Bill, I think they are asking why you put the Vacuum lines like you did at the end?
I'm wondering myself.
I'm wondering myself.
Jinkster's "how to synch your busa"
- Thread starter JINKSTER
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I just wanna say how glad I am to see threads like this that aren't about inane and irrelevant questions or polls, and simply about the bike!
Thank you Bill.
Thank you Bill.
Great tutorial! You made it look easy - I'm ready to get a manometer and give it a try!
I was also wondering why you reconnected the vacuum hoses the way you did instead of as originally done?
I was also wondering why you reconnected the vacuum hoses the way you did instead of as originally done?
Thats pretty good im a back yard mechanic and do most of the stuff on my bike But this is one I dont think I will attempt ..Might talk to a friend of mine about it ans see what he says . But my luck is it wouldnt run after words or it would be one of the oh Shid days..not worth the risk ..But looks pretty straight forward..You did a good job of explaining ...
OK, I need clarity on this. I thought the middle cylinders (the ones with longer stacks) were suppose to run richer than the two cylinders with short-stacks? If you synched all four the same, is it the stacks that actually richen the 2 middle cylinders? Or are the 2 cylinders in the middle suppose to be set a little richer than the 2 cylinders with the shortstacks?
I ask this because of a possible Lean condition on the middle cylinders while using nitrous. If all cylinders are synched the same, would the middle cylinders (The 2 running longer stacks) come into a lean condition while on NOS? If you look at the billet velocity stacks, all 4 are short stacks...I guess lots of Nitrous users use velocity stacks, or run all stock short-stakcs. Now if you synched all four cylinders the same while running all short stacks, wouldn't you encounter that lean condition if all throttle-bodies were synched the same?
I know with the PC3USB, I thought this gives the Dyno tune expert the ability to richen or lean each cylinder where the pc3r wouldnt allow individual cylinder adjustment. Thus the push for guys to buy the usb version and if timing was needed to be added or taken out the optional timing unit is avaliable to purchase for the usb version...yes much more expensive, but the ability to richen or lean each cylinder could make a huge difference for a racing application.
Help me understand all of this.
I ask this because of a possible Lean condition on the middle cylinders while using nitrous. If all cylinders are synched the same, would the middle cylinders (The 2 running longer stacks) come into a lean condition while on NOS? If you look at the billet velocity stacks, all 4 are short stacks...I guess lots of Nitrous users use velocity stacks, or run all stock short-stakcs. Now if you synched all four cylinders the same while running all short stacks, wouldn't you encounter that lean condition if all throttle-bodies were synched the same?
I know with the PC3USB, I thought this gives the Dyno tune expert the ability to richen or lean each cylinder where the pc3r wouldnt allow individual cylinder adjustment. Thus the push for guys to buy the usb version and if timing was needed to be added or taken out the optional timing unit is avaliable to purchase for the usb version...yes much more expensive, but the ability to richen or lean each cylinder could make a huge difference for a racing application.
Help me understand all of this.
pipe...here was my response to the same question posed on another board...
Almost 5 years ago I introduced the FZ1OA too "Jinksters 4-Way X-Over Manifold"....based on the old yamaha "Balance Tube" the seca's usta use known as Y.I.C.S. (yamaha induction control system) but I made'em up of fuel line and brass "T" fittings to eliviate any special tools need for blocking off the metal balance tube of the yics for individual carb synching...and I linked all 4 CV Carb nipples together...much like what you see on the stock busa arrangement here...and the FZ1 ran far smoother and actually gained nearly 7ftlbs in low-end torque dyno-dyno...and I sold out of'em...to the point that a guy bought the one right off my own personal FZ1...and while waiting for more barbed brass T-fittings to come in?....I just linked 1 too 4 and 2 too 3 and liked the results just as much if not moreso...with no brass T fittings involved...that's why I didn't hesitate to do what I did as looking under the tank of my busa was a surprising oh so familar shock to me...as I was so familiar with what exactly was going on.
However...just for security, piece of mind, and less questions? I may go ahead and swap it back to stock oem configs..and...L8R, Bill
I had mine done last Thursday at the dealer along with my oil change and tuneup. They said it wasnt due until 7,500 miles but went ahead and had them do it a little early so I wouldnt have to go back. All the work I had done was $200 and I have no problem paying that. I'd rather someone who knows what they're doing work on my bike. I'd screw it up for sure and besides, I really hate working on anything mechanical. I guess some people enjoy wrenching like I enjoy riding, golf, skydiving, and a million other things. Time is precious!
nope....what you are adjusting here are the butterflys in the throttle bodies....which are downstream of any inner stack/airbox flowpaths...and you are simply "synchronizing" the butterflys unto each other...so that all are pulling the same vacume/velocity...with all four working together in perfect harmony...as multi-carb/t-body engines that are out of synch is like a four piece band that's out of....
tune.
BTW....I just synched Ride_or_Fish's new hayabusa but minutes ago...and will be doing Dakkines sometime this week after work..they both just left after helping me line up my fairing and I took a ride on my beast with the t-bodies synched and the new akro race and...OMG!
L8R, Bill.
Bill, thanks a bunch for spending time on my bike. Besides having learned a thing or two, I think the bike is running glass-smooth!
NP Paul...glad I could be of some assistance...and yeah....she seemed to run glass smooth to me.Bill, thanks a bunch for spending time on my bike. Besides having learned a thing or two, I think the bike is running glass-smooth!
wow...I just bought my busa and was going to sell my gauge set when I sold my old R6...this is the first fuel injected bike I've had and I figured there was no synching involved...thought i'd never have to synch carbs again...little did I know i'd have to synch fuel injection...oh well, what are ya gonna do?
yep...true story...as buying a FI'ed bike only means that "Just The Fuel Is Injected" but...not the air that accompanies it...which is metered through your throttle bodies...via the throttle position of the butterfly valves in the throats of those throttle bodies...all four of'em...and if they ain't in synch?...performance suffers and..enter "Excessive Engine Vibrations".wow...I just bought my busa and was going to sell my gauge set when I sold my old R6...this is the first fuel injected bike I've had and I figured there was no synching involved...thought i'd never have to synch carbs again...little did I know i'd have to synch fuel injection...oh well, what are ya gonna do?
and no...I'm not really this smart but I did sleep at a holiday inn express last night.
L8R, Bill.
Hey Kev...I only hooked'em up like that cause I hadta cut off my stock hoses as they were cooked onto the nipples and was in a rush...then thought about the very same "weak vacume sig" you just mentioned and I went back to the stock config 4 way X-over...but seat of the pants couldn't tell any dif...no biggy either way....done this sorta thing before on none FI'ed bikes I've owned...btw...the stock hose is 4mm (.160") ID..I replaced it all with 5/32ths...(.156")...again no biggy....just a tighter fit/seal and available at most auto parts stores.
L8R, Bill.
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