Turbo blew-up HELP!!!

[sactownbusa]

Not really, just the fuel pressure or something blew out. I dont know.


I had my ghetto kit installed and ran it first time tonight. Im running 7psi and 11psi on a dual stage boost (turbo xs). Fuel pressure is set at 40-50psi I have a PC2 set up with the standard motorhead 7psi map. I only ran it on 7psi, i think (no lable on my toggle switch).

Once I hit the road I rolled on the throttle 50%, felt the boost kick in and then the fuel pressure dropped of 0psi, the FI light whent on and now the bike will not start. Experts please help...

Second question: What kind of system do I need to properly run a dual stage boost controler? Is the PC2 I currently have installed ok until I get something better?

 

[Rhythm]

Contact Dennis (Motorhead) !

 

[MET]

Dennis will be able to help on his kit.

themotorhead@aol.com

Here are some starting points.

1.  Too much Boost.  I think the kit is made for 7psi with real good HP.

2.  Did you do motor work?  If not do not set your boost at 11psi.

3.  Do you have stock injectors??

4.  What regulator comes with the kit??

5.  Unplug your ground on the batter, re-connect after a minute.  If bikes starts let it run idle for about 5 minutes.  This will re-set your ECU.  So you can start over.  If you are setting for 11 you will go over 11 with spikes and back down.  This is OK but you need to know where you spike and come back down to.

Check your FI call out, sounds like fuel pump??  Under Tech there is a call out sheet.

ABOVE all else talkk ot e-mail Dennis it is his kit.  HE WILL HELP

THEMOTORHEAD

Posted: Sun Aug 29, 2004 7:42 pm Post subject:

"FUSE
AND DO NOT RUN 11 PSI ON THAT MAP OR IT WILL MELT"



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[5280Busa]

Make sure the FMU is connected properly...the vacuum should be connected to the bottom nipple on the FMU...not the top one with that has the adjuster screw. Use the diagram below to check your layout.

Next, make sure all vacuum hoses and fuel lines are not kinked and that the power terminals to the fuel pump didn't get disconnected or cut.

Finally, you should be using the new map for the PCII called Ghetto 45#

 

[5280Busa]

Dennis will be able to help on his kit.

themotorhead@aol.com

Here are some starting points.

1.  Too much Boost.  I think the kit is made for 7psi with real good HP.

2.  Did you do motor work?  If not do not set your boost at 11psi.

3.  Do you have stock injectors??

4.  What regulator comes with the kit??

5.  Unplug your ground on the batter, re-connect after a minute.  If bikes starts let it run idle for about 5 minutes.  This will re-set your ECU.  So you can start over.  If you are setting for 11 you will go over 11 with spikes and back down.  This is OK but you need to know where you spike and come back down to.

Check your FI call out, sounds like fuel pump??  Under Tech there is a call out sheet.

ABOVE all else talkk ot e-mail Dennis it is his kit.  HE WILL HELP

THEMOTORHEAD

Posted: Sun Aug 29, 2004 7:42 pm    Post subject:    

"FUSE
AND DO NOT RUN 11 PSI ON THAT MAP OR IT WILL MELT"

Ninja,

What happened to the suzukihayabusa.org website..I get a "not found error"

Do you have a link to the new website?

-S

 

[HIONBOOST]

The only thing I can tell you is the std computer will not sense boost & in most cases a motor will fu.k up because the bike is not tuned right ,bad quality fuel
,no intercooler or to much boost.
In Australia all the turbo kits we do have a intercooler & a computer that you can tune UNDER BOOST.The only turbo kits that should not have a intercooler is a drag bike with good fuel like ELF124 or C16 ect.
The reason your F1 light came on is because your map sensor
sense to much boost & this will change with different air temps.
Just putting a T on the map sensor is just a cover up for not doing the job right the first time.The first kit I did has over 180000kms & is still going 11psi boost std bike even the fuel pump & reg is std but our base fuel is 98 ron.
This bike also runs at street meets with good fuel & runs 8.8@169 all day.YOU PAY FOR WHAT YOU GET.
CHEAP KITS ARE CHEAP FOR A REASON..

