My bike have a Tricky Leak

[mabupa]

I ended up getting the seals from a local shop called Buddies Bikes.... Until today i have not heard a word from Suzuki but the sales person there and me ended up having words for each other about there bad service and i lost my temper a bit and yeah now my doors are closed there. I may not be their customer anymore.

I don’t think very many of use have good things to say about the local Suzuki dealers. I gave up on them and now order online and use partzilla a lot. At least I don’t have to talk to unprofessional clowns that don’t have a clue what customer services means.

 

[David Offor]

I like what you did.... I just screen shot it and send it to my freind who is helping me with all this-perhaps we could do the same.... :-)

But if not, the rod is the next best option before removing the engin.... We have measure that size real carefully.... It will basically me made with 3 size. Normal size at beginning and ending points going into the casing and into the clutch bearing thingy so it wont get stuck and 0.2mm thicker ( at only the seal part with the distance it moves forward and backwards....

I’ll see if I can find my photos I took, I’ll post them if I find them .

 

[ali123]

Thanks David!
I had that issue October last year. Was out on a day trip about 250km away to the west. On my way back about 130km away from home i noticed my clutch not taking properly and when we reached the next town the clutch was gone! Luckily i knew someone there and called them to bring me some tools (Forgot my tool kit at home) So there, at a service station i stripped the bike and bleeded the clutch-lol. Luckily it was a slow leak so i made it home after that and on top of that Suzuki here could not help me with the seal so it took them 2 months to get one here. So once a week i topped up that brakefluid.

Each 10-15000km i bleed out my brakes and clutch and each 20 000km i flush the radiator.

Anyway to give an update on the oil seals-I cant get hold of the guy in SA to get them seals imported. So i contacted our local Suzuki Agent and they have no clue what i am talking about! So i must build up some patience and hope and then go to them and hopefully get the seals ordered.

To give you an idea on how Suzuki is here.....
First time i went there and asked them to show me a variety of tyres they stock for my Gen2 Hayabusa- they went to the store and brought me a Motorcross nobby tyre...
Again after that when i phoned for sprockets and chain-again for the Gen2 Hayabusa they asked me what it is? I replied what do you mean and they asked me is it a Kawazaki/Triumph/Suzuki/Aprilia/Honda/Yamaha....

So about an hour ago i phoned.... They would have called me back in 10 minutes time, so i will call again at 14:00 and if they cant answer me i will be paying there shop a visit and let them understand AGAIN how dumb and useless they are...... :-)

on my 2002 I NEVER flushed the radiator/bleed anything.... I changed the oil every thousand miles or so and swapped plugs once. that was it.... maybe a chain and sprockets... and brakes.... u guys are crazy changing brake fluid.. exposing systems to air...... if it aint broke.. try not to fix things... u end up with issues.

 

[Tian]

I’ll see if I can find my photos I took, I’ll post them if I find them .

That would help alot! Thanks bro!

 

[Tian]

on my 2002 I NEVER flushed the radiator/bleed anything.... I changed the oil every thousand miles or so and swapped plugs once. that was it.... maybe a chain and sprockets... and brakes.... u guys are crazy changing brake fluid.. exposing systems to air...... if it aint broke.. try not to fix things... u end up with issues.

I see your point bro... But let me explain what pointed me in that direction... the fluids appeared to be dirty especially in the clutch it was sludgy with like a slimeish look. Which is what scared me cause i was scared it might damage the little cylinders. So i thought to change that every couple of thousands of kilometers to prevent it from becoming sludgy or dirty again.

Got the bike as a 3rd owner on 23/24000km on odo. Guy who owned it before me had it for 4 years and got it on 20 000 (4000km in 4 years) and the bike stood outside in the backyard on sand under a tree. We even found ant nests inside the fairings when we serviced it! So maybe that long stand in that BS conditions could also have played a part in that dirty fluids etc.

So maybe i will then just inspect it carefully every couple of thousands of kilometers and only change if starting to appear dirty and in bad condition. Did not thought doing that can cause issues :-)

 

[David Offor]

That would help alot! Thanks bro!

