300 Shots of Nos

Aly Kabil

Registered
Hello Everyone,

I would like to build gen2 busa with 300+ shots of Nos instead of building a turbo bike, i think it will be cheaper ( just my 2 cent) but i have a lot of questions regarding this build and the internals, will the bike will be able to make 500+ HP

I am think about stock bore and stroke

1-best pistons for this build
2- rods
3-bearing
4-cams
5- compression

Thank you in advance for all the inputs
 

This is what I use and works great with the Boostbysmith nitrous harness for ecu editor.

I will be selling this setup in about a month after I get done installing my turbo motor...
Yes they are and i am planning to run there system
 
If your going to spray a 300 shot you will want 2 kits. What do you plan on tuning with and what’s your clutch set up? It’s always nice to have power. But it’s useless if you can’t put it down to the ground.
i am planning to run MTC gen2 clutch, and why 2 kits? i can't run one kit with progressive?
 
You will want to run 2 kits with a progressive controller. It would be easier to ramp them in. And if something goes wrong with a solenoid you less likely to hurt to something. I run 2 kits on my bike. One kit is just for the first 60 feet. Right now it’s a 25 shot that I ramp down to help get the bike moving then the bigger shot comes on. 300 is a big shot. I would work my way up to that.
 
i am planning to run MTC gen2 clutch, and why 2 kits? i can't run one kit with progressive?
Hi Aly Kabil. I am doing a turbo + NOS I have JE custon 10 to 1 pistons C P Carrillo custom rods and a Marine stroker billet crank. I also have a Gen 2 clutch but I have the one with the air assist. It is not on there web page yet. I can get all the parts at a good price too. My motor is set up for 850 to 1000HP and 13500 RPM. On the head ported with ss intake +1mm valves, exhaust Inconel +1mm bronze guides and exhaust seats. cams custom Web. custom work to the cases with 1/2 inch ARP studs head and crank also ARP case bolts and APE trans stud. My trans is all Robinsons Ind. There is over $25,000.00 in the motor.
 
Hi Aly Kabil. I am doing a turbo + NOS I have JE custon 10 to 1 pistons C P Carrillo custom rods and a Marine stroker billet crank. I also have a Gen 2 clutch but I have the one with the air assist. It is not on there web page yet. I can get all the parts at a good price too. My motor is set up for 850 to 1000HP and 13500 RPM. On the head ported with ss intake +1mm valves, exhaust Inconel +1mm bronze guides and exhaust seats. cams custom Web. custom work to the cases with 1/2 inch ARP studs head and crank also ARP case bolts and APE trans stud. My trans is all Robinsons Ind. There is over $25,000.00 in the motor.
woooooooow thats impressive

i just dont understand why you run a marine crank, can you explain more about it, and what about the air assist in the clutch, where i can find more details about it?
 
I would look into how big of a tank you will need to maintain pressure for a 300 shot. I never heard of such a big dose of nitrous on a bike. If the pressure goes down, you need to get that up with a heater and it seems likely impossible to heat a bottle fast enough to keep up with the volume coming out that would be required for +300 hp. You will be constantly filing whatever bottle you use and a few years back nitrous was pretty expensive. Also, I heard if you're going over a 70 shot, you should go with wet nitrous which is quite a project and not real safe to use either. Wet can pool in the airbox and ignite all at once. BOOM right under your fuel tank.

I want to try nitrous on one of my bikes but I was planning about a 60 shot at most. If I need more, I'l just go with turbo. There's nothing wrong with using a turbo and nitrous together. I have heard of people doing that. I'm not sure why unless maybe it's too small of a turbo to make the boost they need.

Turbo has boost at all rpm. Nitrous, you only use at about 6000 rpm and up. IDK, with a progressive controller, you might be able to use nitrous at any rpm and even any throttle position if that's what you want but why ?? since you are paying for the nitrous? Just turn the throttle more at lower rpm. Air is free and works at all rpm and TP and that is what is nice about a turbo. NOS, I think you save that for a predictable situation like the drag strip where each run is very similar. You want power any time anywhere, go turbo. Yeah NOS is a lot cheaper but I think a smaller shot is more practical.