 

[MET]

The only thing I can tell you is the std computer will not sense boost & in most cases a motor will fu.k up because the bike is not tuned right ,bad quality fuel
,no intercooler or to much boost.
In Australia  all the turbo kits we do have a intercooler & a computer that you can tune UNDER BOOST.The only turbo kits that should not have a intercooler is a drag bike with good fuel like ELF124 or C16 ect.
The reason your F1 light came on is because your map sensor
sense to much boost & this will change with different air temps.
Just putting a T on the map sensor is just a cover up for not doing the job right the first time.The first kit I did has over 180000kms & is still going 11psi boost std bike even the fuel pump & reg is std but our base fuel is 98 ron.
This bike also runs at street meets with good fuel & runs 8.8@169 all day.YOU PAY FOR WHAT YOU GET.
CHEAP KITS ARE CHEAP FOR A REASON..

I would agree with most of what you said. You can get excellent results with water injection also. Pushing the boost up you should have both if you can get it. Water should be used more as a precaution then as a way to increase the boost. There are some great inexpensive kits out thee that will give you what you need with the proper precautions.

 

[Frank Adams]

The reason your F1 light came on is because your map sensor
sense to much boost & this will change with different air temps.

Not true......

A "T" with check valves are put into place to remove boost back pressure to the map sensor. This mod is needed on ALL systems on the market today except the ones(velo stage2 race, nlr genX) that are equipped with a stand alone ignition system.

If you don't have the check valves in the map sensor line, you get the F1 light to come on every time your bike reaches boost.

 

[HIONBOOST]

Yes you can get excellent results with water injection but as a shop owner I cant take the risk.
One day the customer will forget to fill the water tank up & then BANG.
As you know it takes a long time to get a good name but you can get a bad name over night.

 

[HIONBOOST]

Frank I think all people that build turbo kits know this.
As you know the more boost the more T,s and one way valves
you have to add to stop F1 light from coming on.

 

[MET]

Yes you can get excellent results with water injection but as a shop owner I cant take the risk.
One day the customer will forget to fill the water tank up & then BANG.
As you know it takes a long time to get a good name but you can get a bad name over night.

Good point........ You can set up the water with an LED though (idiot light). Even with an intercooler a rookie can melt it pretty quick. I agree with your concern though, I wish more would look at it that way instead of just tossing rookies into the wind.

 

[HIONBOOST]

It's good to talk to someone that understands my concern.
All these turbo blow ups are giving good turbo kit makers a bad name..

 

[C_Henry]

What I get out of all this (az a Rookie) is turbo kits are  too expensive for me. If your gonna do a turbo system that will last, you have to spend tha big bucks for tuning,for the install, and the xtra's that most cheaper kits don't come with.
Funny though, when you read about most turbo kits that are supposed to be affordable, they offer all the extras (that you really NEED) as just that, add ons. Where's the note: if you want it to last and be reliable you need all these extras.
Sounds to me their trying to get kits out any way they can. If you know someone needs the water injection or it could be fatal to the motor why not just include it in the (cheap) price ?
I think the true reality of it is Turbo's that are gonna last are not the bargain ones. And all of the manufacters should just come out and say it. Don't try and trick the average weekend racer into thinking he can get a name brand turbo system, and its gonna last without the extras that jack the price way up.
When someone does a mod like this their not getting it to cruise the block. They want power, and not just for a little while. They want their moneys worth. $3 or $4k may not be much to some, but for us weekend racers that don't make the big bucks, or get everything at a sponsored discount price, thats alot of money to put into a bike.
If someone sells a $3k turbo kit, or its the $10 race kit. It should last and be durable to handle what ever we put at it on tha street and tha track. With or, without the extras.



