Tobin seat relieves knee fatigue!

Hello there! well I personally dont have them but if youll look above and oneilldn's post he has some helibars and this raises the handle bars up a lil bit and will probably make your ride less stressful on your wrists
 
You mean like this???

seat, Buell pegs, and Heli Bars are probably the best investment I have made.... I can go for hours now.....:laugh:

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I still don't see how those pegs are more comfortable!... I am building real higway pegs tonight. I want yo stretch my legs man.

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I've wanted to do that. But don't the Buell pegs screw up your position for the rear brake and the shifter? I remember reading that you needed to use longer cables, that the stockers would seem long enough, but they really aren't when the fork extends.
 
Your new seat looks fantastic - as does the rest of your bike! :thumbsup:

I also recommend the Buell peg mod and do buy them from the oRg member who sells them. I bought just the pegs from a Harley dealer, had to machine dowels for the pivot pin, had to machine the pegs themselves to fit, then polish up the cutting. It all took me about 3+ hours and I bet they didn't come out as nice the kit you can buy. So yes, I saved $50, but blew an entire afternoon on a day that would have been better spent riding!
 
I've wanted to do that. But don't the Buell pegs screw up your position for the rear brake and the shifter? Also, I remember that you needed longer cables for the heli bars. They would seem fine until the front started to rise and the cables would go too taunt.

Is any of this true:confused2:
 
I've wanted to do that. But don't the Buell pegs screw up your position for the rear brake and the shifter? Also, I remember that you needed longer cables for the heli bars. They would seem fine until the front started to rise and the cables would go too taunt.

Is any of this true:confused2:

floydv, the buell pegs do not screw up your shifter ,but rather a small adjustment to your liking. the only downer that i have a problem with is, when you ride hard in the twisties keep your heels tucked back to avoid your toes touching.

i can only speak about spacers not the heli bars so here it goes. you do not need longer lines for the clutch and front brake if you raise them 3/4inch like i did on my gen 1. turning full left/right standing still will have your knuckles touching the windscreen ,but it did not hinder my riding at all. these 2 mods and the tobin seat made the "bus" one he!! of a comfortable bike to say the least.
 
How does that added one inch make you feel soooo much better? i just dont see it.

I have heli bars, buell pegs and a tobin. It makes a night and day difference.
Last summer made a 4k ride at 600+ miles a day with no problems. Next month riding to the Stampede and the Black Hills.
If you ride any distance at all the mods are worth it. If you trailer or ride around home, probably not worth it, unless you feel uncomfortable on short rides.

Ya gotta trust the members... :thumbsup:
 
seat looks good!! I hope you do keep it covered or in the garage... sun will fade it pretty quickly..
 
floydv, the buell pegs do not screw up your shifter ,but rather a small adjustment to your liking. the only downer that i have a problem with is, when you ride hard in the twisties keep your heels tucked back to avoid your toes touching.

i can only speak about spacers not the heli bars so here it goes. you do not need longer lines for the clutch and front brake if you raise them 3/4inch like i did on my gen 1. turning full left/right standing still will have your knuckles touching the windscreen ,but it did not hinder my riding at all. these 2 mods and the tobin seat made the "bus" one he!! of a comfortable bike to say the least.
hmm if your toes are touching, you have some bigger issues :) need to get your feet located correctly on the pegs (balls of your feet)

I have watched some pretty spirited riding on "buell" pegs and you gotta have the peg near the arch of your foot to get toes down.. hate to see you hook a toe or break a foot...

Helibars and 3/4 spacers will work on a Gen1 bike.. You will need to re-route the fast idle cable to between the bolts on the tank hold down however... the rest is a piece of cake...

IF you have Galfer brake lines... they need to be AT LEAST +1" or you will have some bigger problems when the front tire leaves the ground..
 
floydv, the buell pegs do not screw up your shifter ,but rather a small adjustment to your liking. the only downer that i have a problem with is, when you ride hard in the twisties keep your heels tucked back to avoid your toes touching.

i can only speak about spacers not the heli bars so here it goes. you do not need longer lines for the clutch and front brake if you raise them 3/4inch like i did on my gen 1. turning full left/right standing still will have your knuckles touching the windscreen ,but it did not hinder my riding at all. these 2 mods and the tobin seat made the "bus" one he!! of a comfortable bike to say the least.

I would do the spacers at 3/4 inch. I wouldn't be willing to do all the work that a taller spacer would require with the cables. Not understanding "keep the heels tucked back," to avoid touching what, the ground?
 
toe touch, hook, broken foot, also if touching the shifter, you could be riding on a shift fork.. (rider usually ends up with toe "under" the shifter..)/ and doing it right... both photos are at the exact same spot on the dragon...

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toe touch, hook, broken foot, also if touching the shifter, you could be riding on a shift fork.. (rider usually ends up with toe "under" the shifter..)/ and doing it right... both photos are at the exact same spot on the dragon...
that is exactly how i was trying to describe my positioning. i have a size 13 shoe and when i am riding relaxed my foot is positioned as the photo shows. when i ride aggressive, i have to remind myself to draw my feet back to the "balls" instead of the "arch" which mr. bogus stated would be a serious no, no.
the point is, i have to be more aware with the buells which are closer to the ground over stock pegs.
 
that is exactly how i was trying to describe my positioning. i have a size 13 shoe and when i am riding relaxed my foot is positioned as the photo shows. when i ride aggressive, i have to remind myself to draw my feet back to the "balls" instead of the "arch" which mr. bogus stated would be a serious no, no.
the point is, i have to be more aware with the buells which are closer to the ground over stock pegs.

I wouldn't want to have to pay that much attention. I ride with my boot heel hooked on the back of the peg, and my toes under the shifter. I let my right foot angle out to keep it off the rear brake. It's hard to imagine an inch making that much difference, but I believe you. I wear a size 14 too.
 
drug a foot once, riding a v rod. just my heel, but it scared the sheet out of me. i like how the first pic is some ass in reebok sneakers on a stock busa, and the rider with proper foot position has actual hardside riding boots on, and what looks to be a modified (at least stickered up) busa.
 
still trying to figure out how the Tobin helps the knees... it moves your butt closer to the pegs right? so that would equate to a tighter angle on the knees...
 
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