2018 Oil Change

mattymatt716

Registered
Just picked up a new 2018, and I was planning to change the oil last night. I noticed that the oil cooler line is right in front of the oil filter.

1) Has anyone been able to navigate around this? I haven‘t tried to pull the oil filter out yet but am curious.

2) Do I need a replacement gasket for the oil line?

3) Is there an aftermarket line relocation that would allow me to re-route this line so that I am not having to take it off? The fewer opportunities for leaks and user-malfunction, the better.

Thanks in advance.
 
1) Has anyone been able to navigate around this? I haven‘t tried to pull the oil filter out yet but am curious.
It's just the nature of the beast there matty matt. I'm on my 5th Busa over the last 20 years.Lots of oil changes. :thumbsup: The line looks to be a prob but isn't really. Get the filter with the nut on the end,or the giant socket to fit the end of any filter,you'll be glad you did. Rubb.
 
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The video is good, but I would take the opportunity to change out the crush washer[oil plug] and test the switch for your dash's "idiot light" too.Just my paranoia acting up again.:crazy: Rubb.
 
Just picked up a new 2018, and I was planning to change the oil last night. I noticed that the oil cooler line is right in front of the oil filter.

1) Has anyone been able to navigate around this? I haven‘t tried to pull the oil filter out yet but am curious.

2) Do I need a replacement gasket for the oil line?

3) Is there an aftermarket line relocation that would allow me to re-route this line so that I am not having to take it off? The fewer opportunities for leaks and user-malfunction, the better.

Thanks in advance.
Be careful when reinstalling the drain plug that you don't over-torque it. I stripped the oil pan threads the first time I changed the oil. Had to order a new oil pan, oil pan gasket, etc. and then do quite a bit of disassembly to replace those parts. I threw out my cheap torque wrench and invested in a $170 digital wrench that beeps when you approach the set torque (23 N-m in this case).
 
I read some threads that people were saying that the oil filter wouldn’t come out unless the oil cooler line was removed. I found that to NOT be the case for mine. The clearances seem close (just like the Gen 1), but it was no different.

The most difficult part of all this was removing the right fairing. Specifically, the dual bottom bolts were a pain to get snapped back together. Seriously, it took me a while to figure out how to do it.

I did have an accurate torque wrench, and have been able to avoid stripping threads so far- thankfully. I’m pretty sure I came close with my Gen 1 so I used loctite (blue) and had no issues for 30k miles.

Thanks for everyone’s insight. The Gen 2 plastics were not much more difficult to remove than the Gen 1 once I figured it out.
 
I found it to be fairly easy to change out the filter as well....

Would have been nice if Suzuki put an access panel for this as well as a way to get to the coolant bottle without taking the fairing off.
 
I found out later on you don t have to remove the right fairing not completely anyway to access the oil filter just remove all of the fairing screws then gently pry it open there is enough room to get your hand in there :thumbsup:
 
I found out later on you don t have to remove the right fairing not completely anyway to access the oil filter just remove all of the fairing screws then gently pry it open there is enough room to get your hand in there :thumbsup:
I read that as well but would be concerned about stressing the fairing..
 
I read that as well but would be concerned about stressing the fairing..
I always used to take the right fairing off completely and sometimes it was a pain to install it back on before I sold my 08 I thought I try the pry method and it worked out good with no damage to the fairings and the process was a lot quicker :thumbsup:
 
for decades now
i use this tool allways at all busa or similar oilfilters
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easy to use and not really expensive.
here i can buy it at "amazon" for ~ 6,-€ plus shiping, called "Oil Filter Strap Wrench"
 
I always used to take the right fairing off completely and sometimes it was a pain to install it back on before I sold my 08 I thought I try the pry method and it worked out good with no damage to the fairings and the process was a lot quicker :thumbsup:
I will probably continue to take the fairing off as it gives me the opportunity to peek underneath and check the coolant bottle as well as look things over...I take both side fairings off periodically to do this...OCD sucks sometimes...….
 
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