2013 Steel Braided Lines

Labow

Registered
You mean they put Bembo brakes and just rubber brake hoses to oeprate them. Just don't get that?
 

GoldenChild

DID HE REALLY SAY THAT?
Donating Member
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Yes... I wouldn't use anything else. I have installed all brands and the name speaks for itself..I rather not sell anything or to use junk on my bike or customers bike, than to spend more money for quality parts...


Are Speigler the ones with the rotating banjo fittings?
 

Telboy2000

Registered
the 2013 can't change its lines...special fitting are used similar to car brake pipes.
The rubber hoses you see are only a foot or so long then its steel pipe all the way to the ABS modulator.
 

Chaney3000

Registered
Yes... I wouldn't use anything else. I have installed all brands and the name speaks for itself..I rather not sell anything or to use junk on my bike or customers bike, than to spend more money for quality parts...

Ok. I got some goodridge lines for the front. And I did have to work them into position to get the banjos to line up properly. Not to mention the front is dropped so I had to flare the lines out some to make sure the cleared everything.
 

Blrry

Registered
the 2013 can't change its lines...special fitting are used similar to car brake pipes.
The rubber hoses you see are only a foot or so long then its steel pipe all the way to the ABS modulator.

I know this is an old thread - but in case anyone is dredging the old posts for information - the '13+ Busa can change its lines, but you have to CUT out the steel pipe brake lines in several chunks to get them out (without dropping the motor from the frame, anyway) and then you can easily thread the new Spiegler stainless steel braided brake lines with ease. At least from the brake MC to the ABS unit. I didn't run them from the ABS to the calipers... yet.
 

murphc13

Registered
I have Spiegler lines on my 2013.I imported from the USA and coupled with my RCS master cylinder the bike stops almost as well as any thou ive had....WORD!!!!
 

Busawannab

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image.jpeg
I know this is an old thread - but in case anyone is dredging the old posts for information - the '13+ Busa can change its lines, but you have to CUT out the steel pipe brake lines in several chunks to get them out (without dropping the motor from the frame, anyway) and then you can easily thread the new Spiegler stainless steel braided brake lines with ease. At least from the brake MC to the ABS unit. I didn't run them from the ABS to the calipers... yet.

I'll bring this thread up again too.

I just put spiegler brake and clutch lines on my 2014 ABS busa. I was able to manuver all the lines out and replace them with just a few cuss words.

I will run you through it for anyone who is thinking of taking this on.

First of all do not take the lines off before you get your replacements... There is one oem hard line that stays. It's good to see what lines go where. Spiegler instructions were fine with a few pictures of where to route the lines and each line is labeled with what end goes on the master cylinder or which side caliper so you don't try to put them on backwards.

I purchased mine from Sportbiketrackgear.com. They were a bit cheaper than the manufacturer and I had them add an inch to the lines that needed it because I have risers on my bars. They did it with no extra charge. I looked for the clutch line on thier site but they did not have it. I found it on the spiegler site... Emailed it to them... And they thanked me and had them available within days and again it was cheaper than the manufacturer! Again added an extra inch for no charge. Very pleased with those guys there. I have issues with fed ex in my area and they were able to ship from USPS for me again for no extra charge.

You can move the banjos to fit if you need to turn them a bit but I found most of mine were lined up pretty good. I was kinda amazed to be honest.

I used a vacum bleeder and wow that was nice! (First time using one). Didn't spill a drop removing or bleeding... Not a single drop!

I disconnected the battery as I usually do while working on any of my vehicles but I had read here that you should to not have any issues with th abs once it's all reinstalled.

Once it was all drained ( which I did do a few days before parts arrived) I put small rolled up paper towels in the banjos to soak up any fluid I did not get from vacum but they all stayed pretty much dry with only a couple with noticeable small wet spots. Make sure you cover your paint, brake fluid eats paint.

