‘00 CCT best option for boosted engine

Velix

Registered
Alright everyone, what is recommended for cam chain tensioner on a 2000? Should I use an auto or manual version?

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If it makes any difference, mine will be easily accessible without removing anything. It’s in a vehicle now, not a bike.

How often do you have to adjust the manual ones?
 
If it makes any difference, mine will be easily accessible without removing anything. It’s in a vehicle now, not a bike.

How often do you have to adjust the manual ones?
Hi When you can hear the timing starting to rattle. Do NOT over tighten it. I use the Pro it is a race bike it will be run to 13500 RPM.
 
Thanks. Would that oil location work for the turbo inlet then, rather than going all the way to the other side?
 
Lots of folks have gone back to using OEM. I'm one of them.
If you use the manual, only tighten it hand tight. If using manual, don't blip your throttle up and down like you're a DJ on prom night or you're asking for trouble.
 
Lots of folks have gone back to using OEM. I'm one of them.
If you use the manual, only tighten it hand tight. If using manual, don't blip your throttle up and down like you're a DJ on prom night or you're asking for trouble.
Is there anything wrong with the early oem versions to be aware of? Any way to make them better?
I’ll also be using a high flow oil pump gear with a dry sump system
 
Lots of folks have gone back to using OEM. I'm one of them.
If you use the manual, only tighten it hand tight. If using manual, don't blip your throttle up and down like you're a DJ on prom night or you're asking for trouble.
awesome :laugh:
Rubb.
 
I don't know anything about the OEM busa CCT but other than bolts pattern, an APE manual tensioner for a busa can't be any different than the APE tensioner I have on my ZX-14. All an APE is is a mounting plate with o-ring seal and a big tensioner bolt going through the middle. You remove the OEM tensioner, bolt on the APE, thread in the tensioner bolt until you feel slight tension against the chain shoe. Turn the bike on, the timing chain will rattle because it's loose. Thread the bolt in until the rattle stops. Turn bike off and then I think you thread in 1/4 turn tighter, it will tell you in the installation directions. Tighten the jam nut on the tensioner bolt and you're done. The timing chain is under constant tension, no variation like automatic tensioners have. I haven't adjusted my 14's APE since I installed it about 30,000 miles ago. The timing chain hasn't made a noise since installing, not even on startup and startup rattle is one bothersome quirk about the 14. Highly recommended and I have never heard an automatic tensioner is safer in any way especially for race use. BUT like I said, I don't know how the OEM busa CCT works. Maybe there's something special about it.

One other thing, if you need to install an OEM tensioner on a ZX-14, you have to take the whole freaking valve cover off to spring the tensioner out. It's a pain. Probably the same routine for a busa.
 
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