Being a 2011 model, overhauling of steering stem is required. But busa has specialized nut to remove the steering stem.
Procedure as follows:
1. Remove/lift fuel tank
2. loosen steering assy. top nut (golden one), 32MM loosen wheel assy. RH pinch first then axle nut. loosen LH pinch bolts.
3. DO NOT LIFT BIKE FROM STEERING SIDE, IT WOULD BE DIFFICULT TO REMOVE AND REFITTED HANDLE BAR HOLDER.
4. Remove both side fairing, route the straps from frame (shown is picture), Avoid overlapping of strap with wiring harness, clutch hose pipe.
5. After lifting the bike, loosening of handle bar holder it can removed.
6. Steering lock nut is special for that
a mild steel rod having bore.
7. Take dimension of lock nut (ID, OD, Notch width/depth), using Autocad software kindly confirm dimension and imprint those on mild steel with marker, cut excess metal to shape out the tool. (dimension photo attached)
8. Lock nut is tighten at 80NM, mild steel will bent/damaged hence metal need to be harden, Quenching is process in which metal is heated to red hot and cooled down immediately by immersing it in oil, water, it changed molecular structure of metal making it to withstand heavy loads. I Approached to local blacksmith for quenching process, tool was heated to red hot and immersed in water. Beyond this you won’t be able to do filing job as metal is harden.
9. loosen the lock nut, remove adjuster nut, remove steering stem. Top race cone set grease is observed, bottom race cone set is dry but no abnormalities were observed. Re-greased top/bottom cone set refitted again.
10. MANUAL SAYS TO TIGHT ADJUSTER NUT TO 45NM AND LOOSEN TO ½ BUT DOING SO WOULD MAKE STEERING EXTREMEMLY HARD. FIT BOTH SUSPENSION TO ATLEAST HAVE PRELOAD ON BEARING. ONLY SNUG THE ADJUSTER NUT OR KEEP IT LOOSE A LITTLE BIT, TIGHTEN LOCK NUT TO 80NM CHECK 10-15 TIMES MOVEMENT OF STTERING IT SHOULD BE SMOOTH (STEERING DAMPER REMOVED) AND SHOULD NOT PLAY.
11. Refitted handle bar holder, check steering movement. Refit all components back in reverse order.
