600 mile service
- Thread starter busafish
- Start date
Buy a $38 oem manual off ebay and do it yourself.
.... or download it in PDF format and do it yourself.
Chain lube?is there an aftermarket equivalent of "suzuki super grease A"?
$160 is a good price. It doesn't sound like you are comfortable doing your own maintenance yet. Make sure they do the whole service and not just change the oil and take it for a spin around the block. You should learn how to do the maintenance items to your bike that it needs. It will save you time and money and your parts will last longer. I'm surprised your chain has gone 600 miles without becoming sloppy loose.
wow. sounds a little high to me. I think I paid $59 for my 1st but that was back in '03. The only reason to have the dealer do it is to register the all important 1st service in the computer. As said above, either download the sticky pinned service manual off this board or buy the haynes manual online and do the rest yourself. No better way to learn about your ride. Start a notebook, log every time you do any maintenance to the bike and keep all recipts. If your dealer is good, have him do anything you are not comfortable doing.
Johnnycheese
Registered
same price as I always charge
50.00 plus parts
50.00 plus parts
G
Guest
paid 180 for mine including new spark plugs.
+1 Its not like working on a car. If you mess up on the car you just break down on the side of the road. If you mess up the maintenance on your bike then you end up on the side of the road with your bike lying next to you.
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You guys paid 160 bucks for what.. a oil change? ANYTHING with 600 miles does not need any kind of service.... MAYBE an oil change because of the new motor. Thats about it. You guys shoudl just send me 160 bucks via paypal and a picture of your bike so I can look at it. Same thing the dealer does.
Buy a rear stand, a can of Maxima chain wax, a gallon or bigger can of kerosene and you're all set. Heck, if you can change oil anf filter, that's about 85 percent of the total service! Trust me, been doing my own maintenance for 30 years now! It ain't rocket science, the dealer service is a big rip off!
Chain adjustment, as I am sure you already know, is in your Owner's manual. Some may say those little adjustment marks aren't accurate, but hey, they're close enough!
Put her up on the rear stand, wipe that chain down and rear sprocket with kerosene, then wipe it dry with a dry rag. Rotate the rear wheel while appying the chain (no fling) wax.
Adjust the chain as instructed, buy a 36 mm socket at Kragens or Autozone or where ever. IMPORTANT: Before you remove the right fairing to get at that oil filter, remove the top three fairing fasteners and apply a strip of masking tape to that upper portion of fairing that won't be removed. You'll prevent scratching, see if any dealer does that for you!!
I'll get flamed by many on this next hint I'm sure, but again, trust me! After you drain the oil, only "hand tighten" the drain plug, then put a socket on the drain plug and give it just a touch past hand tight, it will not leak. Check all visible fasteners and hex nuts for tightness, pay particular attention to those phillips screws that hold the bar ends on and the couple of hex bolts that secure your windscreen. That's about it man, jump for joy, you just put $160 in your pocket!
And guess what? You have just done a much more thorough job than the knuckle draggers down at the shop would do!
<!--EDIT|CCbusa05
Reason for Edit: None given...|1134522849 -->
Chain adjustment, as I am sure you already know, is in your Owner's manual. Some may say those little adjustment marks aren't accurate, but hey, they're close enough!
Put her up on the rear stand, wipe that chain down and rear sprocket with kerosene, then wipe it dry with a dry rag. Rotate the rear wheel while appying the chain (no fling) wax.
Adjust the chain as instructed, buy a 36 mm socket at Kragens or Autozone or where ever. IMPORTANT: Before you remove the right fairing to get at that oil filter, remove the top three fairing fasteners and apply a strip of masking tape to that upper portion of fairing that won't be removed. You'll prevent scratching, see if any dealer does that for you!!
I'll get flamed by many on this next hint I'm sure, but again, trust me! After you drain the oil, only "hand tighten" the drain plug, then put a socket on the drain plug and give it just a touch past hand tight, it will not leak. Check all visible fasteners and hex nuts for tightness, pay particular attention to those phillips screws that hold the bar ends on and the couple of hex bolts that secure your windscreen. That's about it man, jump for joy, you just put $160 in your pocket!
And guess what? You have just done a much more thorough job than the knuckle draggers down at the shop would do!
<!--EDIT|CCbusa05
Reason for Edit: None given...|1134522849 -->
G
Guest
i paid for the piece of mind that they cant say i didnt follow the service intervals in the manual... its on their system and i got a friggin receipt. I paid 12k for a bike, I'll pay 180 more
by saving the reciepts of the parts(oil filter, oil, blah blah blah) you are staying within the warranty guildlines and wont void it. my peice of mind is knowing my machine.
A big "PLUS 1", amen bro!
the chain has to align just perfect with the front sprocket or it'll come off right? I just wanna make that sure. and the stock indicators on the sides of swingarms are not accurate?
Also the manual indicated I need to check the steering at 600 + every 7500 by getting the front wheel off the ground (No wheeling Lol) and grabbing the front forks with both hands and pulling forward?
? Sounds like I need front stand too.
<!--EDIT|busafish
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Also the manual indicated I need to check the steering at 600 + every 7500 by getting the front wheel off the ground (No wheeling Lol) and grabbing the front forks with both hands and pulling forward?
<!--EDIT|busafish
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New spark plugs were needed at 600 miles?
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