Found them.
After grinding down the new seal, I put the sealant in, then the modified seal, reversed and then the rubber spacer (forgot to mention this, in my original comment), followed by the internal circlip.
Note-: with the seal out, you can see the hole size, is close to that of the pushrod, so, you don’t have a lot of room, for a thicker rod (gigity).

 

[ali123]

I see your point bro... But let me explain what pointed me in that direction... the fluids appeared to be dirty especially in the clutch it was sludgy with like a slimeish look. Which is what scared me cause i was scared it might damage the little cylinders. So i thought to change that every couple of thousands of kilometers to prevent it from becoming sludgy or dirty again.

Got the bike as a 3rd owner on 23/24000km on odo. Guy who owned it before me had it for 4 years and got it on 20 000 (4000km in 4 years) and the bike stood outside in the backyard on sand under a tree. We even found ant nests inside the fairings when we serviced it! So maybe that long stand in that BS conditions could also have played a part in that dirty fluids etc.

So maybe i will then just inspect it carefully every couple of thousands of kilometers and only change if starting to appear dirty and in bad condition. Did not thought doing that can cause issues :-)

I was just pointing out that it is a gorgeous bike... u should be very careful who works on it... and sometimes its tough to find someone u really trust... because when the bike has to be broken down... u KNOW everything has to be correct... all vacuum lines have to be on there securely... spark plugs cant be overtightened/stripped... a lot of things can go wrong in the wrong hands....

 

[ali123]

I see your point bro... But let me explain what pointed me in that direction... the fluids appeared to be dirty especially in the clutch it was sludgy with like a slimeish look. Which is what scared me cause i was scared it might damage the little cylinders. So i thought to change that every couple of thousands of kilometers to prevent it from becoming sludgy or dirty again.

Got the bike as a 3rd owner on 23/24000km on odo. Guy who owned it before me had it for 4 years and got it on 20 000 (4000km in 4 years) and the bike stood outside in the backyard on sand under a tree. We even found ant nests inside the fairings when we serviced it! So maybe that long stand in that BS conditions could also have played a part in that dirty fluids etc.

So maybe i will then just inspect it carefully every couple of thousands of kilometers and only change if starting to appear dirty and in bad condition. Did not thought doing that can cause issues :-)

well... exposure to oxygen by the brake fluid can darken it.... it is a hydraulic fluid... and its extremely hot a lot of times... I think like this... even if the fluid ruined the lines and caused a caliper to stick.... u could THEN rebuild the calipers.... OR UPGRADE... change all lines and get it better than when u got it for a couple hundred bucks if u shopped around.

 

[ali123]

I would treat the bike gently/change the oil... and only fix stuff that broke... then u have an excuse to upgrade... jk

 

[Tian]

Found them.
After grinding down the new seal, I put the sealant in, then the modified seal, reversed and then the rubber spacer (forgot to mention this, in my original comment), followed by the internal circlip.
Note-: with the seal out, you can see the hole size, is close to that of the pushrod, so, you don’t have a lot of room, for a thicker rod (gigity).

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Thank you!!! I will see if we can also follow your steps here....
I will talk to the guy helping me and then we will take it from there-in a way this partly thicker rot is scaring me-cause if that damn engineering guy dont get this done perfectly it might cause me some more damage.....

 

[Tian]

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I was just pointing out that it is a gorgeous bike... u should be very careful who works on it... and sometimes its tough to find someone u really trust... because when the bike has to be broken down... u KNOW everything has to be correct... all vacuum lines have to be on there securely... spark plugs cant be overtightened/stripped... a lot of things can go wrong in the wrong hands....

Thats the biggest problem.... the only guy i know who never screwed up a bike and knowed his stuff from a-z on a bike changed location and job line and do not work bikes anymore. So my freind and i are doing it. His a car mechanic but thats way different than on bikes. So we had a couple of screw ups here and there but luckily nothing majors! But yeah, rather we work it our selfs and know where we did what than giving it to some one who most probaly will not be knowing what his doing and then if something gets screwed up we wont know where what has been done and then everything is a mess.

