
Mythos
Mythos
Mythos
Rear Wheel Inspection, Gen 2 Hayabusa
Replies
5
Views
3,375
Mythos
Mythos
8
Professor-Help Wheel Spacer
Replies
10
Views
1,832
Professor
Professor
Back
Top