A couple ?'s

[kennym4]

I am 220 pounds, and riding the stock suspension settings, which if I remember correctly is set up for an 180 pound rider ? My question is.....with me riding it like this, is it too soft, or too tight ? And what effect does it have on the bike as far as handling goes ? Is this something I can fix myself (Dummy Proof) ?


Next question....I have always did all my braking before I got into the turn, then got on the throttle through the turn, is this wrong ? I was doing some reading, and it said that you want to come off the brake as smooth as you got on it ? I've always just let off it. I don't plan on pushing it like you would on a track, but wouldn't the process be the same ?

Thanks for any help, God knows I need it !!

 

[teamorion22]

free bump. i bet the stock suspension is set up for a smaller rider than 180 but either way it should need to be 'beefed up' a lil for you. i think you can do this yourself but i bet some here may recommend some sort of aftermarket setup. someone here will give you better advice i am sure
here is a read https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenance-do-yourself/89876-jinkster-attacks-suspension.html

 

[BUBBA]

I am now on the other side of the scale and my suspension is too stiff on the front. I am wondering what this does and how to get it right.
Bubba

 

[BusaWhipped]

I am 220 pounds, and riding the stock suspension settings, which if I remember correctly is set up for an 180 pound rider ? My question is.....with me riding it like this, is it too soft, or too tight ? And what effect does it have on the bike as far as handling goes ? Is this something I can fix myself (Dummy Proof) ?


Next question....I have always did all my braking before I got into the turn, then got on the throttle through the turn, is this wrong ? I was doing some reading, and it said that you want to come off the brake as smooth as you got on it ? I've always just let off it. I don't plan on pushing it like you would on a track, but wouldn't the process be the same ?

Thanks for any help, God knows I need it !!

The faster you go, the more important suspension setup, braking technique, etc become. What do you want to get out of the bike? The stock suspension is too soft for serious canyon carving or the track. But its ok if you are just street riding, even with a little spirit. I didn't make suspension changes other then dialing in the stock suspension close as I could until after I had a couple of track days behind me. I'm bigger than you are. A link for how to do that is posted above by teamorion22.

Same with the braking. Complete your braking before you tip in and roll on the throttle through the corner until you get to the level of needing to trail brake.

 

[mike1180]

Dave Moss is THE suspension guru.
Check out here and enjoy!

onthethrottle.com - HowTo

Twist of the Wrist II by Keith Code is all the information on how to take corners.
Get it here:

Manual Downloads

 

[kennym4]

free bump. i bet the stock suspension is set up for a smaller rider than 180 but either way it should need to be 'beefed up' a lil for you. i think you can do this yourself but i bet some here may recommend some sort of aftermarket setup. someone here will give you better advice i am sure
here is a read https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenance-do-yourself/89876-jinkster-attacks-suspension.html

Yup, WAAAAAY over my head !!

Thanks

 

[BusaWhipped]

Take it over to New Jersey Motorsports Park when Sportbike Track Time is having a track day and have the suspension guy set it up for you. It'll cost you about $80 depending who's there. I don't know if Ken does the New Jersey track days or not.

 

[kennym4]

Take it over to New Jersey Motorsports Park when Sportbike Track Time is having a track day and have the suspension guy set it up for you. It'll cost you about $80 depending who's there. I don't know if Ken does the New Jersey track days or not.

sounds like a plan ! How would I find out when they're having one ? Web site ?


Thanks !!

 

[fastblackblur]

The bike is probably too soft. When my track bike was too soft I would run out of ground clearance way too easily. Get a friend and try and set the sag on it, if you can't get the numbers close to where you need them you'll need to change the springs out. Totaly worth it to get the forks taken care of. You won't notice how sloppy an undersprung bike feels until you ride one set up for your weight. I have my track bike all set up for my weight and when I jump on the busa I notice how much softer it rides.

The kieth code book and dvd are a great place to start for learning how to ride your bike.

 

[JINKSTER]

I am 220 pounds, and riding the stock suspension settings, which if I remember correctly is set up for an 180 pound rider ? My question is.....with me riding it like this, is it too soft, or too tight ? And what effect does it have on the bike as far as handling goes ? Is this something I can fix myself (Dummy Proof) ?

