Shouldn't be a plugged radiator...its brand new. There are no performance mods on it a all. The only thing I've done is a few oil change with suzuki motorcycle oil. idk. i'll post more info the next time I talk to the shop. I mean I'm sure I could switch to engine ice or a distilled water w/ water wetter and add another fan on a toggle and that would probably mask the problem but i'd like to solve it the right way. I'll post more info the next time I talk to the shop...thanks for all your interest and help.
07 Busa Internally blown head gasket??? Please Help
- Thread starter Busa Phil
- Start date
alright so I think the problem may be solved. apparently they had not changed the fan switch located on the upper left corner of the radiator which i thought they had. i had the bike last week after they told me it was done again. As usual, I left the shop and within a short period of time my fan was not operating properly and the bike started to heat up...the gauge is definitely operting correctly. I let the bike sit overnight. In the morning i checkted the radiator level and it was full. I went for a ride and the symptoms began. Then, I disconnected the harness on the switch and jumped it with a wire and the fan came on. I taped the wire so that it would stay connected and just ran the bike with the fan on full time. the temp gauge didn't even get close to halfway even with sitting in really slow traffic 45 minutes. it was staying super cool. so as a test, i pulled over and plugged the harness back into the switch on the radiator to let the fan operate normally. The first fan cycle came on at the correct temperature....but the second cycle came started 3/4 of the way up on the temp gauge. The switch must be screwed up. So I just used the jumper wire to take a 6 hour ride 
...needed that! Now the bike is back in the shop...they are changing the switch and i believe installing a manual switch to bypass the switch in the radiator. i'm thinking about running engine ice once the problem is straighteded out. oh and the shop tested for hydrocarbons in the coolant and it came out clean.
...needed that! Now the bike is back in the shop...they are changing the switch and i believe installing a manual switch to bypass the switch in the radiator. i'm thinking about running engine ice once the problem is straighteded out. oh and the shop tested for hydrocarbons in the coolant and it came out clean.
memorex
Registered
YOu would of thought they would have changed the temp switch first. But I guess if Suzuki is paying for it. They wanted to take the long route to squeeze more money out of them.
That would piss me off to no end. All this time you had to put up with the worry of over heating while these guys get extra money.
I'd ask for a kick back?
That would piss me off to no end. All this time you had to put up with the worry of over heating while these guys get extra money.
I'd ask for a kick back?
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as my faith in bike dealers falls to an all time low.... the most basic and obvious of issues is once again skipped in lieu of a more profitable one... just amazing..
basic wrenching 101... confirm the basics... Coolant level, gauge accuracy and cooling fan operation... hmmm lets just skip this stuff.. can not be any $$ in it...
Stuff amazes me... I would be in sheer terror of taking my bike to a shop..
basic wrenching 101... confirm the basics... Coolant level, gauge accuracy and cooling fan operation... hmmm lets just skip this stuff.. can not be any $$ in it...
Stuff amazes me... I would be in sheer terror of taking my bike to a shop..
SKnight
Registered
As soon as I read the list I thought about the switch itself. Some folks shouldn't be allowed to buy tools.
For the record mine would heat up in 90* weather sitting still, I put a Muzzy fan on and now it has to be 100* ambient before it gets hot in traffic. I was going to add a second fan but I don't have to commute in those conditions anymore.
For the record mine would heat up in 90* weather sitting still, I put a Muzzy fan on and now it has to be 100* ambient before it gets hot in traffic. I was going to add a second fan but I don't have to commute in those conditions anymore.
Ok...
...its not the radiator fan switch. I just picked up the bike with a new switch installed and the third fan cycle started above halfway on the temp gauge just like before...then it heated up. By the way, this is after 15-20 minutes in nyc rush hour traffic....which SUCKS!!!. Luckily though, they installed a toggle switch to bypass normal operating mode controlled by the radiator fan switch. With the toggle on and the fan running constantly, the bike stays at or below halfway in traffic. What the hell could be going on with this thing? Any more suggestions anyone..........thanks!
