2000 Hayabusa restoration

Hello everyone, newish busa owner here, I bought it last summer and rode it a few times, it has a couple issues so it’s sat mostly. I figured I would start a thread to say hello and record my progress troubleshooting/fixing it’s issues.
2000 Hayabusa with full Akrapovic exhaust, Power commander 3, kind of poorly done tail delete, cheap bolt together swing-arm extension.
Issue # 1 - some genius put straps on the front, who likes driving around with no suspension? Easy fix, just removed the straps as soon as I got it home.
Issue # 2 - sometimes the low beam light doesn’t come on, haven’t looked into it yet since I rode during daylight when I was riding it. Assuming probably bad connection or the bulb is going out.
Issue # 3 - the odometer isn’t adding miles so I have no idea how many miles it actually has(stuck at 14,001 miles).
Issue # 4 -the speedometer is way off at cruising speed, doing 60ish while registering 45 mph(not sure if swingarm extension affects this or not)
Issue # 5 - clutch slips at take off occasionally, not sure if the clutch is getting really warn or if it’s the infamous loose basket design that was part of the idea to not kill newer riders trying to take off too fast.
Issue # 6 - the genius I bought it from removed the right front wheel caliper, disc and brake line to that side, because it “looks cooler”(I did get the caliper and banjo bolt and line from him when I bought it)
So, the first thing I will be doing is replacing the battery since the old one is dead(my bad, didn’t remove it and battery tend it sitting so long), after that I will be replacing the clutch, plates and springs since it’s old enough to warrant the change anyway(and oil and filter since it needs done and has to be drained to replace clutch). After that I plan on tackling the light issue and hopefully find out what’s up with the odo and just give all the wiring a general look over behind the body work. I like the look of the extension but I don’t like the cheap bolt together piece, so I may switch back to the stock location, and it needs a new chain at some point anyway(or at least a deep deep clean and lube). I will also be getting a new right side disc and reinstalling that sides caliper, the brakes were pretty wooden feeling with just the left side, also drain and replace the brake fluid with new since I will be right there. Anyway, those are my plans for the next hopefully less than a month or so as time allows so I can get her back up and riding this summer.
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Welcome, great looking 00. Mine was that color stock. Straps on the front are a drag racing mod, you just loosen it for street riding. Extensions aren't making the speedo off, it has at least one aftermarket sprocket causing that. If the clutch is slipping it needs to be replaced, the loose basket you're referring to is a back torque limiter, it won't cause slippage. It'll rattle ant clunk and make taking off sloppy, but not slip.
 
#1. The strap was prolly there for drag racing...or looks.Idiot.
#2. Loose connection prolly if its in/out.
#3. That is scary.No idea on mileage.
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#4. Front sprocket may have been changed or rear or both. This bike has all the signs of being dragged.
#5. Clutch maybe worn do to lots of launches. Fully inspect.
#6. Caliper removed to make "curb side" look cool. Stoopid. Also maybe an attempt to lighten the bike.
Rubb.
 
Welcome! Can't wait to see the progress you make getting this bike back in shape. SpeedoHealer will take care of the speedometer. You have a good plan for going through the rest and Rubb has added some good insight.
 
Welcome! Can't wait to see the progress you make getting this bike back in shape. SpeedoHealer will take care of the speedometer. You have a good plan for going through the rest and Rubb has added some good insight.
I'll look into one after I get the bike back riding, I can live with guessing and going with traffic to get close enough to the speed limit, I live in a rural area so I will be mostly small town and highway riding anyway.
 
#1. The strap was prolly there for drag racing...or looks.Idiot.
#2. Loose connection prolly if its in/out.
#3. That is scary.No idea on mileage.View attachment 1620868
#4. Front sprocket may have been changed or rear or both. This bike has all the signs of being dragged.
#5. Clutch maybe worn do to lots of launches. Fully inspect.
#6. Caliper removed to make "curb side" look cool. Stoopid. Also maybe an attempt to lighten the bike.
Rubb.
Thanks for the insights, looks like I'll be counting sprocket teeth and see what I have, I also already have an outlaw kevlar impregnated clutch upgrade(friction plates and springs included too), so it's getting a new clutch. I just ordered a set of cheap amazon front and rear bike lifts, so we will see how those do for securing the bike for helping with maintenance. The last bike I owned was a Katana so it had a centerstand and I never needed lifts, and that bike didn't need much maintenance anyway. I hear you on the bolt on extension, it just looks like it might break, but I do like the geometry change that an extension gives on a bike with this much power, I can do a block long burn out and don't have to worry about getting too much grip and popping up, lol. A fabricated whole extended swing arm may be in the future.
 
