16g to 20g conversion

Hit Man

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I'm upgrading my Hahn kit to push around 380 to 400hp and I would like to go to the larger 20g. Does anyone know what needs to be changed to convert the 16g to a 20g? Should I change the compressor housing and the wheel or just the wheel? Is 20g the biggest Mitsu turbo in this confuguration (flange pattern)? I like the quick spool up from the 16g, but I would trade that for a cooler intake charge and less boost to make the same or more horsepower.
 
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I'm upgrading my Hahn kit to push around 380 to 400hp and I would like to go to the larger 20g. Does anyone know what needs to be changed to convert the 16g to a 20g? Should I change the compressor housing and the wheel or just the wheel? Is 20g the biggest Mitsu turbo in this confuguration (flange pattern)? I like the quick spool up from the 16g, but I would trade that for a cooler intake charge and less boost to make the same or more horsepower.

We do this conversion all the time . . . there are two 20G turbos that we have worked with. The first one uses your same turbine (hot) side, and is a larger compressor wheel and housing. That one will NOT get you the horsepower you are looking for. The second one - the one we call the 20G "shootout" turbo, is a completely different unit. Both sides, hot and cold, have larger wheels and housings. That one will make 400 horsepower with no problem . . .:cheerleader:
 
I've found a guy willing to trade my s2000 injectors for his 62# injectors and I'll get the ecu reflashed.
 
are you using a hub and 3 bar map sensor? Just asking as mapping low boost, and high boost, and everything in between is extremely difficult to do without something that will compensate for boost pressure.
 
How much does the shootout turbo cost? How is the spool up time?


Spool up time on a turbo like this is good - being a Mitsu, it still goes positive before 6,000 rpm. As far as cost is concerned, buying a Super 20G shootout turbo brand-new, and buying one modified to bolt directly onto a Hahn setup are two different things. A Super 20 shootout, ready to install, will cost just under $1300. That turbo still comes with an internal wastegate, which most customers do not want with that type of upgrade.

With an external gate installed, you will spend $2135 for that turbo:thumbsup:
 
Thanks for the info, I can convert to a t3 for less that. $800 for a wastegate is seems to be a rip off, especially in this economy. I can get a pt101 turbo for my truck for $2300.
Smithbusa, everyone in the tampa area likes the hub for tuning. Tampa is a city where 7 out of 10 performance shops have turbo bikes or turbo cars, sometimes both. With 3 dragstrips less than 45 minutes away open for tnt all year, its really amazing how many 1000hp street cars and turbo bikes are here. For bikes, the power commander and hub is the most common setup, so that's what most tuners here seem to prefer.
 
Thanks for the info, I can convert to a t3 for less that. $800 for a wastegate is seems to be a rip off, especially in this economy. I can get a pt101 turbo for my truck for $2300.
Smithbusa, everyone in the tampa area likes the hub for tuning. Tampa is a city where 7 out of 10 performance shops have turbo bikes or turbo cars, sometimes both. With 3 dragstrips less than 45 minutes away open for tnt all year, its really amazing how many 1000hp street cars and turbo bikes are here. For bikes, the power commander and hub is the most common setup, so that's what most tuners here seem to prefer.

Actually, it is not $800 for the wastegate, you are not seeing the whole picture. There's a shootout pipe in there for $135, so that brings it down to $700; then this is what is involved in putting a $325 wastegate on a Mitsubishi turbo: the existing internal gate has to be removed, and the turbine side machined to accept the new, larger wastegate pipe. The wastegate pipes, including a new dump for the gate itself, have to be fabricated and welding of the pipes and flanges take place. Then, after you've welded everything, the turbine housing is ported, and everything is sent out for ceramic coating so nothing rusts.

Maybe I should have explained all of that to you. It's not what it seems!:lol:
 
I can buy a master power t3/4 hybrid way cheaper, then fab and weld the header and wastegate flange myself. The Mitsu turbos seem to need alot work compared the t3/4 turbos. Parts for the hybrid turbos are easier to find too. Thanks for the input though, that saved me from a future headache. I'm just curious, how much power can the 16g/20g hybrid make?
 
I can buy a master power t3/4 hybrid way cheaper, then fab and weld the header and wastegate flange myself. The Mitsu turbos seem to need alot work compared the t3/4 turbos. Parts for the hybrid turbos are easier to find too. Thanks for the input though, that saved me from a future headache. I'm just curious, how much power can the 16g/20g hybrid make?

If you decide to just upgrade the wheel and compressor housing, and do what we would call a TD05/06, that unit will max out at about 375 RWHP, and is WAY cheaper to do . . .:banghead:
 
380/375 , I guess I could live with that. Which wheel goes with that?

The upgrade involves a larger compressor wheel, a different compressor housing that has to have the elbow welded on and be modified to accept the actuator for the wastegate, and the center section has to be clearanced for the bigger wheel. Also, a new ring seal is put on on the turbine side. I would be able to do the entire mod for $550, including shipping back to you.:laugh:
 
Thanks for the info I'll decide on this in the next 2 months. I'm getting the guts of the engine upgraded now. The wife hates me spending $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ on this thing.
 
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