need 24v kit help

My bike is at Goldenchilds getting some work and its about 150 miles away. If you PM icemansid he can walk you through it . He helped me with it. He knows his stuff whe it comes to electrical.
 
remove the cable that goes from the starter solenoid to the starter - disregard but keep the black boot
the thin red wire goes to the starter solenoid. The thin black goes to primary battery ground
2 red wires marked battery 1 goes to primary battery +
1 black wire marked battery 1 goes to primary battery -
starter to go starter pole, cover using black boot
2 remaining wires go to the secondary battery - wherever plan on putting it, red to +, black to -
 
This is all I could find but That was before I got the upgrade piece that keeps the batteries from Possibly going dead. the starter poole with the black boot on it is the thing I was talking about.
 
OK since the wire going to the euro light plug is too small I have to put it in a different place. this is the inside of the left-hand wire bundle on the outside of the left side of the frame. inside there were three red wires to play i red wires and one that has brown marks on it. I know that these are power wires which one should I tap into. Plain red, not play I red as stated above. I'm on my phone and it won't let me erase it

20140220_160634.jpg
 
Why dont you pull the free service manual and check out the drawings. It's not complex. I believe there's tables that show key positions also. Is this wire just triggering something on your 24V system or is it charging a battery ? What ?

The euro light wire John put you on should work for trigger duty.

Or contact the vendor. I'm pretty sure they can tell you exactly what you need to do.

I don't have the Gen I manuals or I would help.
 
I'm looking at the manuals right now and it does tell you specific things EXCEPT why there are two red wires and one red wire with brown spots. Also, I contacted Guy at Tiger Racing and he is researching it as well. Step 7 in their install guide is extremely vague and I just don't want to cut the wrong wire. As for the trigger wire from the euro light, the euro light plug is 22 gauge wire and the lead wire from the 24v kit is 14 gauge. If it were closer, I wouldn't have a problem with that but its pretty far off for splicing
 
Black with a white tracer coming from the ignition switch goes to the headlights, blinkers and seems to be the power wire for a LOT of different things... inputs?
 
Orange with a white tracer comes off the Engine Stop Switch........... Should I go there?
 
So I spliced into the O/W that goes from the "on" portion of the engine stop switch to the ECU. This should allow both batteries to charge with the master switch in the Closed position and only allow the system to USE the secondary battery when the engine stop switch is in the ON position. This is the same circuit that allows the fuel pump to energize. I hope all this helps someone else in the future
 
What color is the wire from Tiger that you are hooking up?

Post a pic please, it should be clear in the instruction, from Tiger!
 
This is not the Kit that Guy used to sell, it is different.
This kit is NOT automatic like mine, but with that said, the small guage wire just needs a switched trigger, for on and off.
I am familiar with the relays that are included with this MPS kit, the trigger is just a light duty trigger, maybe only 500 milli amps.
So with that said any switched 12 volt will do!
 
The one I bought was directly from Tiger. These instructions were just ones I found online but they are identical to the ones supplied by Tiger Racing. I went ahead and spliced to the orange with white tracer on the left hand side bundle. This is the 8 amp battery kit if that helps any. But this is the one directly from Tiger Racing: Motorcycle Performance Parts, Sport Bike
 
Guy does not offer the kit i have any more, his supplier is gone for it!
Mine has no toggle switch, and is truely automatic!
 
The toggle switch is only there so that if the secondary battery fails, you flip the switch and can stay directly if the original battery. Is an emergency feature. Otherwise, completely auto
 
The toggle switch is only there so that if the secondary battery fails, you flip the switch and can stay directly if the original battery. Is an emergency feature. Otherwise, completely auto
I'm confused by this. Isn't the point of this to have the 24v at start but then it's all 12v. If the secondary goes out doesn't that mean it's not charging while it's running?
 
From the instructions, it is a 24v start and the relays kick it off except to charge the 2nd batt. It comes with two relays. The switch is just a backup incase the 2nd batt dies or something so you can still 12v start your bike
 
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