full exhaust system install on new k8

[mynewride]

first things first we need to get the busa undressed. this means removing both sides and the front plastic behind the wheel. next you can remove both mufflers. unclamp them from the mid pipe and unbolt the holder and they slip right off.

now that she is mostly naked you can have a lookey at what lies in front of you.

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in those 2 pictures i believe the front nose piece behind the wheel is still on. it must be removed.

next you will need to remove the oil cooler lines. the line on the left side you will remove from the cooler itself. it is held in place by 2 bolts. the one on the right will be removed from the side of the block via 2 bolts. dont worry they are o-ring seals and will be reused. you will leak oil out of the lines, so be prepared to catch it with a small container.

in the following 2 pictures you will see highlighted areas. those are areas where you will find the oil line bolts and mounting bolts for the cooler itself.

left side oil line and oil cooler mounting bolt
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right side oil line and mounting bolts
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after you have removed the oil lines you can remove the one lower bolt seen in pic 2 and the 2 upper bolts barely visible in both pictures. once those 3 bolts have been removed the cooler is free to come out. be careful as oil will continue to leak untill it is empty. Once the cooler is off, remove the lower bracket that held the cooler from the engine block. It is held on by 2 bolts.

now is a good time to switch to full synthetic oil if you have not already done so.

next you will need to unplug the power supply to the electric fans. there is one for each fan. one on left side and right side.

left side fan
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fan right side.
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with the fans unplugged you can now unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the radiator. i left my hoses attached and just lowered it down to the ground carefully behind the front tire. sorry no picture.

now you can start unbolting the stock headers. start by removing the rear mount underneath the bike near the rear shock. next remove the header bolts being careful to have a hand available to catch them in case they fall. mine required a little wiggle to free them from the head. now that they are free carefully remove them as not to damage the left oil cooler line or the radiator hoses.

now that the stock exhaust is removed you can start to install the new system. i turned around the copper exhaust gaskets in the head and reused them. no need to waste money.

 

[mynewride]

i Pre assembled the headers and collector to make the install easy. i also used permatex ultra copper on the header flanges.

i first pre-assembled the collector onto the 2 header pieces wd-40 works great to aid in assembly. next i applied a small layer of permatex ultra copper to the inside of the header tubes and installed the header flanges trying to place the bolt holes as close to their mounting position as possible. be sure to wipe away any excess permatex.

collector assembly:
View attachment 1510671

flange assembly:
View attachment 1510672

you are now ready to install headers onto bike. once in place adjust the flanges to line up with bolt holes in cylinder head. now install all the bolts loosely. slowly and evenly tighten up the bolts on each tube. once all tubes are tight recheck all tubes. now install the header springs.

header install

next install mid-pipe and muffler. once they are mounted you can check for clearances and install the rest of the springs.

now all you have to do is reinstall the radiator and oil cooler. be sure not to forget the lower oil cooler bracket.

now check for clearances on oil cooler lines. if you must they can be slightly adjusted to give 1/16th inch clearance as that is all that is needed. (my bike needed no adjustment as there was plenty of clearance.

before installing the plastics be sure to wipe all surfaces of the exhaust off with alcohol to remove any oil from your fingers or oil cooler install.

installed
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finally reinstall plastics carfully. BEFORE YOU START THE BIKE! AGAIN BEFORE YOU START THE BIKE! CHECK ALL PIPES FOR AT LEAST 1/4 INCH CLEARANCE FROM PLASTICS OR PERMANENT DAMAGE WILL OCCUR. please please double check this.

once all is double and triple checked you can start the bike. do not rev. allow to run for 30 sec and check the oil. if it is low add till full. now restart the bike. it is common for the pipes to smoke at first while the treatment of the steel tubes burns off.

finished product:
View attachment 1510679

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enjoy your new tunes!!!!

 

[teamorion22]

cool

 

[StromBusa]

Nice....I hope you can sneak the oil filter out of there.

 

[Ezduzit]

and you got the fastest color!

 

[semperfi]

I may just try it myself. Thanks.

 

[B@DA$$08BUS@]

Dude, Thanks for all the pics and info , I just got my Black ceramic coated AH Brocks today! I am so stoked, but gotta worry about moving stuff to my new haus before i can work on bike!!!!! the crappy part is I cant even ride the busa cause have no exhaust on it at all!!!!!!

first things first we need to get the busa undressed. this means removing both sides and the front plastic behind the wheel. next you can remove both mufflers. unclamp them from the mid pipe and unbolt the holder and they slip right off.

now that she is mostly naked you can have a lookey at what lies in front of you.

in those 2 pictures i believe the front nose piece behind the wheel is still on. it must be removed.

next you will need to remove the oil cooler lines. the line on the left side you will remove from the cooler itself. it is held in place by 2 bolts. the one on the right will be removed from the side of the block via 2 bolts. dont worry they are o-ring seals and will be reused. you will leak oil out of the lines, so be prepared to catch it with a small container.

in the following 2 pictures you will see highlighted areas. those are areas where you will find the oil line bolts and mounting bolts for the cooler itself.

left side oil line and oil cooler mounting bolt

right side oil line and mounting bolts

after you have removed the oil lines you can remove the one lower bolt seen in pic 2 and the 2 upper bolts barely visible in both pictures. once those 3 bolts have been removed the cooler is free to come out. be careful as oil will continue to leak untill it is empty. Once the cooler is off, remove the lower bracket that held the cooler from the engine block. It is held on by 2 bolts.

now is a good time to switch to full synthetic oil if you have not already done so.

next you will need to unplug the power supply to the electric fans. there is one for each fan. one on left side and right side.

left side fan

fan right side.

with the fans unplugged you can now unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the radiator. i left my hoses attached and just lowered it down to the ground carefully behind the front tire. sorry no picture.

now you can start unbolting the stock headers. start by removing the rear mount underneath the bike near the rear shock. next remove the header bolts being careful to have a hand available to catch them in case they fall. mine required a little wiggle to free them from the head. now that they are free carefully remove them as not to damage the left oil cooler line or the radiator hoses.

now that the stock exhaust is removed you can start to install the new system. i turned around the copper exhaust gaskets in the head and reused them. no need to waste money.

 

[mynewride]

Nice....I hope you can sneak the oil filter out of there.

no problem, i put it on after i installed the pipes.

 

[mynewride]

this really is a piece of cake. if you can change the oil you can install headers. i could prolly do it in 2hrs flat now that ive done it once. maybe even less. good luck bada$$busa