99-07 busa hp increase to match 08's

[bone]

i have an 04 busa,  what would it cost to make it equal the 08's supposely 190+hp?  i mean could i sell it(very clean 8K miles, stock) and get the 08 cheaper than modifying mine to equal the HP of the new bike?  i dont want a big bore or turbo.  

all i know about this bike would be a full exhaust,  power commander, air filter and dyno time for a tune.  i know the exhaust is quite expensive.  

thanks for any advice.  

bone

 

[ibified]

1 word: nitrous.

 

[bone]

Sorry, i forgot i dont want nitrous either. just dependable power everyday.

bone

 

[ibified]

well, if you arent concerned about reducing your top speed a little bit, you can always change your sprockets. Up 2 in the back and down 1 in the front sounds about right. You wont have more HP, but you WILL have more acceleration.

 

[sledhead]

(bone @ Jun. 26 2007,19:13) Sorry,  i forgot i dont want nitrous either.  just dependable power everyday.  

bone

I ran Nitrous for over a year and never had an issue. Set up correctly, Nitrous is 100% dependable.

 

[bigoltool]

No Big bore, No turbo, No Nitrous. Sounds ripe for a Supercharger then?

Seriously though you can get there with a Carpenter head and careful component selection. Big bore may be more economical though.

 

[thebbbusa]

You said no big bore, or even a mild one. That's what Suzi did to get there. There are no easy answers.

MAYBE with a real good exhaust, a ported head, different cams you'd be close...until you do the same to the new bike and it goes to 210hp.

Remember the old saying, there's no replacement for displacement! Unless you go forced induction or NOS.

 

[ambulldog]

do you use all the hp you have now? +1 on sprockets

 

[Professor]

1363, bump compression to 12.5, cams, ported head work.

Be about as cheap to buy a new one.

 

[dadofthree]

You can change the pistons, same bore, higher compression and swap cams, 200 HP. That's what I've been told by a reliable source.

 

[Luvanicebum]

Here's my .03.....yeah, I'm rich.
Do as much as you can with the existing stock bike to increase the performance around the 1299cc displacement. I would pesonally
do complete upgrades on my suspension, damper, brakes, wheels.
Before I disrupt the intergrity of the engine. I know most folks in here have excellent mechanical skills doing engine mods, but unless you do it right, you can really hurt a bike. I have a buddy that paid like $4000 for some engine work and a custom megaphone pipe. Sounds like crap and my bike runs like a top compared to his. Still smokin him.
Lose a little weight... A guy 185lbs is going to go a hell of alot faster than guy weighing 250lbs.
Race exhaust, gear change, GIPro. There's alot you can do to go faster.

 

[Cookie]

(dadofthree @ Jun. 26 2007,19:48) You can change the pistons, same bore, higher compression and swap cams, 200 HP. That's what I've been told by a reliable source.

If you are going into the engine like that you might as well go with a 1363cc with 12:1 compression so you can run 87 octane gas. Do some head work and run an additional intake camshaft, large airbox mod, all small airbox runners, remap to optimize and you should be real close.

That to me would be the short way to go if you were remotely close to being inside that engine and wanted to stay N/A.

For others that are trying to tap the big boy out,,, I would just go all of the way and school with a 1397 w/ 13:1 compression, megacycle camshafts (Stage II), large airbox mod w/all small runners, head porting, (& EVERY OTHER PART OF THE GROCERY LIST), after-market pipe and exhaust one up in the back and be set.

If money isn't an object and you are into constant tweaking and the dumping of money - turbo-charge!

 

[GMbusa]

For about the cost of a healthy 1397, you can have a dead reliable stage 1 turbo setup. Pump gas and a stock bike below 6Krpms.

What your asking from a stock engine is not gonna happen, unless you strip it down then balance and blueprint it. By the time you get close to the HP figure you want, you coulda had either the turbo or 1397.

 

[Learjett]

(GMbusa @ Jun. 26 2007,23:23) For about the cost of a healthy 1397, you can have a dead reliable stage 1 turbo setup. Pump gas and a stock bike below 6Krpms.

What your asking from a stock engine is not gonna happen, unless you strip it down then balance and blueprint it.   By the time you get close to the HP figure you want, you coulda had either the turbo or 1397.

+ 1

 

[SnapAttack]

(dadofthree @ Jun. 26 2007,19:48) You can change the pistons, same bore, higher compression and swap cams, 200 HP. That's what I've been told by a reliable source.

You forgot the TRE

 

[GMbusa]

Another choice is to swap in a ported head and a set of cams. Adams performance offers killer head&cam deals. That will get you around the 190-200hp mark. Of course, you'll still need a PC3 and a GOOD full exhaust system.

 

[DaCol.]

(Professor @ Jun. 26 2007,19:46) 1363, bump compression to 12.5, cams, ported head work.

But then he couldn't use the cheap 87 Octane Gasoline

 

[gsteve]

Getting the same hp wont take much , i figure im close now. BTW , the extra 50 cc isnt where they got the new hp. That increase is worth maybe 5-6 hp.

 

[Big Red]

For reliable every day riding: big bore kit, cams, gas flow head, 4-2-1 exhaust system, par valve removal, air box mod, Power comander, sprocket(s) change and a Johnny Cheese tune will get you to or near the 200 hp mark.

 

[Tybalt71]

I did it for 200 HP with out NOS, no turbo and STOCK BORE! I put in YOSH 81mm(stock bore) High 12:1 pistons, stage 1 cams from yosh, ported head, velocity stacks, heavier valve springs, 1mm oversize stainless valves, usb and full YOSH exhaust, no need to go bigbore, i have had no cooling issues, very reliable and I ran a 2ndary back up fan if needed. She goes like stink!, just borke in 1000 k's, flushed her out and putting her back up opn the dyno for more tuning