 

[David Offor]

Splitting crankcases, is a world apart from getting vacuum hoses wrong.
I’d strongly recommend NOT splitting the crankcases, if you have no major gearbox or engine problems, for someone whose never done it before unsupervised, you will be tempting a very expensive problem, for the sake of a £2 seal, that is possible to modify and retain, without leakage.

 

[Tian]

Splitting crankcases, is a world apart from getting vacuum hoses wrong.
I’d strongly recommend NOT splitting the crankcases, if you have no major gearbox or engine problems, for someone whose never done it before unsupervised, you will be tempting a very expensive problem, for the sake of a £2 seal, that is possible to modify and retain, without leakage.

I agree.... wojld have loved to do it and then do my top with it too.... but my bike will never be the same again. Probaly wont ever start up again! Lol

 

[ali123]

Found them.
After grinding down the new seal, I put the sealant in, then the modified seal, reversed and then the rubber spacer (forgot to mention this, in my original comment), followed by the internal circlip.
Note-: with the seal out, you can see the hole size, is close to that of the pushrod, so, you don’t have a lot of room, for a thicker rod (gigity).

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this looks like a great answer to ure problem... lucky we have this site... if u have to remove the motor and split cases... it would cost quite a bit... and if u try it yourself... I dunno man... this fix worked for him.... home run here,.

 

[Tian]

this looks like a great answer to ure problem... lucky we have this site... if u have to remove the motor and split cases... it would cost quite a bit... and if u try it yourself... I dunno man... this fix worked for him.... home run here,.

I agree bro! The way he did it brought my hopes up very much! So next week am gonna get oil, filter, new coolant for radiator (fitting a new radiator mine have a leak and i dont believe in fixing it) wanna fit better lights aswel and also then bring an end to this oil leak.

 

[Tian]

Guys, i heard behind the water pump is an ORing that also can leak oil and i did not know about it so gonna check that out aswel....
Would'nt it be awesome if that one is leaking causing the oil to run down to that seal making it appear that, that seal is leaking?! Lol don't know if thats even possible that one seal can make another seal appear to leak....

 

[David Offor]

Thank you!!! I will see if we can also follow your steps here....
I will talk to the guy helping me and then we will take it from there-in a way this partly thicker rot is scaring me-cause if that damn engineering guy dont get this done perfectly it might cause me some more damage.....

All you need, is a good lathe, with good cutting tools and a good quality piece of steel rod.
I’d also consider, measuring the amount of rod travel you have, when pulling in the clutch lever because it might be possible to turn down the rod, to the same thickness, as your original rod and leave the part, that protrudes outside of the seal, slightly thicker but the clutch rod travel might prevent this idea from working.

 

[Tian]

All you need, is a good lathe, with good cutting tools and a good quality piece of steel rod.
I’d also consider, measuring the amount of rod travel you have, when pulling in the clutch lever because it might be possible to turn down the rod, to the same thickness, as your original rod and leave the part, that protrudes outside of the seal, slightly thicker but the clutch rod travel might prevent this idea from working.

The measurements and everything have been done.... BUT it appears it is quite a distance the rod is moving in and out of the engin. We decided against the modified rod because we do not know the diameter of which is traveling inside the engin and we are scared that it might be even if its a thousand of a milimeter to thick that it could cause the rod to damage or get stuck inside the engin.

 

[Tian]

So i showed the guy helping me your photos and explanations and he is following.... We will be doing it your way!

But the cutting of the new seal, its not that much smaller it needs to be cutted, yes?

 

[David Offor]

The new seal has a raised edge, this needs to be ground down on a bench grinder, it’s hardened steel, I found the easiest way, was to grind it (watch your fingers, it gets hot), you only need to take off the raised edge.
I found it a real pain, to drag the old seal out of the recess, between the crankcasses but once I had damaged my old seal, I had no option but to continue, it was then that I opened the workshop manual and saw Suzuki’s terrible design.
If you understand what I did, you shouldn’t have any problem getting a good result.