6lbs just not enough

Not perfect, i only roughed it with a flat endmill and never ran the ballmill. I also had two areas of funky code that ran the endmill across the part. I will just throw some weld on it and smooth it out...

20190907_201645.jpg


20190907_201607.jpg
 
Boosted Cycle Perf said:
Three things.

1: is that an old velocity header?

2: that blue -AN fitting, is that where you’re returning oil from the turbo?

3: MY PEOPLE. NLR BOOST CLUTCH!! Lol
Click to expand...

Not sure who made that header. Its got a cast flange from rcc i believe. I bought it used. I have a rcc mechanical scavange for the return. The -an fitting runs back up to the stock location thats open on the case. When i first put the bike together i couldnt get the oem line to fit so i made my own. Ill put a picture up showing it.
And the nlr is new to me. I have a mtc multi stage also for when/if i actually try to drag race a class. Im hoping that the 15-22 psi range i want to run will be enough for that nlr to do something.
 
Cncbusa said:
Not sure who made that header. Its got a cast flange from rcc i believe. I bought it used. I have a rcc mechanical scavange for the return. The -an fitting runs back up to the stock location thats open on the case. When i first put the bike together i couldnt get the oem line to fit so i made my own. Ill put a picture up showing it.
And the nlr is new to me. I have a mtc multi stage also for when/if i actually try to drag race a class. Im hoping that the 15-22 psi range i want to run will be enough for that nlr to do something.
Click to expand...
The NLR only needs 1psi to do something. It’s a great clutch.
 
202mphbusa said:
I rebuilt then replaced my turbo cause of a smoking issue, Well rebuilt a GT28/76 replaced it with a Ball bearing GT40/88 see how that works My return line must have been messed up some how because even the RCC header turbo smoked till I did the mech pump
Click to expand...
Do you have a better picture of the oil feed? Looks like it is inline where it is supposed to be
 
Cncbusa said:
I have a oil resctrictor on top of the turbo. The oil line feed connects to it then the turbo.
Click to expand...
Its black, hard to see in the pic. If i need a check valve ill just buy a -8 threaded one and put it on the return line. My last setup never smoked, and i only had a threaded bung i welded on the the oem oil pan (gravity fed). I havent ran the bike yet with this setup as it sits now.
 
Cncbusa said:
Its black, hard to see in the pic. If i need a check valve ill just buy a -8 threaded one and put it on the return line. My last setup never smoked, and i only had a threaded bung i welded on the the oem oil pan (gravity fed). I havent ran the bike yet with this setup as it sits now.
Click to expand...
Hi. That is right 6 lbs is not. I would love to have a busa motor that could work with 112 lbs of boost! Lets build one lets say 1600cc.
 
you dont need a check valve in the drain line for the mechanical scavenge pump. you do want a check valve in the feed line. the reason being the engine can drain oil from the upper galleys and cams etc and fill up the turbo after the bike is shut off and the pump isnt pumping. a 1 psi cracking pressure check valve prevents this.
 
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