kingofdacoast
Registered
Yes can deff take diff amount but he wanted to talk like a kid so I fished...
Keep fishing. Thats how you learn.
What a Wet Shot looks like.
- Thread starter Gixx1300R
- Start date
Keep fishing. Thats how you learn.
Look for the wet spots....
ToXSicK RoCKeT
Registered
kingofdacoast
Registered
When a cylinder fills is there anything open? Yes there is, the valves! A leak down test is down at top dead center with the valves CLOSED! If we had valves that are leaking it wouldn't matter when filling the cylinder. It will still take in what it wants. That won't stop it. At max rpm the valves are opening and closing so fast they are damn near not sealing anyway so I ask again, according to you, what would make one cylinder take in more than another.
I had to show my wife 
this hilarious post and how these go no where. 
Low and behold there's a reply from KofC.
Ok, you've got all weekend to look at your books to figure out and explain how you determined your bikes VE is 96%
:handball:
I hope you'll be very clear in determining the Flow based from your pressure reading. FYI since we're talking an NA engine I guess you're going to try and explain it using the manifold absolute pressure sensor since there is no boost sensor.
Since I've already explained to you exactly how to test and derive the answer this shouldn't be to hard for you. After answering all of your numerous questions and playing along in your games no matter how irrelevant your question were to the topic of VE I still answered them. I hope you can show me enough respect by answering my original simple question.
To refresh you on what my question is, I wanted to simply know what method you used to determine your bikes 96% VE.
In plain english, what equipment and/or sensors did you use to record the actual true real world values.
For giggles I look at this thread again on Monday. I'm not going to answer any additional questions or teach you anything more. I simply will check to see if you've come up with a legitimate answer to my question.
this hilarious post and how these go no where. Low and behold there's a reply from KofC. Ok, you've got all weekend to look at your books to figure out and explain how you determined your bikes VE is 96%
:handball:
I hope you'll be very clear in determining the Flow based from your pressure reading. FYI since we're talking an NA engine I guess you're going to try and explain it using the manifold absolute pressure sensor since there is no boost sensor.
Since I've already explained to you exactly how to test and derive the answer this shouldn't be to hard for you. After answering all of your numerous questions and playing along in your games no matter how irrelevant your question were to the topic of VE I still answered them. I hope you can show me enough respect by answering my original simple question.
To refresh you on what my question is, I wanted to simply know what method you used to determine your bikes 96% VE.
In plain english, what equipment and/or sensors did you use to record the actual true real world values.
For giggles I look at this thread again on Monday. I'm not going to answer any additional questions or teach you anything more. I simply will check to see if you've come up with a legitimate answer to my question.
kingofdacoast
Registered
I had to show my wife
Ok, you've got all weekend to look at your books to figure out and explain how you determined your bikes VE is 96%
:handball:
I hope you'll be very clear in determining the Flow based from your pressure reading. FYI since we're talking an NA engine I guess you're going to try and explain it using the manifold absolute pressure sensor since there is no boost sensor.
Since I've already explained to you exactly how to test and derive the answer this shouldn't be to hard for you. After answering all of your numerous questions and playing along in your games no matter how irrelevant your question were to the topic of VE I still answered them. I hope you can show me enough respect by answering my original simple question.
To refresh you on what my question is, I wanted to simply know what method you used to determine your bikes 96% VE.
In plain english, what equipment and/or sensors did you use to record the actual true real world values.
For giggles I look at this thread again on Monday. I'm not going to answer any additional questions or teach you anything more. I simply will check to see if you've come up with a legitimate answer to my question.
I can show you better than I can tell you.
kingofdacoast
Registered
Ok, we started out with a good running engine with a dry shot fogging the airbox. Toxic said that fogging the airbox is too dependant on the cylinder to take in a even amount of nitrous. I asked why and now we end up with a leaking engine with a hole in the piston to explain it. If our engine is running fine and one cylinder can take in more nitrous than the others, why is this? Can anyone explain?
kingofdacoast
Registered
I figured as much.
kingofdacoast
Registered
All right commuta. I got my notes in front of me and I see where we are missing each other. I figured my acutal VE off of A/F and not by sensor data. I knew I was missing something when you kept saying what did I use to measure. I figured this up by the book equations of what my A/F came out to be after tuning. Do I need to explain or you follow me?
And it was 95%. Excuse my memory. Good thing i keep notes.
