600 Mile Oil change

[MetalDisorder]

Ok well I dropped the oil at 250 miles and now I just did my 600 mile oil change and filter.
Noticed that the coolant level was at the bottom mark.
Since I have the room in the bottle do you guys recommend adding water wetter? Or just top off coolant

PS I broke one of the damn clips on the underbelly .. glued it so it is drying tonight

could they have made those plastics harder to take off... Arggg...

 

[Warchild]

I ASSume you are referring to the overflow reservoir, yes? As a reference point, my coolant level has been pretty close to the top level mark every time I've had the side cowlings off (3-4 times now).

Ideally, you should bring the coolant level up using a 50/50 solution of the coolant of your choice, and distilled, ionized water. Alternatively (and this is the easiest way, truthfully), buy a quart or so of pre-mixed coolant, and pour it straight in.

Too, you can always check the coolant level just by looking at the overflow reservoir sight window located on the right inner front cowling...

Edit to add: suspect you can prolly just add your leftover Water Wetter and be just fine, really....

 

[MetalDisorder]

Thanks for the info .. Your cowling help file was a life saver
Does Suzuki use std "green" prestone type antifreeze from the factory or is it a bike only thing?
I have lots of that around the house.
Also ... what was the sequences for lining up the push pins .. clips and so on on the plastics??
slip in front first then snap in top then push the rubber grommet pins in .. any help may save my plastics as they go back on .. thanks.

 

[Bo_]

the oil at 250 miles and now I just did my 600 mile oil change

How did your oil look at 250 and 600?

 

[MetalDisorder]

Actually I read all of the posts saying the oil looks bad... Mine was as clear as new at 250 and 600...
Very little ring and other dust on the magnet. So my bike showed no signs of the dirty oil that others did.
P.S. Happy New year everyone!

 

[Warchild]

Thanks for the info .. Your cowling help file was a life saver
Does Suzuki use std "green" prestone type antifreeze from the factory or is it a bike only thing?
I have lots of that around the house.
Also ... what was the sequences for lining up the push pins .. clips and so on on the plastics??
slip in front first then snap in top then push the rubber grommet pins in .. any help may save my plastics as they go back on .. thanks.

The factory coolant, from what I can tell, appears to be standard green stuff.... not bike specific. It is, however, kinda important that you use distilled, de-ionized water, if you are mixing up a batch.

Re: side cowling push-pins. Note there are FOUR (4) large rubber grommets to deal with, in addition to a ton of tabs/slots. Here is the correct order of install you want to use in order to minimize breaking crap off left and right:

1)FIRST do the very, very top-most (center) rubber grommet, closest to the fuel tank. This is the ONLY grommet that faces *upwards* (parallel to the ground)... the other three face *outwards* (perpendicular) to the ground).
2)Now wrestle with aligning up all tabs/hooks/slots toward the upper seam.
3)Then do the same for the nose area.
4)Then ensure the *forward*, upper grommet has its attending pin pushed in (this is located above and slightly to the right of the overflow reservoir).
5)Now for the fun part - the maze of slot/tabs/hose in the nose chin.... good times, there.

6)Finally, the lower two large rubber grommets.

 

[MetalDisorder]

You are the man .. Thanks .. I will go home at lunch and try this as it is 50 deg here today and tonight it will be 35 or so ... Brrrr
Gonna warm up for the weekend however

I will post up how the plasics on process works for me...

 

[Bo_]

Actually I read all of the posts saying the oil looks bad... Mine was as clear as new at 250 and 600...
Very little ring and other dust on the magnet. So my bike showed no signs of the dirty oil that others did.

This was mine at 250 miles.

 

[Bo_]

This is what it looked like at approx 450 miles.

 

[MetalDisorder]

THATS WEIRD GUYS
My oil was still clear at 250 and after I dumped it and filled at 600+ it was still good. WTF
was the factory having a bad week or change oil types mid stream ??
I just changed it and put a K&N oil filter..
Warchild you are my hero man .. Bike went back together based on the info you sent today

This was such a bear that I bet some dont change oil as often as they should!
Thanks for the help man....

 

[orangecrush08]

Mine was also clear at both changes, wonder if some dealers choose to put really cheap oils in knowing that it will get changed anyway soon? I heard that my dealer uses honda lube so thats what I used for my first two. Couple hundred more and the amsoil goes in and the spanking begins!!!

 

[Mr Bogus]

you are going to have a tough go of finding "Distilled de-ionized" water... you will find distilled pretty easy but DI water is not so easy to find. I would venture you stand a better chance of finding RO/DI (reverse osmosis/de-ionized) a lot easier. (I have to produce my own due to my salt water reef tanks).

Regular distilled water will work just fine and if you must find de-ionized, try a pet store that sells marine (salt) fish. They most often have RO/DI units. I would save all the work and just pickup distilled water myself..

 

[Bo_]

THATS WEIRD GUYS
My oil was still clear at 250 and after I dumped it and filled at 600+ it was still good. WTF
was the factory having a bad week or change oil types mid stream ??

Hmmm, hope that's not a bad sign, a couple months ago some other people here stated that their oil was very dark on the first couple changes. I talked to the dude that sold me the bike about this subject yesterday and he really didn't have a clue. I suspect that it is the assembly lube that was used on certian engines, maybe some with graphite in it. Actually I saved a sample from the first and second oil changes, I might get one of the lube techs here to run a spectral analysis on my oil to determine the levels of wear metals, silicon, graphite, coolant and other trash present in the oil.

 

[MetalDisorder]

Damn Bo_
that is a good resource to have!

 

[scoot]

the bikes come in with oil in them....i uncrated mine and checked mine first...it was full....still clean also..there is not much assembly for the new bikes unlike the old ones that did not come with oil in them.. front ends used to be off the bike and had to be installed at the dealer...its damn near gas and go ,,, once you get them out of the cardboard...and get the nuts and bolts off the crate to see your new baby..

 

[MetalDisorder]

Hopefully the black you guys are seeing is just the black molly lube used in assembly!

 

[8Daytona8]

Color of oil has very little to do with its condition. Even though I like the look of GTX cause its so pristine lookin. The oil that wasn't dark may have a thermostat that is too cool! As bad as too hot! You like clean oil! You'd freak if you had a Diesel then. The 600 mile service by the dealer is supposed to be an important one, and can be, if they check for known chaffed items and loose stuff. They have ruined it though by just rippin us off. The old 200 mile break in was for machining that was made by cave men compared to today's close tolerance technology.  

 

[MetalDisorder]

With that said .... Ummm .... I will stick with the clean ... does not look like diesel oil

PS you missed a great ride .. Wish you could have stayed longer ! Next time man !

 

[The Big Red One]

Thanks for the info .. Your cowling help file was a life saver
Does Suzuki use std "green" prestone type antifreeze from the factory or is it a bike only thing?
I have lots of that around the house.
Also ... what was the sequences for lining up the push pins .. clips and so on on the plastics??
slip in front first then snap in top then push the rubber grommet pins in .. any help may save my plastics as they go back on .. thanks.

Be sure and use a "silicate" free antifreeze...it'll say on the bottle

And yes busa oil changes are a pain...old or new. It does get easier with time, but its never fun