1999 Hayabusa dying at operating temp, then won't start until cooled.

Leut_Dan

Leut_Dan

Registered
Hello,

New to the forums, not new to motors! I have searched, everything I've read says i shouldn't be having issues at this point.

I picked up a 99 Busa with 9,000 miles that had been sitting for 10 years or so, it required some TLC to get it going. Fuel tank had rusted due to old fuel and fuel lines were rotten so i pulled the system apart and cleaned.

  • New fuel lines and inline clear filter.
  • New Battery
  • Newer model Busa fuel pump
  • New plugs properly gaped
  • In pump filter removed
  • New O-Rings in fuel pump case
  • Bottom fuel pump screen replaced
  • Injectors sonic cleaned
  • Fuel tank cleaned
  • Fuel cock filter removed
  • Fuel pump insulation replaced with aluminium lined foam
  • Adjusted TPS

The bike stalls and wont start until its cooled down, the random stalling problems and such have been fixed by the things done above. Bike is also in Dealer Mode wishing for a code.

I've seen the "low pressure fuel pump mod" but i feel like that could cause a lean issue at higher RPMs do to pulling fuel through a low pressure pump.

I really don't want to replace the tank since the bike has such low miles and is in good condition for its age. I feel like that would effect its value down the road.

Could the pump still be getting vapor lock? What would your next step be?
 
Leut_Dan said:
Hello,

New to the forums, not new to motors! I have searched, everything I've read says i shouldn't be having issues at this point.

I picked up a 99 Busa with 9,000 miles that had been sitting for 10 years or so, it required some TLC to get it going. Fuel tank had rusted due to old fuel and fuel lines were rotten so i pulled the system apart and cleaned.

  • New fuel lines and inline clear filter.
  • New Battery
  • Newer model Busa fuel pump
  • New plugs properly gaped
  • In pump filter removed
  • New O-Rings in fuel pump case
  • Bottom fuel pump screen replaced
  • Injectors sonic cleaned
  • Fuel tank cleaned
  • Fuel cock filter removed
  • Fuel pump insulation replaced with aluminium lined foam
  • Adjusted TPS

The bike stalls and wont start until its cooled down, the random stalling problems and such have been fixed by the things done above. Bike is also in Dealer Mode wishing for a code.

I've seen the "low pressure fuel pump mod" but i feel like that could cause a lean issue at higher RPMs do to pulling fuel through a low pressure pump.

I really don't want to replace the tank since the bike has such low miles and is in good condition for its age. I feel like that would effect its value down the road.

Could the pump still be getting vapor lock? What would your next step be?
Click to expand...
Search how to change dealer mode It was posted awhile back. Good luck.
 
My suggestion is to remove the fuel pump housing from where it lives,, open it up and fit a genuine OEM fuel filter.
Not a good idea to just remove it altogether, this may very well be the cause of the problem.
It appears the fuel quantity in the housing is now excessive and overheating, causing cavitatation aka 'vapor lock'.
Also check the screen in the fuel pressure regulator orifice if you haven't done so already. It may be clogged and upsetting fuel pressure.
Have you actually tested the fuel pressure and delivery?
Also, the correct insulation of these external fuel pumps is crucial to eliminate any chance of overheating the fuel. . be meticulous when insulating and fitting the foam, leave no gaps at all!
I know it's a lot of work but it will pay off . . believe me, I have a '99 model too and have been through this too.
 
Kiwi Rider said:
My suggestion is to remove the fuel pump housing from where it lives,, open it up and fit a genuine OEM fuel filter.
Not a good idea to just remove it altogether, this may very well be the cause of the problem.
It appears the fuel quantity in the housing is now excessive and overheating, causing cavitatation aka 'vapor lock'.
Also check the screen in the fuel pressure regulator orifice if you haven't done so already. It may be clogged and upsetting fuel pressure.
Have you actually tested the fuel pressure and delivery?
Also, the correct insulation of these external fuel pumps is crucial to eliminate any chance of overheating the fuel. . be meticulous when insulating and fitting the foam, leave no gaps at all!
I know it's a lot of work but it will pay off . . believe me, I have a '99 model too and have been through this too.
Click to expand...
The only thing I will add to this is to ensure that the fuel lines have the metal coils around them still, and that they are not getting kinked when the tank is put back down, and check that the petcock is open all the way. Verify this by removing the line and watching the fuel feed as you turn the valve.
 
Kiwi Rider said:
My suggestion is to remove the fuel pump housing from where it lives,, open it up and fit a genuine OEM fuel filter.
Not a good idea to just remove it altogether, this may very well be the cause of the problem.
It appears the fuel quantity in the housing is now excessive and overheating, causing cavitatation aka 'vapor lock'.
Also check the screen in the fuel pressure regulator orifice if you haven't done so already. It may be clogged and upsetting fuel pressure.
Have you actually tested the fuel pressure and delivery?
Also, the correct insulation of these external fuel pumps is crucial to eliminate any chance of overheating the fuel. . be meticulous when insulating and fitting the foam, leave no gaps at all!
I know it's a lot of work but it will pay off . . believe me, I have a '99 model too and have been through this too.
Click to expand...