And it was 95%. Excuse my memory. Good thing i keep notes.
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kingofdacoast
Registered
Its really funny that everytime I get ole Toxicsprocket to talk himself into why a spraybar doesn't work better than fogging he don't want to play anymore. I knew you saw where I was going and figuered out I was right. Your silence tells on you patna. Its all good though. I'm going to leave you alone about it. My pm box tells me there are people who wants to know the truth.
Its all good though. I'm going to leave you alone about it. My pm box tells me there are people who wants to know the truth.
ToXSicK RoCKeT
Registered
Hey Gixx you have any thoughts on this subject?
ToXSicK RoCKeT
Registered
Its really funny that everytime I get ole Toxicsprocket to talk himself into why a spraybar doesn't work better than fogging he don't want to play anymore. I knew you saw where I was going and figuered out I was right. Your silence tells on you patna.
NO! The reason why kingofnothing is because, just like alot of others on here i get tired of playing Jeopardy with you
You talk in circles and just keep spinning things until you get a question you actually understand and can explain(im sure its because you cant find the correct page in your 101 books)! I KNOW FOR A FACT SPRAYBARS ARE SUPERIOR TO YOUR CRAP. Oh and BTW, i have a "few" PM's myself, there the one's that dont want to be quoted hypothetical theories and formulas that you can just google!
Gixx1300R
Registered
There are 3 particulars to engine science
VOLUMETRIC EFFICIENCY
THERMAL EFFICIENCY
MECHANICAL EFFICIENCY
As an example. If you Busa motor has a VE of 88% how can you increase it? Most of you do this without knowing it. Add a BMC filter,change the Velocity stacks and Add a full exhaust system will increase the VE. These mods allow more air into the cylinders. More air needs more fuel to maintain the correct air/fuel ratio. More air and fuel equates to more horsepower. Now other mods can be done also. Adding Cams,porting the intake and exhaust ports,largers valves will also help fill the cylinder with more air. You just cant make the ports bigger,you will lose air velocity and make less power. This is a pic of my intake cam. I had to mod the oil bypass so the lobe would'nt hit. With cams you will have lift,duration lobe seperation.
Porting the intake and exhaust helps get air in and out of the motor. This should be done smoothly. This is my combustion chamber. I installed larger valve and unshrouded them for a smoother airflow.
Thermal Efficiency can be increase by keeping as much heat in the combustion chambers as possible. Ceramic coating the pistons,valve faces,combustion chamber,exhaust port and the exhaust will raise the TE and lower engine temps. Exhaust scavenging will increase.
Mechanical Efficiency has to do with friction. Friction causes drag in internal parts,drag causes heat and premature wear. To decrease friction you can Dry film coat the piston skirts,crank and con rod bearing,tappets,wrist pins. There is a process called Mikronite which can also be done. This is my 5mm stroker crank that I had Mikronited.
I also Mikronite the Con rods,transmission gears,shift drum and Cam shafts to decrease friction. It's all pretty basic. To ensure all cylinders have equal A/F ratio you can measure the exhaust gas temps of each exhaust port to make sure all cylinders are the same. Balance is important. To calculate Volumetric Efficiency you can use a porgram Engine Analyzer, v 3.0. This chart is a calculation is the Volumetric Efficiency of the 99-07 Busa's Airbox. This was done when I designed my Ramair seals waaayy back in 2001
View attachment RamairData.jpg
VOLUMETRIC EFFICIENCY
THERMAL EFFICIENCY
MECHANICAL EFFICIENCY
As an example. If you Busa motor has a VE of 88% how can you increase it? Most of you do this without knowing it. Add a BMC filter,change the Velocity stacks and Add a full exhaust system will increase the VE. These mods allow more air into the cylinders. More air needs more fuel to maintain the correct air/fuel ratio. More air and fuel equates to more horsepower. Now other mods can be done also. Adding Cams,porting the intake and exhaust ports,largers valves will also help fill the cylinder with more air. You just cant make the ports bigger,you will lose air velocity and make less power. This is a pic of my intake cam. I had to mod the oil bypass so the lobe would'nt hit. With cams you will have lift,duration lobe seperation.
Porting the intake and exhaust helps get air in and out of the motor. This should be done smoothly. This is my combustion chamber. I installed larger valve and unshrouded them for a smoother airflow.
Thermal Efficiency can be increase by keeping as much heat in the combustion chambers as possible. Ceramic coating the pistons,valve faces,combustion chamber,exhaust port and the exhaust will raise the TE and lower engine temps. Exhaust scavenging will increase.