Thanks for the insights, looks like I'll be counting sprocket teeth and see what I have, I also already have an outlaw kevlar impregnated clutch upgrade(friction plates and springs included too), so it's getting a new clutch. I just ordered a set of cheap amazon front and rear bike lifts, so we will see how those do for securing the bike for helping with maintenance. The last bike I owned was a Katana so it had a centerstand and I never needed lifts, and that bike didn't need much maintenance anyway. I hear you on the bolt on extension, it just looks like it might break, but I do like the geometry change that an extension gives on a bike with this much power, I can do a block long burn out and don't have to worry about getting too much grip and popping up, lol. A fabricated whole extended swing arm may be in the future.
Cool. Do you have a manual for it yet?
If not...CLICK HERE
Rubb.
 
Thanks for the insights, looks like I'll be counting sprocket teeth and see what I have, I also already have an outlaw kevlar impregnated clutch upgrade(friction plates and springs included too), so it's getting a new clutch. I just ordered a set of cheap amazon front and rear bike lifts, so we will see how those do for securing the bike for helping with maintenance. The last bike I owned was a Katana so it had a centerstand and I never needed lifts, and that bike didn't need much maintenance anyway. I hear you on the bolt on extension, it just looks like it might break, but I do like the geometry change that an extension gives on a bike with this much power, I can do a block long burn out and don't have to worry about getting too much grip and popping up, lol. A fabricated whole extended swing arm may be in the future.
Like Rubb said, it sounds as though this bike was run pretty hard. Your bike was originally equipped with a center stand, though most removed it. They can be found in eBay and other places still , if you're interested.
 
If they happened to have put an h.i.d bulb in that may be the reason ot doesn't always come on. There is a trick to holding the start button before turning the ignition on then squeezing the clutch to start the bike so that the ballast will work properly. Does take a little getting used to abs have to remember to let go of the starter button and not the clutch once it's started but I did this for quite awhile when I had hids. Welcome to the madness that is the org :thumbsup:
 
Finally have enough time to start the tear down to change the clutch and pulled the gauge cluster to see everything better, I do have a hid low beam conversion and it appears that maybe the bulb is now burnt out as the center circle inside the tube is cloudy and wiggling any of the wires didn’t even get it to flicker to life. There is also a switch for some blue leds that someone did a shoddy job of installing because one of the connectors on the switch was off and a ground wire on one of the led strips is broke. So far there is no obvious reason why the gauge cluster isn’t adding miles, especially when the tach and speedo are working. I should be able to get the oil drained and clutch changed later after dinner.

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Oil changed and clutch swapped, the old friction plates definitely had some heat stress and the friction pads themselves looked around half worn down compared to the new ones, hard to eyeball something that thin though, the new springs were also a little bit taller than the old ones, so all in all a worthwhile change. On the oil change, does everyone have to remove the oil cooler line to get their old filter out and new one in or is it just those of us with aftermarket exhaust?

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It’s alive! Got the old hack job hid ballast and associated wiring removed and Sylvania silver star in, a previous owner lost or threw away the bulb adapter and rubber surround for the headlight so I had to cut the end off of part of the hid wiring and crimp on some heat shrink female spade ends so I could get power to the stock style bulb and then I put a couple beads of silicone on each side of the bottom area of the bulb seat after I got it in place and the wire holder back into position, so it’s kind of a hack job to replace a hack job but it will work for now, too much nice weather is already gone without me riding anything but a dirt bike, all I have left to do for now is clean and lube the chain and get insurance back on it and I will be in the wind again!

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