Transmission ‘clunk’ resolution.

Ok, there is no commentary so I’m none the wiser.. Forgive my ignorance but what is achieved by this mod?
 
On the gen 1 the back torque limiter severely limited the ability to modulate the clutch on hard launches. The popular and cheap fix for this was to weld it. I assume it's the same for the gen 2.
 
On the gen 1 the back torque limiter severely limited the ability to modulate the clutch on hard launches. The popular and cheap fix for this was to weld it. I assume it's the same for the gen 2.
Ahh, thank you Mr.Brown.
First thing that occurs to me is that it would need to be done by a coded welder. If the welds failed debris would at the very least end up amongst the clutch plates - nowhere else to go really. That could get messy..
The other thing I pondered was balance. Any material (weld) added to that spinning assembly would need to be perfectly balanced or vibration and wear would surely result?
If someone is machining a high quality one piece replacement I would be more drawn to the idea I think.
Or am I over thinking it?
Can anyone speak from experience on this one?
 
Few people make a single piece hub. Couple others make a ring that makes it function as one solid piece. People weld them all the time with no issues but I would take it to a pro to weld up.

https://www.mpsracing.com/products/MPS/clutchmods.asp

https://store.schnitzracing.com/bro...MI_tnBzOuX3gIVR4ezCh2uFgj5EAQYAyABEgJfGPD_BwE
Interesting links, thanks Mathew.
I’d still be interested to hear from those who have experimented with clutch mods in general..
 
Interesting links, thanks Mathew.
I’d still be interested to hear from those who have experimented with clutch mods in general..
Hi. I will be using the RI out put shaft support plate with the MTC Gen 2 lock up clutch and the RCC quick change clutch cover and Track king clutch kit.
 
I used a welded clutch mod for years before switching to a multi stage lockup. Many hard drag strip launches with no issues. You're correct in stating that if it broke the pieces would end up in the clutch, but I've never heard of one failing. For street riding, even spirited street riding, I'd leave the stock one in place. It's designed to prevent the rear wheel from locking up on a downshift which is far more likely than the need to slip the clutch on a full throttle launch.
 
I used a welded clutch mod for years before switching to a multi stage lockup. Many hard drag strip launches with no issues. You're correct in stating that if it broke the pieces would end up in the clutch, but I've never heard of one failing. For street riding, even spirited street riding, I'd leave the stock one in place. It's designed to prevent the rear wheel from locking up on a downshift which is far more likely than the need to slip the clutch on a full throttle launch.
I was trying to work out what the back torque eliminator was designed to achieve - I hadn’t got far tbh so thanks for that .
 
I was trying to work out what the back torque eliminator was designed to achieve - I hadn’t got far tbh so thanks for that .
Hi Tomo. Yes the bike will be used as a street ridden LSR, drag bike. If I spend over 80K on it and can not take my girl on I will be shot. [ girl friend is my avatar.] Bibe is fully built with help from Frank at Powerhouse DME and Pro Bolt and Harrys machined parts,Robinsons Transmissions.
 
I'm running a welded hub. $30 to weld vs $300 for a 1 piece hub. My turbo makes enough torque to activate the stock back torque limiter during acceleration. I've done track days with the turbo and haven't had issues with locking the back tire on downshifts. It just takes practice.
 
I'm running a welded hub. $30 to weld vs $300 for a 1 piece hub. My turbo makes enough torque to activate the stock back torque limiter during acceleration. I've done track days with the turbo and haven't had issues with locking the back tire on downshifts. It just takes practice.

What do you mean activate the stock back torque limiter.... what happens? What does it feel like?
 
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