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[MET]

What I get out of all this (az a Rookie) is turbo kits are  too expensive for me. If your gonna do a turbo system that will last, you have to spend tha big bucks for tuning,for the install, and the xtra's that most cheaper kits don't come with.
Funny though, when you read about most turbo kits that are supposed to be affordable, they offer all the extras (that you really NEED) as just that, add ons. Where's the note: if you want it to last and be reliable you need all these extras.
Sounds to me their trying to get kits out any way they can. If you know someone needs the water injection or it could be fatal to the motor why not just include it in the (cheap) price ?
I think the true reality of it is Turbo's that are gonna last are not the bargain ones. And all of the manufacters should just come out and say it. Don't try and trick the average weekend racer into thinking he can get a name brand turbo system, and its gonna last without the extras that jack the price way up.
When someone does a mod like this their not getting it to cruise the block. They want power, and not just for a little while. They want their moneys worth. $3 or $4k may not be much to some, but for us weekend racers that don't make the big bucks, or get everything at a sponsored discount price, thats alot of money to put into a bike.
If someone sells a $3k turbo kit, or its the $10 race kit. It should last and be durable to handle what ever we put at it on tha street and tha track. With or, without the extras.

Good points bt not totally true. What happens on the basic kits is buyes push them beyond how the should run. You can take a Turbo Saab adn turn the boost up 10lbs and cook the motor. What happens a lot is people get caught up the HP dance and keep pushing for ore. Don't get me wrong more is good but t has it's limits on good basic kits. Your hahn kits your Geto (hey I did not pick the name) kits and yur low end Velocity, and othrs will give you long production at 260-280hp. More is good t en you need to have and do more.

 

[C_Henry]

Really glade you feel me on this Ninja. But I'm sure you read about the problems Stunnah has had, and now the geto kit. Myself, I would expect it from a kit named "Geto". But not from a name such as Velocity. And thats what ticks me off, they should have informed stunnah that either he didn't have everthing he needed or, his motor wouldn't last with a turbo. If I go to a Velocity dealer and he tells me I can get a Velocity turbo kit for $3700, thats all i expect to pay. When I get my turbo bike back it shouldn't need anything else to last, or stand up to 1/4mi drag racing. If I need all that other high $ stuff, then I might as well get the stage 2 big $$ kit.
Just feel thats screwed up they don't tell you everthing up front.

 

[HIONBOOST]

That is so true.
When I sell a turbo setup in my shop I do not give the option
of a cheap kit.
I sell them a turbo setup that has all the right gear & if they can't afford it I tell them to save up a bit more cash so it won't cost them more in the future. It’s better to pay more now for a good turbo kit instead of paying for a motor rebuild as well.

 

[Uncle Bob]

the cheaper the kit, the more DIY it is. Don't dive into what you're not familiar with....especially don't try to save a couple pennies on something that is obviously going to blow up stuff if not done correctly.

I know its hard to quickly learn all the in's and out's of such technical stuff just to learn how to bolt something on to a bike, but it greatly increases the longevity and your pleasure when you know everything you can learn about something of this nature BEFORE you blow it up....sometimes you have to learn from it.

IMO, high performance turbo'd anything isn't for the uneducated. You can ship your bike off and pay massive money to get it tuned properly, but if you don't know at least the limitations and side effects of the system, and what to watch out for, you're still going to get frustrated by it.

I know, its unrealistic to expect anyone with a turbo to be a full blown mechanic....but you better have some credit cards handy if you're not

 

[MET]

Do's don'ts, sights, sounds and litations, all well said.  Read as much as you can get a hold of.  You would be surprised on the information you find and you will learn who the so called experts are as well as the true experts.  Most true experts are still learning.



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[Frank Adams]

Really glade you feel me on this Ninja. But I'm sure you read about the problems Stunnah has had, and now the geto kit. Myself, I would expect it from a kit named "Geto". But not from a name such as Velocity. And thats what ticks me off, they should have informed stunnah that either he didn't have everthing he needed or, his motor wouldn't last with a turbo.  If I go to a Velocity dealer and he tells me I can get a Velocity turbo kit for $3700, thats all i expect to pay.  When I get my turbo bike back it shouldn't need anything else to last, or stand up to 1/4mi drag racing. If I need all that other high $ stuff, then I might as well get the stage 2 big $$ kit.
Just feel thats screwed up they don't tell you everthing up front.

Every turbo system has it's limits. The only 1 thing each turbo system has in common is that they're all designed to make horse power. Usually a person will educate them selves on what they don't know before making a big investment. If you think you are going to just bolt a system on and go then be prepared to run into issues.

Know what you are buying, and know what it's performance limits are.

 

[C_Henry]

Frank what are the perfomance limits of the $3700 Velocity turbo kits ?