I'm interested i your project if you pursue it. There's a lot I need to learn about nitrous.
 
woooooooow thats impressive

i just dont understand why you run a marine crank, can you explain more about it, and what about the air assist in the clutch, where i can find more details about it?
Hi. Marine is the name of the company who makes it. The clutch uses a slave cylinder that is 3 to 1, so 120 lbs of air to it puts 360 extra lbs of pressure on the clutch in addition to the lock up fingers of the lock up Gen2 clutch. I can get the clutch and crank. They are not cheep over $3,000.00 each. I also have custom valve springs. You should use a Gen 1 block too. My pistons use a 20mm pin not the Gen 2 18mm pins The 18s are nit as strong. This is why my motor is over $25,000.00. I spent $800.00 and $122.00 to 8 ozs and 2ozs.Now if I do not eat any more food I can save more weight and have more money to spend on the bike!
 
You should use a Gen 1 block too. My pistons use a 20mm pin not the Gen 2 18mm pins The 18s are nit as strong. This is why my motor is over $25,000.00. I spent $800.00 and $122.00 to 8 ozs and 2ozs.Now if I do not eat any more food I can save more weight and have more money to spend on the bike!

So Michael, are you saying the Gen1 is a better platform for making huge increases in power than the Gen2?
 
Htp worked with cp in design a custom nitrous piston. They make 4 pound bottles that fit on the swingarm. That’s enough nitrous for one pass. A couple pro street guys run big shots. But nitrous ain’t a 1/4 mile ideal on a bike when your talk about going real fast. Turbo is ideal cause the power advantage.
 
I don't know how I would feel about using a used turbo someone wanted to sell for some reason. I don't know enough about it. I've heard you can buy used turbo parts to put the whole thing together for about $2000. That's not a whole lot more than a well sorted nitrous setup. Turbos are a lot more complex though. I'm sure there are a lot of things that could be wrong or just about to go wrong if you buy used turbo parts.

I've also heard of turbo bikes never running 100% right too. The owner spends a year putting the whole system in and the tuning part is more than they can handle. With a 300 shot of nitrous, I bet you would have many of the same issues. ...but you only have that nitrous window to worry about tuning You won't be using nitrous under 6000 rpm. All you have to worry about there is how to avoid accidentally activating the NOS at the wrong time.
 
Lots to write about on this topic but I'll be brief. HTP is a great resource for everything you need to get the job done. They know a lot about nitrous. I would use their recommendation for all the parts needed. APE is a good resource for parts HTP doesn't have. Gen-1 block, pistons (CP), and rods (Carrillo) are certainly better than Gen-2, but you may decide to run no cooling system and if so there are good aftermarket blocks that would be a better choice than a Gen-1 block. If you run a cooling system you can buy an aftermarket block that is as good as a Gen-1 and you don't have to mess around buying a core, especially if you are staying stock bore (I would bore it). I prefer the Gen-2 platform because it has two injectors per cylinder which makes it easier to get enough fuel without making tuning idle and low rpm's challenging. Gen-2 heads are a lot more expensive and you should have a spare or two to spray that much. I highly recommend an aftermarket ECU to control everything. I run a Maxx Race on my bike that I spray 120 hp on. The bike I spray 80 on uses a stock ECU but it has 4 other boxes (Woolich log box, wideband controller, nitrous controller, Smith auto-shift) on it and you have to make them all work together. The stock ECU setup does not have the safeties built in, and it doesn't control fueling like the Maxx. For sure you want multiple stages of nitrous. You can't take a 300 shot and progress it down to the level you need to start spraying off the line (maybe 40hp) because the solenoids aren't effective at that duty cycle. Make sure you buy good solenoids, there are a number of them out there.
 
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