I started the removal process which was kinda a bitch but I was able to get all the lines out and only had to slightly bend the one that goes up to the front master. Of course you have to remove the gas tank and airbox to get to all these lines. There is a small hex head screw under the box that tightens the box to the intakes on each side...don't loosen too much because a small nut on the back side will come loose and drop. Ya I speak from experience there! I had to pry the bands a bit to loosen them enough to get the box off...(new bike so it's never been off yet) There is a few hoses to remove and an electrical connection. No big deal.

I did have all my fairings removed front and rear since you need to get to the rear master cylinder. The fronts need to come off for the clutch line, at least the left side. You probably could leave the right side on if you want but I was putting fairing screens on at the same time. ( lots of down time from weather and recovery from a surgery so I could do a little and then come back to it later)

Run the lines and make sure you replace the washers on the banjos top and bottom. (Spieglers come with color matching banjos to match your choice of line ends.) The lines run from the rear master to the abs unit then the abs unit back to the back caliper. They run from the front master to the abs then from abs to the manifold under front using the stock hardline. Then from left side caliper to the right side caliper and up to the manifold from the double banjos on right caliper. 5 lines in all with the correct ends to go right into the abs unit. I ran them all and screwed the banjos in hand tight. You will be replacing the manifold block up in the front end just above the front fender which for me went fine just remember there is a small cone shaped piece that goes in before you hook the oem hardline back in. ( at least on my spiegler lines).

Once I was happy with the routing and connections I went through and tightened each connection. Again bleeding was a breeze. Once done I zip tied the clutch and front brake levers tight to the grips and don't know if I needed to but I hung a weight from the rear brake pedal and left the covers off, but covered, overnight to allow any trapped air to work its way out. Next morning I checked for any leaks and put her all back together.

Everything works great! I'm amazed they want you to change the lines every four years or whatever. Why don't they just put good lines on from the start!? We talking about a fast fast machine I would think they would treat the stopping of these things with a little more than rubber lines. But hey that's just me.

The only issue I had with my spiegler lines is the way they want you to attach the clips to hold the abs sending lines to the new lines. It's a small rubber hose slipped over the line in the stock places to reuse the stock clips. They just don't fit the clips very well looks a little cheesy if you look close but they seem to be holding ok. The rubber tube is too big for the oem clips. I wish spiegler would have come up with a new clip or a better fitting wrap to hold clips.

Anyway I hope that helps anyone who is thinking of doing this. It really wasn't that hard. Just take your time and ease stuff out and off. Last thing you want is a bloody knuckle or a broke piece on the bike from ripping stuff out! For me I wasn't in a real hurry so it took maybe 3 days working an hour here and there. Didn't really keep track of over all time it took but I'm very pleased with how it all came out.

Had my calipers off and painted them with caliper paint. In hindsight I think I should have had them powdercoated but I have spent a lot on the bike lately and didn't want to piss off the wife hah! They turned out ok with self leveling paint but again powder coating would have been better.

Picture doesn't show the lines well but I went with white. I knew the red ones wouldn't match and I needed a little more white on the bike!


Laters
Busawannab ( no longer )
 

Mythos

Registered
Nice writeup busawanab and that is ONE HOT looking busa you have!!! Love that small shorty with the red tip. Man, tat looks nice. Red calipers. I think you'll be happy with the painted calipers. I have rattle canned stuff on both my bikes and it has held up fine. These bikes are kept out of the elements most of the time and paint is really ok. just keep solvent off for about 3-4 months cuz that will take it right off. White lines look good. Never very visible on the front. I may think about using MGP style front lines someday. They wrap around the front of the forks (No idea why they do that but seems like it might be more visible).
 

c10

Registered
I have full stainless brake lines from Spiegler came with LSL handle bar kit on my 2014 . I was also able to get OEM steel lines out :) with out cutting .
 

FULLTWIST

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I have the first set made by CoreMotto. Best upgrade made for the Busa to me. No issues and worth every pennie.
 

GIXERHP

ok, ok...just a wee bit Irish...
Donating Member
Registered
Honestly, here why are you trying to save the oem lines,, wtf. Are you really going to take the braided line off the bike and go back to stock? NO

CUT THEM OFF if needed why waste the time to save them!
 

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