FPR screen is clean. I don't have a way to test pressure, however it runs great until it dies and wont restart.

I did find a thread stating that the fuel pump needed to be purged of air via the FPR 10mm bolt.

Im not sure the extra space from the missing filter would be enough to effect anything.

Has anyone looked at the angle of the fuel pump? If air did enter the system it would go straight to the injectors instead of to the return line.

I rode 10 miles yesterday and it was 70 degrees on the interstate. As soon as i stopped the bike at a turn near my house it died and would not restart.
 
Mr Brown said:
The only thing I will add to this is to ensure that the fuel lines have the metal coils around them still, and that they are not getting kinked when the tank is put back down, and check that the petcock is open all the way. Verify this by removing the line and watching the fuel feed as you turn the valve.
Click to expand...

The valves on the 99 doesn't have the tab on the cock to turn it off.

Double checked the lines and they are not able to be kinked.
 
Leut_Dan said:
The valves on the 99 doesn't have the tab on the cock to turn it off.

Double checked the lines and they are not able to be kinked.
Click to expand...
Correct, but it still turns like one. Grind a slot in it and turn it with a screwdriver.
What do you mean not able to be kinked? Is the metal still in place?
 
Mr Brown said:
Correct, but it still turns like one. Grind a slot in it and turn it with a screwdriver.
What do you mean not able to be kinked? Is the metal still in place?
Click to expand...

I'm on board with that, i would love to have a functional cock. No puns intended.

My line comes from the tank to a inline filter, then comes up the passenger side of the pump over and in. I did this to keep from using 90 elbows and avoid kinking.
 
On my 00 I ended up going turbo, a Bosch 043 and aeromotive regulator replaced the junk factory setup. I honestly don't remember the fuel pressure, but I'm sure someone will chime in. If you can afford better setup, get rid of the stock stuff.
 
The fuel pressure should be 40-45psi at the fuel rail.
This is strange (your situation) . . . I have a 1999 model as I've already said, and I took ownership of the bike at 75,000km.
At 85,000kms it developed a lean surge when cruising at 110-120kmh.
I also noticed the km per litre readout was 20 to 21 . . very lean.
My fuel pump 'sleeve' was very clogged on the screen, the regulator screen was fine, I cleaned it all up, replaced the filter, took great care in wrapping the pump with the OEM foam and cable tying the foam tight and refitted the pump and have never had a fuel delivery problem since.
It now has 117,000kms and 4 years later, my km per liter now averages 17, so much better.
That is why I said you should set it back to stock with a new filter in the housing, my suspicion is that your problem is caused by the change in configuration you have made, by removing that filter and placing an aftermarket filter in-line. It appears you have eliminated every other possible cause and you have been very thorough in your checks.

I am trying to follow a path of logic here . . put it this way, if it was me having this issue, I would just set it back to stock as a 're-set' and then have that element eliminated from the diagnosis procedure.
That's my 2 cents . . I'm out.
 
Last edited:
Mr Brown said:
On my 00 I ended up going turbo, a Bosch 043 and aeromotive regulator replaced the junk factory setup. I honestly don't remember the fuel pressure, but I'm sure someone will chime in. If you can afford better setup, get rid of the stock stuff.
Click to expand...
Hi Mr Brown. May I ask where you mounted the Bosch 043 and witch Aeromotive filter and are you using AN lines? Oh how did you mount the pump and filter, what did you use for mounts? Thank you!
 
michael parris heuberger said:
Hi Mr Brown. May I ask where you mounted the Bosch 043 and witch Aeromotive filter and are you using AN lines? Oh how did you mount the pump and filter, what did you use for mounts? Thank you!
Click to expand...
The pump is mounted in the tail section, where the subframe bows out. The regulator is next to the breather on the block under the tank. I use a simple paper parts store filter, bike is tuned on C16 and I only use a dedicated jug and funnel, and they're never used for anything else.
 
Mr Brown said:
It kinda sucks to have to run the fuel all the way to the tail and back, but that's the best mounting location I could find.
Click to expand...
That’s how I did mine also.

DB6A0B15-47BA-4DA6-BB6B-4F6B3E121DD1.jpeg


A78C28F8-FBF5-442D-AE2F-B9011FFB36E5.jpeg
 
Have you checked the screens, in the injectors? If the bike was laid up for a long time, a restriction/blockage could have happened in the injectors, filters are designed to filter but not to restrict flow, so, I don’t see how removing the filter could cause vapour lock. I’d be doing a pressure test first, during priming, cranking and while the engine is running, anything over 42 psi is fine.
 
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