1st off?..you are correct...if anything?...the stock settings are actually to towards the "plush riding" end of things even for a 180lb'er...the stock progressive rate springs are wound in an attempt to cover a broad spectrum of even "Combined Rider" weights as it is a two seater sold to johnny q....so?..in an effort to avoid any potential liability suits?..you get "progressive rate springs"..to acommodate anyone from a 100lb panty waister to TWO....JUMBO SIZED FOLK...Possibly Mr & Mrs 350lb'ers for a "POTENTIAL" combined rider weight of upwards of 700lbs..so..life being what it is?..for general street riding?..the stock hardware can be "gotten by with"...just tune the stockers as i've described in the jinkster attacks suspension thread...it's not all that difficult..you know how to eat an elephant...one bite at a time...just go step-by-step..and you'll be like.."OOOooohhh"...then after you ride?..you'll be like..."WOW"...whaddah dif...but for the more serious riders out there?..it ain't even a question...racetech straight rate springs...racetech gold valves..and someone who's on top of their game to do the install/set-up/fine-tune (such as GMD Computrac) coupled with a penske rear shock and your busa will have legs that rival that of ohlins which would cost 2-3x's as much...if not more...TTT

Next question....I have always did all my braking before I got into the turn, then got on the throttle through the turn, is this wrong ? I was doing some reading, and it said that you want to come off the brake as smooth as you got on it ? I've always just let off it. I don't plan on pushing it like you would on a track, but wouldn't the process be the same ?

Thanks for any help, God knows I need it !!

no your not "wrong"..and to expand on that?..rider inputs go togther with tuned suspension like eggs & ham...bread & butter..and the reason for the operator to make all inputs as smooth as possible is (as should be) an effort aimed at...

NOT DISRUPTING THE BIKES CHASSIS/SUSPENSION

as the harder you are on the inputs/controls?..causing large deltas in the massive Weight Forward/Weight Rearward weight distribution and as it acts on the suspension/action of the bike?..huge variences take place in exactly how much traction you are recieveing from the front and rear tire contact patches...which never ends good as a continued policy of operation...so grasshopper?..like an old blind monk of a moutain man once told me..

"To be fast?..you must 1st learn how to become smooooooth"

and "FAST" is just the end result.

l8r, bill.

 

[BusaWhipped]

sounds like a plan ! How would I find out when they're having one ? Web site ?


Thanks !!

June 6 and 7. If you want to ride the track you'll need to become a member and register for a track day. If you only want to get the suspension tuned, you should be able to just pay the gate fee as "crew" to get into the paddock.

Sport Bike Track Time :: Home

 

[kennym4]

1st off?..you are correct...if anything?...the stock settings are actually to towards the "plush riding" end of things even for a 180lb'er...the stock progressive rate springs are wound in an attempt to cover a broad spectrum of even "Combined Rider" weights as it is a two seater sold to johnny q....so?..in an effort to avoid any potential liability suits?..you get "progressive rate springs"..to acommodate anyone from a 100lb panty waister to TWO....JUMBO SIZED FOLK...Possibly Mr & Mrs 350lb'ers for a "POTENTIAL" combined rider weight of upwards of 700lbs..so..life being what it is?..for general street riding?..the stock hardware can be "gotten by with"...just tune the stockers as i've described in the jinkster attacks suspension thread...it's not all that difficult..you know how to eat an elephant...one bite at a time...just go step-by-step..and you'll be like.."OOOooohhh"...then after you ride?..you'll be like..."WOW"...whaddah dif...but for the more serious riders out there?..it ain't even a question...racetech straight rate springs...racetech gold valves..and someone who's on top of their game to do the install/set-up/fine-tune (such as GMD Computrac) coupled with a penske rear shock and your busa will have legs that rival that of ohlins which would cost 2-3x's as much...if not more...TTT




no your not "wrong"..and to expand on that?..rider inputs go togther with tuned suspension like eggs & ham...bread & butter..and the reason for the operator to make all inputs as smooth as possible is (as should be) an effort aimed at...

NOT DISRUPTING THE BIKES CHASSIS/SUSPENSION

as the harder you are on the inputs/controls?..causing large deltas in the massive Weight Forward/Weight Rearward weight distribution and as it acts on the suspension/action of the bike?..huge variences take place in exactly how much traction you are recieveing from the front and rear tire contact patches...which never ends good as a continued policy of operation...so grasshopper?..like an old blind monk of a moutain man once told me..

"To be fast?..you must 1st learn how to become smooooooth"

and "FAST" is just the end result.

l8r, bill.

Thanks, that's what I was looking for !!