2000 Hayabusa overfueling????

[David Offor]

Hi i originally posted a problem, of noise from engine and bad running (i had the timing out on the chain by half a tooth).
Another issue i traced to the fuel pump regulator (out of tank pump set up) only supplying 31psi to injector rail, should be 43psi, so ive converted to later 'pump in tank' setup, bike is running better with plenty of power but smells very rich and a co test at my garage has shown high co and high level of unburnt hydrocarbons (fuel).
I have good spark, good compressions, injectors have been checked and cleaned, Ive checked the water sender at 20degrees for correct resistance the map sensor for correct voltage readings the air temp sensor for correct resistance, balanced throttle bodies after setting the tps (throttle position sensor) in dealer mode.
Im thinking along the lines of getting the ecu checked/remaped, CKP (crank shaft position sensor), cam shaft sensor, gear position sensor, side stand switch????
Im a bit stuck to be honest, any suggestions would be appreciated.
Dave.

P.s the bike is standard, no power comander, i have fitted a tre (deristricter) but have tried the bike without it, with no change.

 

[VIPER]

the tre is the problem. It makes the bike run rich if i remember correctly in 1-4. Pulling the tre will not fix the problem instantly....Need to ride some and it will clean out. Tre mods are a fad of the past that honestly worsened issues more then ever gave power. Remove tre and ride a while....It should straighten out.

 

[David Offor]

After a little investigation, ive seen posts concerning A/F ratio meters, is there an affordable way i can check and adjust this on my bike, i think the over fueling could be caused by this but is ultimately controlled by the ecu, if its telling the injectors to stay open too long.
I think i will check the CKP sensor first, ive also found a gadget on ebay that you can plug into the bike, which allows you to alter the mixture but i don't know if this will just mask the problem or fix the problem???

 

[David Offor]

Hi viperwhitebusa, thank you very much for the advice, ive just taken it off but will have to wait to try it (12.15am here), i had a busa same as this one 5 years ago and fitted a tre with no side effects, that's why i fitted one to this bike.
I will post an update tomorrow, fingers crossed, ive been getting a little fed up, lol.
Thanks again. Dave

the tre is the problem. It makes the bike run rich if i remember correctly in 1-4. Pulling the tre will not fix the problem instantly....Need to ride some and it will clean out. Tre mods are a fad of the past that honestly worsened issues more then ever gave power. Remove tre and ride a while....It should straighten out.

 

[David Offor]

Hello again all.
Bike update.
Removing the tre had no effect, went for a blast 160 no problem, no misfiring at high revs but seems low on power in 1st from 1500 rpm.
I tried another ecu but runs the same.
There was a lot of rust in the old tank and my dad has suggested that the bad fuel could erode the metal in the injectors, thus letting through too much fuel, another suggestion is to change the throttle bodies.
Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Dave.

 

[Busarider007]

Did you replace the fuel filters in the pump when you replaced to in-tank mod? what about fuel lines? maybe crimped due to age n heat?

 

[dadofthree]

You've checked and done so much, is it a good assumption that the air filter is new ? These bikes run rich, some will tell you not rich enough.

 

[1bondoman]

You sure you have good vacuum going to the map sensor?

 

[David Offor]

Hello again.
Thank you for your time .
It has a new air filter.
The overfueling (high co and unburnt fuel/hydrocarbons) symptoms were there with the old set up but made worse when I fitted the new pump because now I have higher pressure supplying the injectors, so it won't be a filter or fuel line issue (I now have only 1 fuel hose going to the injector rail).
I changed the gear position sensor last night because I fitted a clutch from a 18000k bike (mine has done 40000).
I also changed the side stand switch.
Still no difference with the rough idle, I've blanked off the vacuum on the left of the throttle bodies and taken the VCSV out of the equation, I've also cut the air box, this has given me much better throttle response, without 'bogging down' on acceleration.
I've changed the vacuum hoses to the map sensor but I'm unable to check what signal the map sensor is sending back to the ecu from the suction it's under and it's possible the one I tried was also faulty.
So I think next test is to try another map sensor, to eliminate that.
The only other thing really left are the injectors, which were tested and cleaned, maybe they are all worn the same amount??
Thanks again and I will post an update when I've tried another map and some different injectors.
P.s I was told that bikes are setup more lean than rich but I will go online and search a bit.
There is a device on ebay for 80£ that lets me lean off the mixture -4% but I'd rather fix the actual problem rather than masking it. Also could running different heat range plugs help?

 

[1bondoman]

To test the map sensor start the bike let it idle. Unplug the vacuum line from it. If it's working the bike will get even more rich and try to bog.
You don't have a line on the barometric pressure switch do you ?

 

[David Offor]

Hi 1bondoman.
When I disconect the map sensor vacuum the bike dies.
What do you mean, when you say "a line on the barometric sensor switch"?
I've found that the idle is lumpy and the smell from the exhaust is very rich, also acceloreation from tickover feels sluggish, very good signs of over fueling.

 

[1bondoman]

I'll post a pic later

 

[David Offor]

I'll post a pic later

Thanks .