Project "Serenity" the 500+HP Streetbike Build.

No one can do the inside properly, the problem lays in the prep, you can easily spray the inside of a lot of exhaust parts, but if the surface finish is not prepped properly before applying the ceramic coating it will flake off.

Richard
It's a worthless reply. In 1978 some rattle can stuff had just come out and it was suppose to keep the tubes from turning blue. I don't remember the product and I don't know if it worked because I had a monument guy sand blast the chrome off my Vance & Hines 4 in 1. I rattle canned the inside and rattle canned the outside with some high temp flatblack rattle can and never looked back.

Do you think electrostatic spray painting would make it a much better job, prep shouldn't be that big an issue with the materials available.

not arguing, just throwing some stuff out there for thought
 
Any ceramic coatings we have used recommend they should not be applied thicker then .0015, here is a direct quote from a manufacturer.
"The coatings are thickness sensitive. Generally .0015" is the maximum thickness recommended. Putting any coating on too thick can cause the coating to crack, flake or bubble up."
So when trying to spray the inside of an exhaust system, to an even coating of .0015" would be pretty tough, and it will flake and come off in the spots where is went on heavier.
I know the stuff you are talking about, I think it was originally made for Harley pipes, and the material itself was not protecting the pipe, the theory behind that stuff was that it burnt up inside the exhaust, turned to carbon, and the carbon insulated the pipe.

Richard
 
I have had car headers coated by jet hot...after the initial fee they recoat them for free...+ shipping. I do agree that it would be a nightmare trying to get a specific film build even inside the tubes...be it powder or a liquid bath. As far as the prep it seems a chem strip / putting them in a vibratory bath with media the surface would be free of contaminants...then a pre treat / other bs...either way it is better than no coating, it looks good, and controls the heat
 
Well here's another thought from an idiot, lots of design and engineering go into these components. The outside, no biggie, but changing the inside may impact performance by making the inner diameter smaller. Thoughts.
 
I've been waiting on a few small things before I post up the kit on the bike. But I laid the bike harness in and hooked it up, and started on our power block system. This is our version 3 set up that now uses all oem connectors in the places where you would normally have to cut the factory harness.

As always we use sxl grade wire, with tyco relays for the most longevity, and conductivity. These pics are just the start, and y'all will see how it all comes together in the end.

The tap for the hi-lo beams since the bike will have hids running off relays.
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Tap for the fuel pump
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Power panel on the rear of the bike.
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More to come shortly!
 
wow!!! lookn great Rob. impressive! what did u get anodized the plenum? wat was the damage for that? I might use who u use and jus ship it out when the time comes. they did a stellar job so why screw around with someone else!
 
wow!!! lookn great Rob. impressive! what did u get anodized the plenum? wat was the damage for that? I might use who u use and jus ship it out when the time comes. they did a stellar job so why screw around with someone else!

Brett- the ceramic coating is done in house at RCC. The anodizing is sent out by Rcc to get done. I'm pretty sure the anodizing gets done then the core gets welded in. I do know that when it comes to the lids they get cut and then shipped out for anodizing. When they come back they get put back in the cnc machine where they cut the logo in, and then finally remove the mounting tabs that they use to hold it in the machine.

It's because of all that that it took so long for this kit to ship. But it's well worth the wait.

Gary- think all that kinda answered your question from your pm as well.
 
Brett- the ceramic coating is done in house at RCC. The anodizing is sent out by Rcc to get done. I'm pretty sure the anodizing gets done then the core gets welded in. I do know that when it comes to the lids they get cut and then shipped out for anodizing. When they come back they get put back in the cnc machine where they cut the logo in, and then finally remove the mounting tabs that they use to hold it in the machine.

It's because of all that that it took so long for this kit to ship. But it's well worth the wait.

Gary- think all that kinda answered your question from your pm as well.
copy that. thanx
 
Need to pull the camera out and get some detailed pics of the turbo set up, but I'll toss these up for now.

The forks came back from mcintosh, so we were able to get it sitting on it's wheels. Waiting on a bunch of small stuff one being a new rear axle, and the new wheels. But you can get an ideal how low she will be. Also got the main harness just about ran, so the next step is to make all the connections.
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Few camera phone updates!

I had the fuel feed and turbo oil drain welded in to ensure extra safety, and keep leak free.
D4AE71EE-72D2-47A8-8D7D-2B637C066E40.jpg

907DD409-6901-4DF4-BFC5-3E7CEAF111B1.jpg

Over the last 2 weeks have been pretty much nothing but wiring. It's just about done, just a few mod connections then I'll install the alarm system.
B1AF5DCE-6BCD-40D7-9D28-9FEE9D042A38.jpg

81ED6380-16DB-4F6D-A600-42F254C3DCCA.jpg

E845C66F-8FFA-477B-AE4E-C53C6A54E2E6.jpg

5175E0E3-29DC-42D4-84B1-FA3FB591BBFF.jpg

Here's where the front rack shines. Here's the hid ballist mounted.
A528E7CD-347F-42A3-8807-96EF5C1B62E4.jpg

And here's the factory fuse box, harness, with our harness run along it.
883F0091-0270-4283-8406-881B6EC29D70.jpg

And lastly the fuel pump bracket and pump in it's new relocation.
BBFCDB82-169A-45B7-8B93-F964CD3CC270.jpg

If all the fuel system parts come in I would think it should be able to get started next week sometime.
 
Few camera phone updates!

I had the fuel feed and turbo oil drain welded in to ensure extra safety, and keep leak free.
D4AE71EE-72D2-47A8-8D7D-2B637C066E40.jpg

907DD409-6901-4DF4-BFC5-3E7CEAF111B1.jpg

Over the last 2 weeks have been pretty much nothing but wiring. It's just about done, just a few mod connections then I'll install the alarm system.
B1AF5DCE-6BCD-40D7-9D28-9FEE9D042A38.jpg

81ED6380-16DB-4F6D-A600-42F254C3DCCA.jpg

E845C66F-8FFA-477B-AE4E-C53C6A54E2E6.jpg

5175E0E3-29DC-42D4-84B1-FA3FB591BBFF.jpg

Here's where the front rack shines. Here's the hid ballist mounted.
A528E7CD-347F-42A3-8807-96EF5C1B62E4.jpg

And here's the factory fuse box, harness, with our harness run along it.
883F0091-0270-4283-8406-881B6EC29D70.jpg

And lastly the fuel pump bracket and pump in it's new relocation.
BBFCDB82-169A-45B7-8B93-F964CD3CC270.jpg

If all the fuel system parts come in I would think it should be able to get started next week sometime.
 
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