...its not the radiator fan switch. I just picked up the bike with a new switch installed and the third fan cycle started above halfway on the temp gauge just like before...then it heated up. By the way, this is after 15-20 minutes in nyc rush hour traffic....which SUCKS!!!. Luckily though, they installed a toggle switch to bypass normal operating mode controlled by the radiator fan switch. With the toggle on and the fan running constantly, the bike stays at or below halfway in traffic. What the hell could be going on with this thing? Any more suggestions anyone..........thanks!
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turbobusa2000
Registered
How was it diagnosed? Did they just deceide to tear into it?
Yeah I'm definitely relieved to finally know what the heck is causing this problem. The shop was pretty confident that there had to be a crack or something wrong with the gasket. They decided to open it up and found the crack. Suzuki has been sticking by the bike and offering support to the shop. I know that Suzuki had asked the shop to put 100psi into the cylinders with the engine cold and with the engine hot. The shop did this before they opened it up, but I'm not sure if the results of the tests identified the crack or not. I never asked them that.
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turbobusa2000
Registered
Good to hear Suzuki is covering it. How long before you back on the road again?
OB_John Noonan
Registered
I was going to guess a cracked head in the combustion chamber area..
Glad to hear you got it figured out, while it is apart put in some high comp stock bore pistons and port the head, run two intake cams with APE slotted sprockets and make about 180-188 hp and be good to go..if you need more info PM me.
Either way report back.
John
Glad to hear you got it figured out, while it is apart put in some high comp stock bore pistons and port the head, run two intake cams with APE slotted sprockets and make about 180-188 hp and be good to go..if you need more info PM me.
Either way report back.
John
Unfortunately, I don't have the money right now to take advantage of having her opened up. I'd really like to do the above mentioned mods but she's just gonna have to stay stock for now. The suggestions are appreciated though. I should be back on the road hopefully by this Monday the 20th. I'll let you all know how she's running.
I'll let you all know how she's running.when checking the coolant system holding pressure do this check when engine cold, then hot.. with engine not running..if the level is changing or bubbles seen in the system this can be from gasket on clynder head.. if so have the heads skimmed before new gasket is fitted have no more then .005" removed..
if you drill a small hole into filler cap on the coolant system & fit a tyre valve you can use a car pump to see if its holding pressure should be good for 40 psi for 30mins without dropping more then 1psi...means having to buy a new coolant cap later though..
air can sometimes happen through the pump cavitating ie pump working but not driving the coolant round the system with normal desired pressure..
remove the plugs and see in the pistons are wet from coolant... doing the testing with hot engine can burn off the coolant so its not possible to follow the trail.. but usually coolant has distinctive sweet rotten smell when its leaking.
if suzuki have agreed to do this work under warrantry you can choose any dealer to do the work. They will give the stealership a unique order number to carry out the work typically agreed to a budget.. this can be transferred to another stealership if your unhappy with the guys there..
if you drill a small hole into filler cap on the coolant system & fit a tyre valve you can use a car pump to see if its holding pressure should be good for 40 psi for 30mins without dropping more then 1psi...means having to buy a new coolant cap later though..
air can sometimes happen through the pump cavitating ie pump working but not driving the coolant round the system with normal desired pressure..
remove the plugs and see in the pistons are wet from coolant... doing the testing with hot engine can burn off the coolant so its not possible to follow the trail.. but usually coolant has distinctive sweet rotten smell when its leaking.
if suzuki have agreed to do this work under warrantry you can choose any dealer to do the work. They will give the stealership a unique order number to carry out the work typically agreed to a budget.. this can be transferred to another stealership if your unhappy with the guys there..
I just talked to the dealership a little bit ago. I'll be back on the road Wednesday. They are replacing the cylinder head assembly & gaskets. Just wondering though if anyone know if I will have to go through another break in period? Thanks! Oh and if anyone lives around the city and feels like riding pm me sometime. I work M - F but try to get out as much as possible on the weekends. I know some good roads up in the catskills also. Peace.
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