9.03 on modded stock busa

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"""I picked up the bike as a total. It was a pure stock 2000 with 3000 miles and light cosmetic body damage from an easy laydown, some squid's fantasy turned into a nightmare. The only wear on the rear tire was one narrow strip in the middle, the rest of the tits were still on the tire.

The day after I got it running I took it to the track one time and ran a 10.16 @ 140 - 100% pure showroom stock, no mods of any kind. That was the last day of the racing season.

I do all my own work. I built it, tuned it, and ride it. Over the winter I added the pipe, lowered it, did all the regular little mods, and ran a 9.67 @ 147 the first day out with it this spring while making my NHRA licensing passes. The next day I blew the tranny - a bent fork and chipped second gear dogs. I tore it apart and sent it to Fast by Gast for backcutting. Then, the day before I had planned to reassemble everything and get back to racing I had a little mishap and broke both my hands. After hanging around in casts and pins for 2 months and then another month of therapy I was finally able to get back to work on it.

Since the engine was already out, I figured I might as well put cams in now instead of tearing it apart again (I'll disclose cam details in the future). The engine has a lot of dyno time on it, and there's a lot more planned. The head has never been off. Needless to say it has untouched STOCK crank, rods, bore, pistons, rings, head, valves, springs, compression, gaskets, etc. The only engine mods are cams, BDE Gen3, PC2. Of course, it has most of the other little minor power mods and tweaks mentioned on this forum. Thanks Motorhead and fellow members.

Naturally, the bike is lowered and has an airshifter and shiftlight too. I had Frank Adams build a 0-6" adjustable swing arm for it. I'm running a used "road race take off" 180 Pirelli Dragon Super Corsa. It seems to work ok for me on a good track between 14 and 18 psi depending on the track condition. With a stock arm it should easily hook up with 25-30 psi. I really wanted a new lightweight MCR2 (my old MCR2 on another bike was typically out of round) but too many people reported splitting problems as soon as they came out. Since they seem to have resolved the splitting problem I'll put one on when the Pirelli wears out. Hopefully, it will be round and hold together. Since it is flatter and a little softer, it should work a little better than the Pirelli on a marginal track.

This weekend was the second time out with it on a track that could hold it. Two other brief occasions on poorly prepped tracks had the expectable results. It worked well this time. It'll be even better the next time...

I still have a lot of dialing in and tweaking to do. It's nowhere near being optimised yet. I'm pretty sure there's at least another tenth in it, probably a little more."""




I have 2 good friends that I regularly race with/ hang out with at the drag strip.
Buzzard has found a wonderful compromise in the Busa that he will not share with the world.
Head never off, yada yada. No spray, normally aspirated, etc.
Just what you read above.

I was there, I took photos (after eliminations), and he is my tuner/supplier.

Hard to gulp?? Here ya go:
Stock busa,
lowered, streched, cams, pc2, shift light, air shifter, airbox mod, race tire. 200lb fat, bald guy. 9.03 in 1/4 mile. real.




comments, suggestions, jaw-drops...... ? ?
 
It must have some kinda pipe also.........that's somewhere near $3000 in mods, maybe more.........deffinately more if ya include dyno time.......to tune it to make that kind of power.



Not sayin that isn't major power for the mods.......I'd kill to make those figures.


I think as soon as you add......stretching, cams, and an airshifter, yer really starting the departure from stock.



Just my .02 :super: :thumbsup:
 
Good job. I'm running mid 9's at 155-58. With nos, but no traction. Need a tire bad. Took off my shinko (which worked great) and tried some others(bad :sad: ). So maybe next time.
 
It's VERY difficult to believe that the bike is running that ET and MPH, with the mods claimed.
I know of a bike that has the same setup as what is claimed here. It has made 176hp, at best. It runs the same 60', same MPH, but best time is a 9.38.
The trick here is that the rider of THAT bike only weighs in at 160lbs.
How does a guy carry the same MPH and 60' and weigh 40lbs more?
They leave the same,
and run the same MPH,
but the heavy guy gets there first?

"Something" is happening in the middle of that track that he's not tellin ya.
 
The thing has to have a little headwork as well as everything else.....either that or Pete the sneak is on board with him. :tounge:
 
different tracks will say different times. A 9.5 at one track will be a 9.1 at the other.
The only way the timers should be out 4/10'ths is if one is at a way higher altitude and they're not correcting for the height.

I've raced a car one weekend at sea level then the next at 1500' above with very similar conditions and the corrected time of the higher track was less than 1/10'th difference.



My .02
:super: :)
 
same bike that ran 9.03 on the 16th... ran 9.11 yesterday on diff track.
Hope that will give some of you an idea of the difference in times at diff tracks.!
 
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