Mechanical Efficiency has to do with friction. Friction causes drag in internal parts,drag causes heat and premature wear. To decrease friction you can Dry film coat the piston skirts,crank and con rod bearing,tappets,wrist pins. There is a process called Mikronite which can also be done. This is my 5mm stroker crank that I had Mikronited.
I also Mikronite the Con rods,transmission gears,shift drum and Cam shafts to decrease friction. It's all pretty basic. To ensure all cylinders have equal A/F ratio you can measure the exhaust gas temps of each exhaust port to make sure all cylinders are the same. Balance is important. To calculate Volumetric Efficiency you can use a porgram Engine Analyzer, v 3.0. This chart is a calculation is the Volumetric Efficiency of the 99-07 Busa's Airbox. This was done when I designed my Ramair seals waaayy back in 2001
View attachment RamairData.jpg
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kingofdacoast
Registered
NO! The reason why kingofnothing is because, just like alot of others on here i get tired of playing Jeopardy with you
Listen. What started all this fueding was when Gixx and you made the comment that spraybars is the only way to do dry efficiently and I disagree and proved its not. You keep saying I'm quoting from books and your right. I give verifiable information that anybody can look up and aquire. All you keep saying is "it works" and you have no ideal how. When spraybars first were introduced on the market I bought them, tried them and found that they are not better than fogging a airbox. I showed you that my dry shot makes more hp than your spaybar with a smaller jet. Its all about setup and understanding. Its funny gixx doesn't post this stuff on psychobike cause he knows more than me will be picking him apart. He stays here where everyday joes who like dyno charts can praise him for doing a good job and don't do their homework. You would be surprised as to how many people on here actually agrees with me but just doesn't want to get tied into the bs. I'm going to just drop it cause I know your smart enough to see what I'm saying but just don't want to look like I proved you wrong or showed you something you really didn't think about thoroughly. I asked Gixx what was the difference between his wet kit and the one he put a picture up and he didn't answer. He wants to give half truths and promote spraybar propaganda cause the makes a living on this stuff built out of his backyard. So I'll just keep laughing and you keep cheerleading. But I will put this out, ANY stock motor busa with his spraybar got action against my 08 stock motor with my fogger kit pound for pound. Now lets see if he got the balls to take a lane and fing out the hard way.
Peace.
Gixx1300R
Registered
Listen. What started all this fueding was when Gixx and you made the comment that spraybars is the only way to do dry efficiently and I disagree and proved its not. You keep saying I'm quoting from books and your right. I give verifiable information that anybody can look up and aquire. All you keep saying is "it works" and you have no ideal how. When spraybars first were introduced on the market I bought them, tried them and found that they are not better than fogging a airbox. I showed you that my dry shot makes more hp than your spaybar with a smaller jet. Its all about setup and understanding. Its funny gixx doesn't post this stuff on psychobike cause he knows more than me will be picking him apart. He stays here where everyday joes who like dyno charts can praise him for doing a good job and don't do their homework. You would be surprised as to how many people on here actually agrees with me but just doesn't want to get tied into the bs. I'm going to just drop it cause I know your smart enough to see what I'm saying but just don't want to look like I proved you wrong or showed you something you really didn't think about thoroughly. I asked Gixx what was the difference between his wet kit and the one he put a picture up and he didn't answer. He wants to give half truths and promote spraybar propaganda cause the makes a living on this stuff built out of his backyard. So I'll just keep laughing and you keep cheerleading. But I will put this out, ANY stock motor busa with his spraybar got action against my 08 stock motor with my fogger kit pound for pound. Now lets see if he got the balls to take a lane and fing out the hard way.
Peace.
I'm a Sponser on Psychobike. Here is a post Dry Nitrous Spray Bar - Psychobike.com - Motorcycle Drag Racing Headquarters sorry but I would suggest you do a search on your own name and tell me where have you proven anything. I have never seen any pics of anything that you have installed or made. Let me show you how it's done. Ooooo look,it's a spraybar being made CNC.
Kinda hard to have CNC machines in your backyard. Wanna see another one. Here you go.
This is what they come out to be,Ramair seals
I would direct anyone that is willing to do a search on my name and your name. Just do a scan on any pics that you have posted and come up with their own conclusion. Talk is cheap and members here are starting to see you for what you really are.
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